LMS Mill

I used automotive shims like they use to set plug gap. Can be gotten at any auto place and they vary in thickness from .0005 to .05 I think
 
Just ordered mine, along with the air spring. :D

So, how much are you guys having to shim the column?
 
We have the same mill. When it just sat on the bench fastened to a 1 1/2 of wood for a stable base I trammed it and shimmed it to correct. Then we got heavy benches from the plant my son was working at and I put 3/4" plywood on top of them to dress them up a bit. We moved the mill to this bench and I fastened it down to the top of the bench. I have bolts that go completely through the top. When I went to re-tram the mill it had changed from old bench to the other. I found that depending on the tightness of each bolt holding the base to the bench it twisted the base causing the squareness to change. My suggestion would be if you fasten it down do so than tram.

So far the mill has performed flawlessly since we got it. We did install the air spring kit because the spring support that is on it does not do a good job. Also we built a power feed for it which is great for larger parts and smoother milling finish. The other thing is adding DROs to it which you should be able to do for about $120 for all three axis.
I found binding on the tables at certain locations and needed to lap the dovetail joint and jib which greatly improved the movement in the x and y.
The fine adjustment on the Z can be made smoother, easier to turn by aligning the linkage that comes out to the knob. I added another block on that linkage to keep the linkage in alignment because when you try to fine adjust the linkage tends to want to move out of alignment causing more friction in the rotation.

I have more little tweaks I did but I'll have to think about it.

Did you get a rotary table, 3" chuck for the rotary table and dividing plate for it? You may want to invest in this also.

Let us know how yours works out.

Have a great day!

Ed
 
wrmiller,
I only had to add a few thousand I think that it would change if i took all the mounting bolts out and re tightend them. I believe it is more of a base flex than column to base mounting issue. But to try to tram it from there would take a lot of trial and error.
 
Would I be better off bolting this thing to 1/2" plate steel or aluminum instead of wood?
 
I do not think it will matter as long as you have a good thick wood top. I'm on 3/4" hard press shelve board, but it rests across 1/4x2x2 L that the mill is throgh bolted to. I built the stand to fit.
 
On our mill what I was trying to point out was, and I guess this is true with any machine, once it is in place to then adjust it. Once it is trammed leave it be. I would however definitely fasten it down. We had ours mounted to a 2' x 2' piece of wood and it would walk across the bench depending what was being milled. I didn't fasten it down but added rubber feet to the board and then it stayed in place. Now since we moved it it is fastened down. Now it is bolted through 3/4" plywood setting on top of a bench that has a 1/4" plate steel top. The top was in rough shape that is why we covered it. :nuts::nuts:


IMG_2136.JPG

Ed

IMG_2136.JPG
 
I'm fixing to get the same 3960 mill in a couple months, except I'm getting the precision tool package (item #4722).

Couple of questions:

1. Where are you guys getting the "air brake" kit? I'm not seeing it on the LMS website.

2. LMS doesn't seem to sell a stand appropriate for this mill. I want a dedicated stand similar to the base under the PM machines HERE. Anyone have recommendations?

3. Lastly, I will probably get a rotary table. How does the LMS rotary table's (not the Tormach) build quality compare with the Sherline?

Thanks in advance...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top