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Feedback on first lathe - 8x14 600W variable speed lathe CJ210A
- Thread starter wachuko
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- Aug 6, 2015
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Do not take this the wrong way, but why? All the feedback that I read on those is that they are overrated and overpriced for what they are... and small. There might be a certain nostalgia with older equipment, but from what I read those were not great when new so why would they be good now? Of course, I am clueless, a newbie, basing all this in google searches and YouTube videos... I know squat about them. So please pardon my ignorant comments.
Here are a few links to sites dedicated to them:
Atlas618lathe groups.io Group
A group dedicated to owners of the Atlas (and Sears Craftsman 101) 618 lathe and the newer Mark 2 lathe. Your questions, tips, comments, and lathe and project photographs are welcomed. Extensive file and picture sections now have space for members' for sale and wanted to buy items. This group...
groups.io
These Atlas 618 lathes are going for anywhere 600.00 to over 1,849.00!!
I really do not want a used unit. Too many unknowns. I would have to spend time figuring out if the darn thing is missing something... or if it requires fixing something that is broken or worn out due to use/abuse. I know that for some, this is part of the fun... not for me. I want to be responsible for screwing up my new lathe
, not trying to fix someone's else.
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If it were me I would go with the Grizzly simply because any issues might be easier to deal with as compared to a faceless eBay retailer.
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Last edited:
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- Nov 14, 2016
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- 3,001
A 6" Atlas is comparable in capacity to a 7 or 8" mini-lathe, so if the price was right that would certainly be an option. Around here the price is rarely right unless it is in project condition. I see the same with people recommending Unimats. At one time those were probably realistic options, but the prices on some of the small vintage lathes has shot up out of proportion to their actual utility and there is now a much larger variety of decent (and often relatively cheap) small lathes available.
You really want to take a look at what you expect a lathe to do for you. The size of the lathe is a bit misleading, the stated size on many of the Chinese mini-lathes even more so (most are 2" shorter in length than the stated size for some reason).
Sorry if this is too basic for you but I don't know what you know. 7x14 (or whatever) is the swing (diameter of material) and length of material that can be turned between centers. So a 7x14 can theoretically turn a piece of material 7" in diameter by 14" long, but it reality much smaller. That size relates to turning between centers and most hobby work is not done between centers, it usually done using a chuck or collets.
The nominal chuck size used on a lathe is generally around 50% of the swing. A 6" to 9" swing lathe is often found with a 3" to 4" chuck on them so in practical terms there may be a lot less difference between them than you would assume. At the larger end you may find a 9" lathe fitted with a 5" chuck which would be impractical on the smaller lathes. Collets are much smaller. typically 1 to 1-1/2" material so not going to make much difference whether used on a 6" or 12" lathe (excepting spindle bore).
The length will be quickly used up for some operations like drilling or boring a hole. Any lathe with less than 12" between centers is very much at risk of being too short to drill a hole if you assume 2-3" for the lathe chuck, 3" for a drill chuck and 3" for a drill bit, then at 12" you are only left with 3-4" for your part and some space to work.
I think we have all been there on the realistic budget vs having something to use right now. It is worth holding out until you can budget for something that will work for you.
Mini-lathes can be utterly worthless if your work is too big for them, but they are good machines within their limited capacity. Based on the kind of work, I am assuming you will want to do, I'd think a 9x19 or 10x22 lathe would be more satisfying for you than an 8x16 or smaller. Still small enough to mount on a bench top and a 10x22 can just barely be moved by 2 strong people (300lbs-ish). Many of the 9 and 10" lathes also include a quick change gear box which makes threading parts easier.
Just so you understand my perspective, I started out with a very small 3.5x17" lathe which I still use, but I have added a 10x24 lathe to handle the larger projects I found I also wanted to work on.
You really want to take a look at what you expect a lathe to do for you. The size of the lathe is a bit misleading, the stated size on many of the Chinese mini-lathes even more so (most are 2" shorter in length than the stated size for some reason).
Sorry if this is too basic for you but I don't know what you know. 7x14 (or whatever) is the swing (diameter of material) and length of material that can be turned between centers. So a 7x14 can theoretically turn a piece of material 7" in diameter by 14" long, but it reality much smaller. That size relates to turning between centers and most hobby work is not done between centers, it usually done using a chuck or collets.
The nominal chuck size used on a lathe is generally around 50% of the swing. A 6" to 9" swing lathe is often found with a 3" to 4" chuck on them so in practical terms there may be a lot less difference between them than you would assume. At the larger end you may find a 9" lathe fitted with a 5" chuck which would be impractical on the smaller lathes. Collets are much smaller. typically 1 to 1-1/2" material so not going to make much difference whether used on a 6" or 12" lathe (excepting spindle bore).
The length will be quickly used up for some operations like drilling or boring a hole. Any lathe with less than 12" between centers is very much at risk of being too short to drill a hole if you assume 2-3" for the lathe chuck, 3" for a drill chuck and 3" for a drill bit, then at 12" you are only left with 3-4" for your part and some space to work.
I think we have all been there on the realistic budget vs having something to use right now. It is worth holding out until you can budget for something that will work for you.
