- Joined
- May 1, 2011
- Messages
- 484
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Clausing 4914
- Thread starter architard
- Start date
I would have thought any tips I had on moving a lathe would have been filed under "What not to do".
I'm dreading the day when I eventually move out of my apartment. It will probably take two trucks, one for the home stuff, which you can bet I'll just pay a moving company to do, and another truck just for all my tools and equipment I've somehow managed to shoehorn into this place.
I'm dreading the day when I eventually move out of my apartment. It will probably take two trucks, one for the home stuff, which you can bet I'll just pay a moving company to do, and another truck just for all my tools and equipment I've somehow managed to shoehorn into this place.
Nope! KennyD, I just kind of hijacked this thread, I must take some pictures of my 4914 and post my own thread. Thanks for the welcome, kinda new at this.
)Well progress has slowed on the lathe. It's cold out in the shed!
I finally got my order of metal in so I could fix the tumbler bracket handle. So I was able to use the tumbler knob assembly as a model for the QCGB knob. Three little parts and cutting my first taper. I wasn't able to get the knob to look exactly the same as the the tumbler knob but it works.
So then I went through a lengthy process of laying out and fabricating a fix for the top of the bracket handle. I got it all jigged up and then brazed it together. It looked great! Once I got paint on it, you couldn't even tell it was ever broken. I'll have to get some pics up soon.
I got it all assembled on the QCGB and that's when more problems surfaced! Much like the headstock I had not wanted to disassemble the QCGB due to its complexity. It felt to me like the gears were extremely tight. I figured once I got everything hooked up it would be fine. WRONG! Well I put everything together and when I tried engaging the gearbox, the v belts slipped. It was obviously having a hell of a time driving the gear box. So I put it in back gear and put it on the lowest feed rate. It strained but I could see the output shaft on the gear box turning. Well it was straining a lot more than I had thought and before long I hear a loud POP! I looked down and the nice repair I had done on the tumbler bracket broke right at the brazing line. Ugh! This lathe is killing me.
So now I have to re-braze that all back together and repaint it. Now I also have to pop off the QCGB and disassemble the whole thing to figure out what in the world is causing these gears to be so troublesome.
I don't know when I'm going to get to that. It's cold out and the holidays are upon us. :angry:
I finally got my order of metal in so I could fix the tumbler bracket handle. So I was able to use the tumbler knob assembly as a model for the QCGB knob. Three little parts and cutting my first taper. I wasn't able to get the knob to look exactly the same as the the tumbler knob but it works.
So then I went through a lengthy process of laying out and fabricating a fix for the top of the bracket handle. I got it all jigged up and then brazed it together. It looked great! Once I got paint on it, you couldn't even tell it was ever broken. I'll have to get some pics up soon.
I got it all assembled on the QCGB and that's when more problems surfaced! Much like the headstock I had not wanted to disassemble the QCGB due to its complexity. It felt to me like the gears were extremely tight. I figured once I got everything hooked up it would be fine. WRONG! Well I put everything together and when I tried engaging the gearbox, the v belts slipped. It was obviously having a hell of a time driving the gear box. So I put it in back gear and put it on the lowest feed rate. It strained but I could see the output shaft on the gear box turning. Well it was straining a lot more than I had thought and before long I hear a loud POP! I looked down and the nice repair I had done on the tumbler bracket broke right at the brazing line. Ugh! This lathe is killing me.
So now I have to re-braze that all back together and repaint it. Now I also have to pop off the QCGB and disassemble the whole thing to figure out what in the world is causing these gears to be so troublesome.
I don't know when I'm going to get to that. It's cold out and the holidays are upon us. :angry:
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2012
- Messages
- 924
yes you'll have to!
UGH.... that sucks. have you lubricated the gearbox/shafts/bearings?
I'm curious what part got broken when under power-feed, there's got to be some high tension going on there to have caused it in the first place (and second place in your case).
Well I wasn't able to work on the lathe for a little while but I got back to it. During the hiatus I found a cross slide screw assembly on ebay for very little in comparison to what it would cost from Clausing so I jumped on it. It wasn't exactly cheap but I'm glad I have it. It was the full assembly including the micrometer dial, handwheel and even a old cross slide nut. I had already bought a replacement for the cross slide nut from Clausing.
That was an easy swap, and I have to say solved pretty much all my cross slide slop issues. It now has less than .003 of runout. I think my saddle may be loose though. If I pull up on it, I can feel it lift off the ways. I'd imagine in a heavy cut it might be possible for the saddle to get pulled up and cause all sorts of issues. I don't recall taking records of the location of the shims. Does anyone know of any resources out there for instructions on how to set up the saddle?
Anyway, I thought the headstock was a big issue? This QCGB is a big headache. So after it broke off my newly fixed tumbler bracket, I popped it off the lathe and started pressing out shafts. It turns out that the bearings for the dog clutch shaft were frozen. I pressed them out and soaked them in mineral spirits and some spirited rotating got them into working condition again. I'd like to eventually replace them but for now I got them moving. I re-brazed my bracket back together, this time dispensing with the paint job till I make sure it doesn't break again.
I got everything buttoned back up and tried out the power feeds. It worked! I was so happy to finally have a full functioning lathe. After manually turning the dials having the power feeds was simply amazing. So my first task now was to make a spindle nose gauge. I have to bore and re-thread the backing plate for my 3 jaw so I wanted to make a gauge for testing the threading job without having to take the work off the spindle. I practiced a few thread cutting jobs on some misc scrap and was confident I knew what I was doing.
