Is there anyway to fix this razor top?

[WobblyHand]

My concern would be if it pulled out once, it will again. But not much to lose trying.

I agree, but hey, it might work a little while. The original lasted 11 years. These caps are not expensive, IF I can get a replacement, they cost about $9.00. Waiting to hear from Merkur, if the replacement head will fit my razor.

 

[Ken226]

Regarding soldering Zamak, Zamak melts at around 750ºF, well above the m.p. of common solders. Providing you can get the Zamak surface tinned and control the soldering temperature, solder might be a choice for bonding.

I'm not sure if it was a normal Zamak, but it melted at a surprisingly low temp. Someone told me it was Zamak, but that could have been a guess.

 

[great white]

Replace it. Not worth the trouble to repair that kind of failure IMHO.

I use vintage Gillette safety razors with pol-silver blades myself, with my 1950’s “fat boy” a regular favorite.

 

[WobblyHand]

Replace it. Not worth the trouble to repair that kind of failure IMHO.

I use vintage Gillette safety razors with pol-silver blades myself, with my 1950’s “fat boy” a regular favorite.

Hoping to replace it, if I can find the part. None of these places actually give you dimensions or drawings of things, so you are guessing if they will actually fit. Haven't found a cross reference of my model number with the listed replacement parts.

 

[Ken226]

Different razors like different blades.

Like @great white said, my aggressive gillette tech is great with Wilkinson blades, but butchers me with the hyper sharp feather blades.

My really mild ASD2 is wonderful with feather blades, but near useless with the Wilkinson blades.

The cool thing about the Rockwell, if I remember right, is that the middle part is reversible. It has a mild side and an aggressive side. I could be remembering that wrong though.

 

[pdentrem]

The handle was in place with the top cast around it. As for repair, is it worth it? Drill and small bolt/ screw into the handle.
Pierre

 

[Janderso]

I started using safety razors about 20 years ago. I got tired of buying Atra blades.
I use Feather brand blades. =Super sharp.

sorry, i don't have any suggestions as to how to fix the razor, but
i tried to use a similar style razor a few years ago.
for the life of me i can't figure out how folks didn't bleed to death regularly- i cut the crap out of myself

I don't know why but when you first use them they do seem to be a bit scary. I remember my face felt like a few layers of skin had been removed.
It didn't take long before the experience was just like using a typical Atra or similar razor.
The best part of this method is quality blades run about 20 cents vs $$$$$!!!!!
The blades last a week for me. $.80 cents a month, not bad.

 

[WobblyHand]

The handle was in place with the top cast around it. As for repair, is it worth it? Drill and small bolt/ screw into the handle.
Pierre

May get there, if / when the epoxy fails.

 

[Janderso]

My really mild ASD2 is wonderful with feather blades, but near useless with the Wilkinson blades.

Ineresting, I tried a bunch of different blades. When I tried Feather brand, I've been using them over twenty years.
I had the same experience with Wilkinson.
I use Merkur and feather.
The old Gillette was found at an antiques store. I paid $5. It still works. It has obviously been used
I wonder if it was dipped in order to refinish with nickel??

 

[Janderso]

I've been using this Merkur razor Model 180 since 2011. This morning, when unthreading the handle to replace the razor blade, the stud sheared off the top cap of the razor rendering it inoperable. Is there anyway to save it? I think the piece is die cast zinc which is chrome plated. Not sure how the stud was originally attached. Can't tell if it was just a pressed fit or epoxy. Perhaps someone can tell from the pictures. The stud is M5 and about 10mm long. Epoxy the screw back on? It is curious to me the head is slotted.
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It turns out Merkur sells replacement parts. But I didn't see my model listed on their site. I did send them a message and showed pictures. Hopefully they will respond. Their website doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy, since they seem to be out of stock on most of their product line.

Pretty sure carving out a replacement cap in stainless steel would be a non-trivial undertaking. However, for the last 15 minutes I have been thinking about it... Guess one could press fit the guide pins in, as they are not heavily loaded. Maybe one could braze the stud to the cap. Properly brazed, that stud would never pull out. Could then use the stud to hold down the part onto a special mandrel. Then could somehow machine the cylindrical surface. I measured the chord to be about 19mm long and 3mm high, which gives a radius of 16.5mm. That is roughly 1.25" stock. So I could use 1.25" stock to make the mandrel. The stainless would only need to be a piece 0.5" x 1" x 1.6". Reading about stainless suggests one needs L, for low carbon, if one is brazing.

Come on man. $$30 is all it takes to get you back on the road to a clean shave

https://www.amazon.com/Merkur-Mk34c-Double-Razor-Handle/dp/B002A8JO1Q