G4003 clone, motor won’t reverse.

[Jbrracer]

Darn, that's what I was afraid of- one of the contactors is not working properly. You should have had 240 in all cases
for the tests in post #30
This is looking like a big job- you sure you want to spend the time and money to fix it? It would be far easier (and cheaper) to hook up a drum switch

Unfortunately it’s not the contactor or not only the contactor. just replaced it and it still is all the same scenario.

 

[markba633csi]

The one labeled "MS" is probably ok since you had one good mode. It's going to be either MS1 or MS2. If you replaced MS1 then MS2 was the bad one. If you replaced MS2 then MS1 was the bad one.
It's best to pinpoint the problem before replacing parts as it can get time consuming (not to mention expensive)

 

[Jbrracer]

The one labeled "MS" is probably ok since you had one good mode. It's going to be either MS1 or MS2. If you replaced MS1 then MS2 was the bad one. If you replaced MS2 then MS1 was the bad one.
It's best to pinpoint the problem before replacing parts as it can get time consuming (not to mention expensive)

I replaced the correct one, one draws down for each spindle direction.

 

[markba633csi]

MS is common to both forward and reverse so since you had one mode working that one must be ok.
MS1 and 2 are the forward and reverse contactors. So either one of those was defective/miswired or one of the coils was not getting power


On the MS1 and 2 contactors the power comes in at the top and out at the bottom so you would need to probe with your meter on AC volts and see which one is not showing voltage on all the bottom U and V and Z terminals when energized

It's possible the problem is just a corroded or broken wire or loose terminal screw- that's why you want to pinpoint the problem first with your voltmeter.
Especially important when you are working without a schematic diagram

 

[Jbrracer]

MS is common to both forward and reverse so since you had one mode working that one must be ok.
MS1 and 2 are the forward and reverse contactors. So either one of those was defective/miswired or one of the coils was not getting power


On the MS1 and 2 contactors the power comes in at the top and out at the bottom so you would need to probe with your meter on AC volts and see which one is not showing voltage on all the bottom U and V and Z terminals when energized

It's possible the problem is just a corroded or broken wire or loose terminal screw- that's why you want to pinpoint the problem first with your voltmeter.
Especially important when you are working without a schematic diagram

Mark I broke down and got a drum switch, now I’m more lost than before.

Any chance you could help me get it going that way with the six wire motor? It’s a 6 contact drum switch three on each side forward and reverse.

 

[markba633csi]

You should have asked me which switch to buy first. Show me the diagram of the switch you bought- if you don't have one you'll need to buzz it out with your meter
Also show me a picture of the switch- there are dozens of types

 

[Jbrracer]

Thanks again!

 

[markba633csi]

That'll work- give me a little while and I'll post a sketch
Here you go: ----- if the motor direction doesn't match switch handle move wire from drum 3 to drum 2, OR swap motor wires 1 and 2

 

[markba633csi]

Remember that capacitor-start motors like these need to come to nearly a full stop before you can reverse it. For example if you throw the drum switch quickly from forward to reverse the motor will just continue running in forward.
You lose the E-stop feature with a drum switch, one of the reasons they use contactors

 

[Jbrracer]

You’re amazing thanks for everything mark, if you ever need anything PM me. Thank you thank you thank you.