G4003 clone, motor won’t reverse.

[Jbrracer]

OK then this is how it should be wired:
You might want to disconnect and ring out the main windings 1-2 and 3-4 with your ohmmeter which would clear up the 3' confusion
Be sure to insulate (tape) the unused Z2 wire
View attachment 436745

this diagram is how it’s wired as is, I’ve swapped 3 and 3^1 and then it doesn’t run either direction, just buck/hums.

When I disconnected the motor and tested voltage at the supply side, the counter clockwise working direction had
u1 to v2 =110
u1 to z1 =110
V2 to z1=220
V2 to z1= open

In the clockwise direction I tested
U1 to v2 = 110
U1 to z1= 110
U1 to z1= 220
V2 to z1= 220

I think this is where im having issues because z2 becomes hot when the carriage lever is flipped to the clockwise direction. But I most certainly could be wrong.

 

[Jbrracer]

Maybe if you could, do a diagram of all new wiring to three new contactors with my “used” motor?

 

[markba633csi]

Hmm, that's a puzzle. You shouldn't be getting 110 volt readings at all with the motor disconnected. Should be 220 (240) or 0 (between wires)
I'm wondering if you have a problem with your house power or your neutral is floating or something else like a bad contactor?
I'm afraid I can't give you a diagram to re-wire your control box, that's asking too much. We should be able to troubleshoot it though
You need to proceed cautiously here because you might have a potential hot chassis situation- don't want to get shocked or worse
-M
ps in post 11 you give conflicting readings- U1 to z1 = 110 then U1 to z1 =220
You need to proofread/edit your posts carefully

It sounds suspiciously like a ground problem- you mentioned a black ground wire at the motor, that raises a red flag for me-
Another thing I noticed, in the control box it looks like there are two fuseholders but one is missing a top?
Have you considered changing over to a 3-phase motor and VFD?

 

[markba633csi]

Another possibility is using a drum switch to control the motor and tossing the contactor system

 

[Jbrracer]

Hmm, that's a puzzle. You shouldn't be getting 110 volt readings at all with the motor disconnected. Should be 220 (240) or 0 (between wires)
I'm wondering if you have a problem with your house power or your neutral is floating or something else like a bad contactor?
I'm afraid I can't give you a diagram to re-wire your control box, that's asking too much. We should be able to troubleshoot it though
You need to proceed cautiously here because you might have a potential hot chassis situation- don't want to get shocked or worse
-M
ps in post 11 you give conflicting readings- U1 to z1 = 110 then U1 to z1 =220
You need to proofread/edit your posts carefully

It sounds suspiciously like a ground problem- you mentioned a black ground wire at the motor, that raises a red flag for me-
Another thing I noticed, in the control box it looks like there are two fuseholders but one is missing a top?
Have you considered changing over to a 3-phase motor and VFD?

I edited post 11 with the corrected info, I don’t think I’m having a supply issue. My stove dryer water heater and Bridgeport all seem to run fine. I checked for power though the machine chassis before I ever touched it never know with used equipment!

 

[Provincial]

I have a Metal Max 13x40 lathe. It is identical to a Jet 1340PBD but made in China instead of Taiwan. It seems that the Jet lathes of that time period (late 1980's to early 2000's) had a tendency to burn up the single phase motors. I purchased my lathe from the original owner, who bought it in the early 2000's, and he said the motor burned up almost immediately. It would cost too much for a new motor, so he just let the lathe sit. I am converting it to a VFD and 3 phase motor.

Your motor control box appears to be almost identical to the original one on my lathe. I believe that the control box is an integral part of the start system and may be linked to your problem. There is some discussion on the internet about this. The Jet PBD, BD1340R, and BD1340T are very similar, but the BD1340R does not have the reversing switch controlled by the carriage.

I find the foreign wiring diagrams difficult to understand, but if the one from my manual will help, I can post it.

 

[markba633csi]

You may have a broken contactor or someone has been messing about in there.
So, in forward and reverse both you should be seeing 220v between U and V and also between the Zs
You might want to go around the contactor terminal screws and give them all a tighten (with power plug pulled)
Then test again- being very careful
Is there a ground wire from the motor to the box? I don't see one
ps still errors in post 11, clockwise direction

 

[Jbrracer]

Another possibility is using a drum switch to control the motor and tossing the contactor system

I’ve done some swapping and testing this is driving me crazy that I can’t figure it out.

In this configuration placing the carriage lever down the spindle spins toward the tool post.
T1=3 t2=1,5 t3=nc t4=346
B1=u1 b2=v2 b3=nc b4=nc

In this configuration with the lever also down the spindle turns away from the tool post.
T1=3,5 t2=1 t3=nc t4=346
B1=u1 b2=v2 b3=nc b4=nc

So I suppose that 5 switches the spindle direction, and I’m guessing if I swap the contactor power with the other contactor power I would have the same condition in the lever up position.

I also took some voltages while all the lathe wires were disconnected
With the lever down all wires other than Z2 are hot
With the lever up all the wires are hot other than U1.

I’ve got all the ingredients just need to figure out how to build the sandwich.

 

[Jbrracer]

I have a Metal Max 13x40 lathe. It is identical to a Jet 1340PBD but made in China instead of Taiwan. It seems that the Jet lathes of that time period (late 1980's to early 2000's) had a tendency to burn up the single phase motors. I purchased my lathe from the original owner, who bought it in the early 2000's, and he said the motor burned up almost immediately. It would cost too much for a new motor, so he just let the lathe sit. I am converting it to a VFD and 3 phase motor.

Your motor control box appears to be almost identical to the original one on my lathe. I believe that the control box is an integral part of the start system and may be linked to your problem. There is some discussion on the internet about this. The Jet PBD, BD1340R, and BD1340T are very similar, but the BD1340R does not have the reversing switch controlled by the carriage.

I find the foreign wiring diagrams difficult to understand, but if the one from my manual will help, I can post it.

I would be grateful for any assistance do you want my email via PM?

 

[Jbrracer]

You may have a broken contactor or someone has been messing about in there.
So, in forward and reverse both you should be seeing 220v between U and V and also between the Zs
You might want to go around the contactor terminal screws and give them all a tighten (with power plug pulled)
Then test again- being very careful
Is there a ground wire from the motor to the box? I don't see one
ps still errors in post 11, clockwise direction

Yes there is a ground wire from motor box to lathe box. I think I have all the power just need to figure out what goes to what but I will give it a try.