Goofs & Blunders You Should Avoid.

pinkpanda3310 said:
Sounds like my advice was incorrect, apologies. Going by what these guys are saying - slow feed rate with super slow cutting speed and coolant. Everything to keep the heat down. I'll try remember that next time I'm cutting it myself
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I don't know if it's "the right way", but I've had the best results with fine slitting saws to just run them gently and let the saw do the work, rather than pushing it through the cut. I try not to deform the blade from over feeding or overload the tiny teeth. An HSS blade is a lot like a hacksaw blade, and not very tolerant of high speeds in my mind. So, in the interest of keeping the line of cut straight and the kerf tight, I let it eat slow and easy, and watch the crumbs pile up at the exit. The added bonus is the blade lasts a long time, too.
 
pontiac428 said:
I don't know if it's "the right way", but I've had the best results with fine slitting saws to just run them gently and let the saw do the work, rather than pushing it through the cut. I try not to deform the blade from over feeding or overload the tiny teeth. An HSS blade is a lot like a hacksaw blade, and not very tolerant of high speeds in my mind. So, in the interest of keeping the line of cut straight and the kerf tight, I let it eat slow and easy, and watch the crumbs pile up at the exit. The added bonus is the blade lasts a long time, too.
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I rotate at 450 to 500 RPM but if.... I use the feed it'll be as slow as it will move, normally I manually feed them so I can feel the resistance....
 
Don't, Do Not, Do never lose sight of what your vise stop is doing because you're so into making your part.

Dont know how or when, but I walked in to find this this am.


IMG_3944[1].JPG
 
woodchucker said:
oh, that can't be good.
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I actually got a bit excited as I made some mistakes when I originally made it and found a reason to finally correct them.

Fortunately/unfortunately it just ripped the threads out of the bar that attaches to the vise so I lopped the end off and squared it up and its as bad as it ever was.

I should have just unscrewed it and taken it off, but I've taken this gamble before without incident.

Just one more battle scar.
 
Working on the lathe, just bored a 0.625 hole through the center of my workpiece; want to make a shallow counter-bore 1.000 diameter, 0.100 deep. So starting from the existing bore, just add 0.375 to get 1.000 and go from there, right? No DRO so set up dial indicators for both the carriage and the cross-slide, and away we go!

Ummm, did you know that bringing your boring bar out 0.375 from a 0.625 hole yields a counter-bore of 1.250, not 1.000..... ?

Diameters, Radii... classic "rookie" goof
 
GreyhawkUSA30340 said:
Working on the lathe, just bored a 0.625 hole through the center of my workpiece; want to make a shallow counter-bore 1.000 diameter, 0.100 deep. So starting from the existing bore, just add 0.375 to get 1.000 and go from there, right? No DRO so set up dial indicators for both the carriage and the cross-slide, and away we go!

Ummm, did you know that bringing your boring bar out 0.375 from a 0.625 hole yields a counter-bore of 1.250, not 1.000..... ?

Diameters, Radii... classic "rookie" goof
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It should be 1.375".
 
GreyhawkUSA30340 said:
Working on the lathe, just bored a 0.625 hole through the center of my workpiece; want to make a shallow counter-bore 1.000 diameter, 0.100 deep. So starting from the existing bore, just add 0.375 to get 1.000 and go from there, right? No DRO so set up dial indicators for both the carriage and the cross-slide, and away we go!

Ummm, did you know that bringing your boring bar out 0.375 from a 0.625 hole yields a counter-bore of 1.250, not 1.000..... ?

Diameters, Radii... classic "rookie" goof
Click to expand...
Goes along with "never make your ID larger than your OD."
 
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