Beefing up an axle- what methods could i use?

[gregg]

Picture worth a thousand words.. I see disc brake on jack shaft and if there a diff. it could go in center with pillow bearing and u-joint on each side..

More or less like this pic. Minus the jack shaft he has over the spool. On road you can get away with a single a arm. With more then a few inches travel you induce some real nasty camber gains though.

View attachment 92433

If you have two arms, you do one heim top outer arm. Two heims lower, or one longer bushing. Do you have enough meat to drill them wheels and bore them for bearings? If so you can make them work on a hub

 

[chuckorlando]

Yes suspension would lesson the strain a great deal. Your adding a pivot point in board of the wheel and a shock to cussion it. You would liekly have to key, pin or use splines to drive it. A spool and a diff do the same thing. One just has limited slip so turns alot better. With a dual a-arm front end you can build a front end to over come that issue for the most part. Single wheel like you got though, eh you just have to deal. I dont think your gonna do a diff under 400. You need a diff and everything else. Great idea if you can swing it though.

Your wheels look awesome. But they are also your biggest limiting factor. The shaft it's self is just to thin to support all that over hang.

After thinking on this a bit, I say you try to make it work with what or. got more or less. If you had a bearing right at the wheel. Then remove the center section you have now that holds the two inner bearings. Sleeve the two shafts together so they are one. Maybe use a sprocket flange for this. Now add the bearings back on the out side of the sleeve. I still think it's to weak, but better maybe.

Or find a way to get a bearing on the out side of the wheels. How you would support it I dont know other then throw steel at it

 

[chuckorlando]

Or just break down and give Jody a call ahahahahahaha. One of the only stadium machines I would ever pay for. And then prices folks, that page is why I started in machining

http://www.protodie.com/Motorcycle-Buggy-Complete-Rear-drivetrain-suspension_p_187.html

 

[gregg]

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AXLE DIFFERENTIAL W/SPROCKET

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You don't think $60 rear will not hold a 6.5 hp lawn mower engine?
I just cut the axles short to use for the center section?????

Yes suspension would lesson the strain a great deal. Your adding a pivot point in board of the wheel and a shock to cussion it. You would liekly have to key, pin or use splines to drive it. A spool and a diff do the same thing. One just has limited slip so turns alot better. With a dual a-arm front end you can build a front end to over come that issue for the most part. Single wheel like you got though, eh you just have to deal. I dont think your gonna do a diff under 400. You need a diff and everything else. Great idea if you can swing it though.

Your wheels look awesome. But they are also your biggest limiting factor. The shaft it's self is just to thin to support all that over hang.

After thinking on this a bit, I say you try to make it work with what or. got more or less. If you had a bearing right at the wheel. Then remove the center section you have now that holds the two inner bearings. Sleeve the two shafts together so they are one. Maybe use a sprocket flange for this. Now add the bearings back on the out side of the sleeve. I still think it's to weak, but better maybe.

Or find a way to get a bearing on the out side of the wheels. How you would support it I dont know other then throw steel at it

 

[little_sparky]

Yes suspension would lesson the strain a great deal. Your adding a pivot point in board of the wheel and a shock to cussion it. You would liekly have to key, pin or use splines to drive it. A spool and a diff do the same thing. One just has limited slip so turns alot better.

After thinking on this a bit, I say you try to make it work with what or. got more or less. If you had a bearing right at the wheel. Then remove the center section you have now that holds the two inner bearings. Sleeve the two shafts together so they are one. Maybe use a sprocket flange for this. Now add the bearings back on the out side of the sleeve. I still think it's to weak, but better maybe.

Or find a way to get a bearing on the out side of the wheels. How you would support it I dont know other then throw steel at it

So going back to the start, my first option of drilling out a 1-1/4" bar and bulking up the 3/4" axle will not have any effect on anything? So put that out of the picture?

So that locks it in, I'm going to put an A-arm on it

So if I will have to remove the centre mount where the dual bearings are and split it, putting one ether side of a diff? (Is that correct) and so then the diff is connected to uv's that are connected to my axle? Through splines?

And when you say sleeve the two shafts together, would a diff do this?

Thanks
Little_sparky

(Also in a few hours when I get some time I am going to make a CAD drawing of three new ways that I can do this after taking in what everyone has said and I will get everyone's opinion on what they think)

 

[little_sparky]

Hello all,
I just bumped into a friend and explained to him my concerns and he came up with a quick solution that I should think about.
he suggested that i cut the axles off close the the inside of the hub/flanges and weld on a bigger and thicker flange, then weld the same size flange with the same bolt pattern onto a bigger, thicker and stronger axle to replicate a car/trailer hub, then I could bolt it on and it would make taking the wheels on and off a hell of a lot easier, what do you think about this?

here is my understanding of what he meant;







Thanks
little_sparky

 

[chuckorlando]

That would do. Just not what I was picturing as a diff. When I think diff I think gear gase with two cv flanges or two stub out each end for shafts.

That diff looks like a solid axle by it's self that a keyed wheel fits. If so you just need bearing blocks close to the wheel to use it.

When I said sleeve them I meant in lieu of a diff. That is just an attempt to keep your rework to a min and cost almost zero.

A spool and a diff are not used together. You pick one. If you can get a diff for 100 orless it would fit in the 400 range for sure.

I dont know the atv market out there. But here, you can often get a whole machine with blown or no motor or tore up front end for next to nothing. China made mini buggies are another thing often sold dirt cheap with small issues[

QUOTE=gregg;265485]
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You don't think $60 rear will not hold a 6.5 hp lawn mower engine?
I just cut the axles short to use for the center section?????[/QUOTE]

 

[little_sparky]

what do you think of my CAD drawing from above chuckorlando? will this method work and produce enough strength?

also when looking at the bike tonight i realised that i completely grinded away the welds from inner side (side closest to bike). I originally did this so that they could sit extremely close to my bearings, so in saying this, if i did weld flanges on like in the image below, or even if I did hollow out a piece of 1-1/4 shaft then I could put it up right next to it and almost weld or tap onto it



thanks
little_sparky

 

[chuckorlando]

It might help. I just dont know. It "sounds" good though ahaha. What do you have to loose right? Give it a shot and see wha she does. If it gives you trouble then cut it all up and start again.

 

[digiex_chris]

good idea, I like being able to take wheels off easily. Still doesn't solve the problem of having so much unsupported extension on that axle. If it were me, I'd rework the pillow block locations so that the outboard bearing is right close to the wheel so you don't have as much sticking out and flapping. By making up for a weak unsupported design by adding heavier material, you're adding weight that's uneccesary.

With a bolt on flange like that, you can more easily change the axle to a heavier one if you decide there's too much flex just by changing the axle and pillow blocks (and sprocket, and...), so you could still change the axle later if it's still a problem.

I have a lawnmower with tires that size or maybe a little smaller (but with sturdy stamped steel rims connected to the hub) and it runs on 3/4" axles, but the axle is well supported close to the wheels. For a low power application, suspension or not, I think the issue here is the unsupported length. Suspension would be a bandaid for this problem and really is designed to solve a different problem than sticking out axle strength. I think you'd probably be fine the way it is if you can support the axle near the wheel with a bearing.

Extend and stiffen your rear frame width wise to move that bearing out. The diameter of your frame tubing is probably beating your axle diameter for stiffness, take advantage of it!

I think that lawnmower diff with the sprocket on it is ideal for solving the turning while allowing drive issue. It's probably not long enough to reach all the way out to your wheels, but you could set it up above, below, infront, or behind your axle, and link the rotation of the diff axles to your axles with chains and sprockets.