However I was still having some issues keeping the QCGB in gear. I've since ruined 3-4 attempts at making a spindle nose copy. It turns out that the 1st cone gear in the lathe is too worn. It simply pops out of gear or even skips gear teeth sometimes so even when I had my threading procedure correct, the thread would jump and get cross threaded etc. I was so frustrated!
So now I'm hunting ebay for gears, or an entire QCGB. I'm going to get a quote from Clausing on that particular cone gear and probably the 20t gear on the tumbler bracket as that seems worn as well. I'm sure it will be a couple hundred dollars so I'm hoping the ebay option might be cheaper. We shall see..
So that's my update for now. I have it all back together because any of the other gears seem to work fine. But of course the thread pitch on the spindle nose is on the bad gear! If anyone has a spare 18t cone gear for a 4900 or 5900 let me know.
I've done a few quick updates on my blog so check it out. Hope to get a few more, particularly the fixing of the tumbler bracket.
That was an easy swap, and I have to say solved pretty much all my cross slide slop issues. It now has less than .003 of runout. I think my saddle may be loose though. If I pull up on it, I can feel it lift off the ways. I'd imagine in a heavy cut it might be possible for the saddle to get pulled up and cause all sorts of issues. I don't recall taking records of the location of the shims. Does anyone know of any resources out there for instructions on how to set up the saddle?
Anyway, I thought the headstock was a big issue? This QCGB is a big headache. So after it broke off my newly fixed tumbler bracket, I popped it off the lathe and started pressing out shafts. It turns out that the bearings for the dog clutch shaft were frozen. I pressed them out and soaked them in mineral spirits and some spirited rotating got them into working condition again. I'd like to eventually replace them but for now I got them moving. I re-brazed my bracket back together, this time dispensing with the paint job till I make sure it doesn't break again.
I got everything buttoned back up and tried out the power feeds. It worked! I was so happy to finally have a full functioning lathe. After manually turning the dials having the power feeds was simply amazing. So my first task now was to make a spindle nose gauge. I have to bore and re-thread the backing plate for my 3 jaw so I wanted to make a gauge for testing the threading job without having to take the work off the spindle. I practiced a few thread cutting jobs on some misc scrap and was confident I knew what I was doing.
However I was still having some issues keeping the QCGB in gear. I've since ruined 3-4 attempts at making a spindle nose copy. It turns out that the 1st cone gear in the lathe is too worn. It simply pops out of gear or even skips gear teeth sometimes so even when I had my threading procedure correct, the thread would jump and get cross threaded etc. I was so frustrated!
So now I'm hunting ebay for gears, or an entire QCGB. I'm going to get a quote from Clausing on that particular cone gear and probably the 20t gear on the tumbler bracket as that seems worn as well. I'm sure it will be a couple hundred dollars so I'm hoping the ebay option might be cheaper. We shall see..
So that's my update for now. I have it all back together because any of the other gears seem to work fine. But of course the thread pitch on the spindle nose is on the bad gear! If anyone has a spare 18t cone gear for a 4900 or 5900 let me know.
I've done a few quick updates on my blog so check it out. Hope to get a few more, particularly the fixing of the tumbler bracket.
ARGH!!!!!!!
I'm at my wits end with this thing. I am utterly dejected right now.
So like I had mentioned in my last post I came to the conclusion that the first cone gear and the 20T gear on the tumbler bracket were worn enough that they were the culprits to my slipping gears when I was threading.
After I couldn't find anything on ebay for a few weeks I gave in and dropped $110 on new gears from Clausing. They came in today, I got so excited that I was finally going to get this thing fixed completely when I got home tonight. I tore the gear box off and got into it. When it came time to take out the cone gear shaft I had to consult the exploded diagram to figure out which way I should press it out. That's when I spotted it...
The 16T gear that is, as far as I can tell, machined onto the cone gear shaft itself. THAT is the gear that is stripped enough to cause problems, NOT the first 18T cone gear as I had thought it was and recently purchased for $65! :banghead:
I may have to walk away from this thing for a few weeks. I am so freakin ******.
So I look at my old out of date (2005) price list and the shaft? Oh yeah that's going to be at least another $130. I'll email clausing tomorrow to find out how much it really is, that is if they even stock it anymore. :whiteflag:
Back to ebay I suppose to see if I can get lucky...
I'm at my wits end with this thing. I am utterly dejected right now.
So like I had mentioned in my last post I came to the conclusion that the first cone gear and the 20T gear on the tumbler bracket were worn enough that they were the culprits to my slipping gears when I was threading.
After I couldn't find anything on ebay for a few weeks I gave in and dropped $110 on new gears from Clausing. They came in today, I got so excited that I was finally going to get this thing fixed completely when I got home tonight. I tore the gear box off and got into it. When it came time to take out the cone gear shaft I had to consult the exploded diagram to figure out which way I should press it out. That's when I spotted it...
The 16T gear that is, as far as I can tell, machined onto the cone gear shaft itself. THAT is the gear that is stripped enough to cause problems, NOT the first 18T cone gear as I had thought it was and recently purchased for $65! :banghead:
I may have to walk away from this thing for a few weeks. I am so freakin ******.
So I look at my old out of date (2005) price list and the shaft? Oh yeah that's going to be at least another $130. I'll email clausing tomorrow to find out how much it really is, that is if they even stock it anymore. :whiteflag:
Back to ebay I suppose to see if I can get lucky...
