Chicago Dreis&Krump Box&Pan brake rebuild

Great idea Paco, will store that one.
Nice to see the underside of a vehicle that hasn't been salted. They never stay that pretty up hear.
If the forklift doesn't support the jack, I've used a threaded rod to pull the guide. A piece of pipe large enough for the bushing to go into and a plate over the end works to extract it.
Getting close to the final paint.

Greg
 
Hi Greg,

I was at my limits on that 18mm bolt man, It worked out in the end. Yeah, vehicles last a long time in this desert climate. Here in Tucson we have the worlds largest military aircraft boneyard. Many of them can return to service in under a week while others are cannibalized for parts, all due to the climate.
So I tried the pressing tool but all I achieved was pushing the machine:confused:. I guess those babies are tighter than hell. I have one more trick up my sleeve but I like your suggestion on the all thread. I do have some 3/8" and 3/4" on hand.

This is the backer for the jack. It has four jackscrews for fine tuning the alignment. The fork lift has tilt, side shift and obviously up/down so I can match the levels on both machine and forks. I have large bollard at the main door to keep the building from damage. They are set 36" deep with close to 700 pounds of concrete plus filled and a apron with rebar poured after setting them. I'm thinking I could set the machine next to the ballard with a 4x4 between the machine and bollard to prevent pushing while pressing from the opposite end.
Ran out of time today and back on shift tomorrow so Saturday will be the day.

The angle iron backer for the 4 ton bottle jack.
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Stayed pretty square after welding the gusset.
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Here you can see the four 5/16-18 threaded holes for the jackscrews.
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The set up. Notice the the top jackscrews used to fine tune the alignment. I will use a short piece of flat bar to reduce the point load on the jacks flange.
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A view from a far. The jack was pushing the machine with every pump. I really thought the machine was heavy enough to perform this task, but live and learn. Those bushings are 3.5" long and tight. Used the two levels to match up the setup.
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This is the bollard (anchor) I plan on using. 6" schedule 40, I can put a torpedo level on it while pressing to see if it starts to deflect.
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Please feel free to opine. Plan C will be what Greg suggested, but I'll need to re-chuck the press too to thread for the rod.

Thanks guys.

Paco
 
They must be tight.
Coming up against the bollard should stiffen things up. I've often split old bushings with a reciprocating saw to ease getting them out. Especially in blind or stepped holes where they wouldn't go through.


Greg
 
Another option. Place a length of heavy bar, beam or tube stock across the forks and behind the jack backer. Tie (lash??) the brake to the beam with 2 come-alongs or chain.

That structure w/fork pockets sure looks nice.
 
Both excellent suggestions, thank you. Back on shift today so things will slow down again in the shop until my nest break.

"That structure w/fork pockets sure looks nice."
You mean the one that doesn't require struts :excitement: Thank you.

Had a setback that requires my driving to CA sometime before the tenth of the month. It seems your rolling the dice when you hire a trucking outfit to transport a machine less than 500 miles. I'll keep it short as some of you might have seen my frustrating post last night under"off topic".
I will be returning the new machine that sustained heavy paint damage from lack of caring on the truckers part. I will be swapping out for a pristine sister and handle the transfer myself. Yesterday was a long day as the driver was was suppose to be in Tucson (from Phx) in the morning but I have a feeling he has a GF in Phx and wanted to stay and play. He showed up all dolled up and smelled like a french whore for someone who was "waiting all day in Phx to have his first offload". He tried to use that excuse at 14:30 when he tried to reschedule for today. When I got firm with him He headed down my way. Imagine that!.
Anyway, heres the new beast. You can imagine the temptation to unwrap and take a look but she will have to stay covered up in film for return.
Shipping weight is 3700lbs. The Hyster took it like a champ but I sure could feel the load once I started rolling.
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At least three areas on the back splash.
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Paint damage as a result from poor bungee technique and HF tarp. Real trucking tarps have sewn in S-hooks straps that prevent this. Totally preventable if only he cared an ounce.
You fellas have a nice day and we'll talk again on Saturday when the tight bushings are out ;).

Paco
 
Bummer about the damage. You could try some dry ice from the supermarket on the bushings. They should shrink more, and sooner than the casting, and may just come out by hand. Mike
 
Hi Mike,
I was planning on freezing the new bushings prior to pressing but never considered dry ice for shrinking the old bushings, good call.
Thanks.
Take it easy, but take it!
Paco
 
Yesterday after servicing the trailer, I tried the bollard set up only to fail yet again:(. This time the fork lift was moving with every pump of the bottle jack despite the brake set,tires chocked and heat applied to the large boss. The bollard was steadfast:). Unbelievable for my pee brain to comprehend how a bushing can be so tight.
I re-indicated the the press tool to damn near zero TIR in the bison since I will drill bore and thread for a 3/4-10. I'm going with Greg's (f350ca) recommendation or plan "C". This will include a pipe of larger ID to allow the bushing to pass through from the outside (tool on the inside). The pipe will have a solid thick plate welded on one end with a threaded hole in the center to draw the tool through the bore and push the bushing out.
Bushing installation will also have to be from the inside as well, but they will be frozen prior. This process has by far been the most challenging for me. Despite the failed attempts, I have learned how not to approach pressing out a medium sized bushing in place. The press tool design will still work (hopefully) with only a threaded bore added, but that's only half of the tool required as the sleeve is equally important. This design is much better in theory as everything should stay aligned so long as the machining is done correctly.

Question: instead of threading the hole on the endplate (pipe sleeve) should I use a nut instead to draw out the tool out without rotation. I'm anticipating that if the tool rotates with every turn it could chew up the end of the bushing where the tool contacts resulting in deformation. I could machine a bushing to act as a thrust type bearing where the large nut contacts the endplate. What say you smart fellas.
I appreciate your assistance with my learning curve.
Stay safe,
Paco
 
Those bushings must be some tight. What you've done should have worked. For the threaded puller use a nut. If its available fine thread rod might give you a little extra pull as well, may even need to go with grade 8 rod. I'd be tempted to simply drill through your arbour and use a nut on both ends.
If it doesn't come easy try splitting the bushing with a reciprocating saw or hack saw threaded through the hole.
Safe journey.

Greg
 
Ok,

Thank you Greg,
I'll have to purchase a 3/4-16 rod. The 3/4-10 I have is grade 5. As far as drilling through the arbor, I don't have a long drill bit that size, the arbor is over six inches long. I imagine threading 1.5" deep should withstand the pull, but then again this phase has kicked my a$$ 2 X.
I have several saw options for splitting the old bushings, but still need to press the new ones. I'm getting a bit concerned, funny how what should be simple compared to other more complex work performed turns out to be the hardest.

Thanks for sharing your experience Greg, Thats what make this site so special to me
Enjoy your day.
Paco
 
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