Lead Me Down The Right Path (New Motor)

You should use flexible stranded wire, I would not recommend solid wire in a vibration environment. You also do not want loose cables between the motor and the enclosure, a single electrical cable is easier then flexible conduit with separate wires. The motor electrical boxes are typically removable, they have screws go into the motor body. Just be aware that the NEMA 1 VFD's are open for cooling so you do not want chips falling in from the top. If you mount it on the side, I would put a chip shield 2-3" above the VFD.
yes.. i am planning on some kind of shield for it
 
You should use flexible stranded wire, I would not recommend solid wire in a vibration environment. You also do not want loose cables between the motor and the enclosure, a single electrical cable is easier then flexible conduit with separate wires. The motor electrical boxes are typically removable, they have screws go into the motor body. Just be aware that the NEMA 1 VFD's are open for cooling so you do not want chips falling in from the top. If you mount it on the side, I would put a chip shield 2-3" above the VFD.
thanks for that..
 
i am getting the feeling that i will have to pull all of this out.. the power switch has a feature that if it isn't getting enough power.. it will shut the machine off.. would this make a difference with going from 440v to 220v 3ph?1644365028891.png
 
Check your contactor coil voltages and make sure that you don't have a 'heater' and electrical overload that is set for 440V. If so you have some replacin' to do.
 
Check your contactor coil voltages and make sure that you don't have a 'heater' and electrical overload that is set for 440V. If so you have some replacin' to do.
well the motor was a single voltage 440v, so with what you are saying there.. the chances of that are high.. yes?
 
Check your contactor coil voltages and make sure that you don't have a 'heater' and electrical overload that is set for 440V. If so you have some replacin' to do.
oh and i am going to ask you the stupid question.. how do you do that..
 
Likely all the controls are 120V with a small transformer in the electrical box. That or 24V. both are common. You use a digital volt meter to measure the coil voltage on one of the contactors: 90% they will all be the same.

how do you do that..

There are so many designs of overload heaters - you need a protection in your electrical box, and you can use a conventional DIN mounted breaker to do the same thing. If you have a circuit diagram, it will show as a pass-through sircuit thta seems to have no function. that is the overload.

These 'heater' circuits were popular up to the 1950s, when breakers became cheaper and more reliable.
 
Likely all the controls are 120V with a small transformer in the electrical box. That or 24V. both are common. You use a digital volt meter to measure the coil voltage on one of the contactors: 90% they will all be the same.



There are so many designs of overload heaters - you need a protection in your electrical box, and you can use a conventional DIN mounted breaker to do the same thing. If you have a circuit diagram, it will show as a pass-through sircuit thta seems to have no function. that is the overload.

These 'heater' circuits were popular up to the 1950s, when breakers became cheaper and more reliable.
This is the inside of the box above the motor.
Power Box.jpeg
This is the schematic on the door.. i will admit.. i have no clue what i am looking at there
Wiring Schmatic.jpeg
This Square D box above the power switch, can i presume that this is the "overload" protector?
Square D Switch.jpeg
This is the switch that tells the motor i presume which direction and speed it goes.

Motor Speed Selector.jpeg

and just to the right of that is this

Seimens switch.jpeg
Emco Super 11.jpeg
The "Red" Switch is the power
The "Black"Switch is the speed and direction switch

And as you can see, there are three of these in there

One of three switches.jpeg


As for these two white things.. i don't know what they are
IMG_4446.jpeg
 
And from what i can see, if one of those goes.. i can't get a replacement.. so it is looking like we need to find a alternative to those bottle fuses..
 
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