Mini-lathes can be utterly worthless if your work is too big for them, but they are good machines within their limited capacity. Based on the kind of work, I am assuming you will want to do, I'd think a 9x19 or 10x22 lathe would be more satisfying for you than an 8x16 or smaller. Still small enough to mount on a bench top and a 10x22 can just barely be moved by 2 strong people (300lbs-ish). Many of the 9 and 10" lathes also include a quick change gear box which makes threading parts easier.
Just so you understand my perspective, I started out with a very small 3.5x17" lathe which I still use, but I have added a 10x24 lathe to handle the larger projects I found I also wanted to work on.
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@Aaron_W - thank you for that. I want variable speed and I see the need for the ability to handle larger stock/parts, etc. I think that you are spot on. I will wait until next year to buy my lathe. At that point I hope to have the workshop space to accommodate one of these two units:
G0752Z 10" x 22" VS Benchtop Lathe with 2-Axis DRO or, most likely, a Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP-w/2axDRO
I rather not waste the money on something smaller that I might outgrow during my learning process. Even if it means that my initial budget of 6-700.00 just went out the window for a future 3.6K purchase. If financially feasible next year, that is the route that I will take.
Thank you all!! Decision made.
G0752Z 10" x 22" VS Benchtop Lathe with 2-Axis DRO or, most likely, a Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP-w/2axDRO
I rather not waste the money on something smaller that I might outgrow during my learning process. Even if it means that my initial budget of 6-700.00 just went out the window for a future 3.6K purchase. If financially feasible next year, that is the route that I will take.
Thank you all!! Decision made.
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- Oct 16, 2019
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I just braved the cold and measured my mini-lathe. From the face of the chuck to the tip of the dead centre it's 12.75". With a 1/2" drill chuck in the the tailstock it's 10" from the chuck to the face of the drill chuck. Add a drill bit for another 2"-3" and now you're at 7" to 8" of space.
So the largest stock you could turn would be 12.75" long, Practically speaking I don't think that's realistic though.
As @Aaron_W wisely said you are likely better off saving your pennies till you can get the machine you want that will serve you best. Don't do what I did
So the largest stock you could turn would be 12.75" long, Practically speaking I don't think that's realistic though.
As @Aaron_W wisely said you are likely better off saving your pennies till you can get the machine you want that will serve you best. Don't do what I did
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- Nov 14, 2016
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@Aaron_W - thank you for that. I want variable speed and I see the need for the ability to handle larger stock/parts, etc. I think that you are spot on. I will wait until next year to buy my lathe. At that point I hope to have the workshop space to accommodate one of these two units:
G0752Z 10" x 22" VS Benchtop Lathe with 2-Axis DRO or, most likely, a Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP-w/2axDRO
I rather not waste the money on something smaller that I might outgrow during my learning process. Even if it means that my initial budget of 6-700.00 just went out the window for a future 3.6K purchase. If financially feasible next year, that is the route that I will take.
Thank you all!! Decision made.
It took me 2 years to convince myself to buy exactly the same lathe that I thought I wanted to get from the beginning. I like to be sure.
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- Aug 6, 2015
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- 3,886
Just had to share... the funny (or ironic, depending on how you look at it) thing is that because I decided to wait until next year to get a better lathe... I decided to CNC my mill... well, I just added up what I have spent so far on the CNC conversion, and I could have bought the Grizzly G0602Z - 10" x 22" Benchtop Metal Lathe with DRO...
I never said I was smart...
I never said I was smart...
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2016
- Messages
- 3,001
Just had to share... the funny (or ironic, depending on how you look at it) thing is that because I decided to wait until next year to get a better lathe... I decided to CNC my mill... well, I just added up what I have spent so far on the CNC conversion, and I could have bought the Grizzly G0602Z - 10" x 22" Benchtop Metal Lathe with DRO...
I never said I was smart...
So something I recently discovered, apparently the common 10x22 and 10x30 lathes still use change gears, they do not have a true QC gear box for thread cutting.
Many older American lathes in the 9 and 10" class were available with a full QCGB, but it appears on small import lathes only the older (1980s) Jet 10x24PY has a full QCGB.
The Grizzly, Enco, Jet, Busy Bee etc 9x19 and 9x20 (same lathe just depends on who was measuring) lathes use a semi quick change gearbox allowing 9 threads to be cut on a given set of change gears. The Grizzly 10x22 uses a different limited gear box also giving 9 threads on a set of change gears. The PM / Weiss 10x22/30 has a 3 speed gearbox only allows 3 threads on a given set of change gears.
The PM/Weiss 10x22/30 does have a reversing lead screw allowing left hand threads. The 9x19 and Grizzly 10x22 don't (although there are plans out there on how to add a reversing gear for both).
The PM/Weiss 10x22/30 has power feed on the carriage and crossslide, the 9x19 and Grizzly 10x22 only have power feed on the carriage.
As far as I know none of the 7" and 8" import lathes have any sort of QCGB so the 9x19 and 10x22s are not at any disadvantage here, but I had not seen anyone mention the need for change gears on these lathes before.
Just in case you were not confused enough.
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- Jan 15, 2019
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But if you really want a rabbit hole to go down, start reading the electronic leadscrew threads. Looks like the best option if you don't have a really nice gear box, but appears to be quite the ordeal.