I got flashed tonight.

As far as I know the sensitivity adjustment on the HF / PA helmets works best at its highest setting, and leaving it in the sun once should be alright for quite a while,.
I have had two HF type , accouple of lower end Lincoln helmets and they all performed equally well, the Lincoln did benefit being in the sun for a couple of hours but once only and it was fine for the next2-3 years but I was using it 2-3 times a week though.
If there's an issue other than setting to the correct sensitivity, then its time to return the helmet. I would also check if there's a new battery in it .

Where I worked my last job the company offered to buy Speedglas hoods for us and take off $50 per paycheck until it was paid in full.I got one and wow, it was(and still is) a pleasure to use, light weight, comfortable, responsive to each level of sensitivity, and very expensive but to this day it has been my "go to" helmet .
 
Do the helmets need sun for charging or will the light from welding charge them?
I did not see anything in any instructions about needing sunlight for my helmet to work. I have to believe that a few seconds of ARC is equivalent to hours of sunlight but that is just a guess. David's issue may still be battery or power related but I think more likely it was
1. Settings (sensitivity)
2. Defective in some way
3. Blocked Sensors or combination of partially blocked sensors and sensitivity settings

Hopefully David will never get another opportunity to troubleshoot this problem.
 
It is interesting that David's problem cropped up when he had been welding for a while and disappeared after the helmet was outside for a day. My experienced friend with the same helmet makes a practice of setting his outside prior to a session. I am a complete newbie and am a very occasional user so I can't say one way or the other, just reporting what my friend does.

One of the really high end helmets would be great but I could never justify its cost as little as I use one. I expect I will follow my friends practice of sitting it outside. Constant sunlight for a while would likely impart more of a charge than the relatively short duration flash while welding. Also remember that the electronics are activated and drawing battery power while in use.
 
Last edited:
I did not see anything in any instructions about needing sunlight for my helmet to work. I have to believe that a few seconds of ARC is equivalent to hours of sunlight but that is just a guess. David's issue may still be battery or power related but I think more likely it was
1. Settings (sensitivity)
2. Defective in some way
3. Blocked Sensors or combination of partially blocked sensors and sensitivity settings

Hopefully David will never get another opportunity to troubleshoot this problem.
I believe it was a setting issue possibly combined with a low battery. It is a brand new helmet and I have no idea if they get any pre-charge before being boxed up.
Last night I was practicing some 65 A pulsing and I noticed that even on maximum sensitivity it will go clear on the downslope of the pulse.
 
Looking at the Sun is not a functional test for some autodarkening hoods. Many don't trigger on ABSOLUTE light level, otherwise you would have trouble starting a bead while standing in full sunlight. Instead, the sensors look for a sharp and sudden change in brightness (like an Arc starting). Many of them will only go dark for a split second, when you have them pointed completely away from the Sun, and suddenly point it at the Sun (such as many Hobart AD hoods). Your "delay control" sets how long it stays dark after the sudden change in brightness has happened. This setting allows for you to have brief interruptions in your weld without the hood going to un-darkened.
 
You just got a bright spot - not the same as actual "arc eye" flash. This is because an auto dark lense blocks 100% UV and IR regardless of whether it's triggered or not. Intense visible light is not great for your eyes, but not damaging like getting blasted with full IR and UV which actually gives you burns.
Thanks for posting this. I just got a good scare tonight: my Lincoln Viking 3350 started to occasionally shut off a second after striking an arc. After the 3rd time I figured it wasn't a fluke. :oops: I was worried I'd get the dreaded arc eye.

Kinda annoyed; its only about 3 months old and I'd guess less than 2 hours of total arc time. Reproduces on the bench out of the helmet:

 
Did you change the battery, one of my helmets did that, it may have been on the shelf awhile before it sold.
 
Yep, set of batteries. Tip from many owners (myself included - I have the exact same hood) is to store it out of the bag so it's solar powered rather than draining the batteries. I've had mine over 2 years and been solid as a rock.

Worth knowing that any decent safety glasses will ward off the worst of arc eye, also blocking UV and IR should you be unlucky enough to get flashed with hood up. Not something to rely on entirely, but a nice bit of extra protection.
 
Did you change the battery, one of my helmets did that, it may have been on the shelf awhile before it sold.

I recently got a Lincoln 3350, and the battery it came with was completely dead so definitely worth checking that you have a good battery before striking an arc.
 
Did you change the battery, one of my helmets did that, it may have been on the shelf awhile before it sold.
Yep, one of the first things I tried. The first battery did test OK (3.01v), new was 3.20v. Even with the old battery and no light supply (arc), I can hold the test button for a long time and it stays dark perfectly fine.

@Lo-Fi - I'm pretty sure the solar power is only to power the lens w/ ambient or arc light, not to charge the battery. I don't think these button cell batteries are rechargeable but there as a backup power supply. But that said: yes, if for some reason the lens is switching on randomly: being out of the bag will usually mean it would be using solar vs the battery.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top