Upgrade - Shop Air - Quality 60-80gal compressors?

We also have a champion, 2 stage, 80 gal upright 7.5 hp.

Intercooler between stages and before tank.

Mag starter and auto tank drain.

Baldor motor.

Overkill yes, but building units got old and got a bonus one year, buy and cry one time.

Look at industrial and farm supply, not TSC but local supply.

Ours was maybe 12 years ago, $1900 or so, the 5 hp TSC unit was 1600 or so and we could order the 7.5 hp version for maybe 2100 but no auto drain or intercooler to tank.

Homeowner model where ours is commercial grade.

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I like Quincy Recpicating compressors.
They were the best reciprocating (piston) compressor made.
I personally would not buy a two stage compressor.
First they generate more moisture in the air.
They build higher pressures than 99% of equipment requires.
Air tools and sand blasting require volume (cfm) not high pressure.
My home shop uses a Quincy 240 and will produce 125 psi max and 23 cfm! Tools run strong for extended periods and sandblasting doesn't require waiting for the compressor to catch up.
Reservoir sizing can help smaller compressors to act bigger, that small compressors is cycling to frequently? add another small reservoir.
 
A friend GAVE me an old but well cared for IR 2 stage 5HP, horizontal 80 gallon, T30 I believe. It is 1980’s vintage. I replaced my similarly old but completely neglected Sears 2HP horizontal on wheels, that just would not quit.

This Ingersoll Rand compressor is terrific. I built a Lean-to shed with concrete pad outside the shop, so it’s very quiet, almost inaudible inside. But I mainly just use air for blowing chips out of sight and running the mill and lathe misters. I got all the leaks out of the plumbing and it only turns on for...I timed it...a minute 30 seconds once every couple days. I added an auto-unloader valve that reduced the starting current significantly.

Having plumbed air throughout is so convenient and the overhead pulldown reel with air chuck is fun to use, comparatively. I almost want to check visitors tires, but not quite.

i’ve been considering some kind of auto drain, but so far too lazy to do the research.
 
I believe McMaster carried offers a automatic drain but It is expensive (125.00)
You can make one with a solenoid and two electric timer relays.
 
I used a cheap single stage compressor for years, and had no problems when the required pressure was below 90 psi. The thing worked hard, and didn't sound all that great, but it did the job for over 25 years. It's major limitation was the maximum pressure it could put out.

When airing up the tires on the trucks or motorhome it just wasn't up to the job. The maximum pressure the pump would put out was 125 psi. While it was high enough to do most of the vehicles it struggled for those that needed 110 psi to 125 psi. If the tire(s) needed to be topped off (especially in cold weather) it took forever. Since the differential between what the compressor could put out and the pressure needed was minimal the tank had to be charged to the maximum.

Once the pressure was near the differential point air flow was reduced to a minimum. The tank pressure had to go down to 80 psi (highest the switch could be set for) before the compressor would restart. I had to constantly bleed off air to get it down to the start pressure. Then I had to wait for the tank to build to full pressure before I could continue to fill the tires.

One downside of a single stage compressor is no pressure relief (unloader) valve between the head and the tank. The compressor has to start at whatever pressure is in the tank. It's difficult for the motor to start the pump when pressures are above 80 psi, so that's generally the highest setting available to restart it.

On a 2 stage pump the unloader eliminates that problem allowing the pump to be started with no head pressure. Thus the minimum kick in pressure can be set higher.

Here's a tutorial from Quincy as when to best use single and 2 stage compressors

Single Stage vs. Two Stage Air Compressors | Quincy Compressor

As for automatic tank drains there are several on the market ranging in price from $65.00 to over $200.00. I have no experience with any of them so I can't comment on their quality or reliability
 
projectnut said:
I used a cheap single stage compressor for years, and had no problems when the required pressure was below 90 psi. The thing worked hard, and didn't sound all that great, but it did the job for over 25 years. It's major limitation was the maximum pressure it could put out.

When airing up the tires on the trucks or motorhome it just wasn't up to the job. The maximum pressure the pump would put out was 125 psi. While it was high enough to do most of the vehicles it struggled for those that needed 110 psi to 125 psi. If the tire(s) needed to be topped off (especially in cold weather) it took forever. Since the differential between what the compressor could put out and the pressure needed was minimal the tank had to be charged to the maximum.

Once the pressure was near the differential point air flow was reduced to a minimum. The tank pressure had to go down to 80 psi (highest the switch could be set for) before the compressor would restart. I had to constantly bleed off air to get it down to the start pressure. Then I had to wait for the tank to build to full pressure before I could continue to fill the tires.

One downside of a single stage compressor is no pressure relief (unloader) valve between the head and the tank. The compressor has to start at whatever pressure is in the tank. It's difficult for the motor to start the pump when pressures are above 80 psi, so that's generally the highest setting available to restart it.

On a 2 stage pump the unloader eliminates that problem allowing the pump to be started with no head pressure. Thus the minimum kick in pressure can be set higher.

Here's a tutorial from Quincy as when to best use single and 2 stage compressors

Single Stage vs. Two Stage Air Compressors | Quincy Compressor

As for automatic tank drains there are several on the market ranging in price from $65.00 to over $200.00. I have no experience with any of them so I can't comment on their quality or reliability
Click to expand...
All Quincy compressors single and two stage have unloaded, in fact a quick walk down the compressor aisle and one of my favorite stores, all the compressors had unloaders.
 
projectnut said:
Here's a tutorial from Quincy as when to best use single and 2 stage compressors

Single Stage vs. Two Stage Air Compressors | Quincy Compressor
Click to expand...

I got a good laugh at this. Snipit from their section on Woodworking:
However, for all the tools that require such exertion, there’s a pneumatic equivalent that will bear the brunt of the task in question. Imagine being able to cut each board and drill each hole evenly and easily in a matter of seconds; it’s all possible with air-powered saws and drills. All you have to do is hold the tool in place and the airpower does the rest — no strained wrists, no overworked shoulders or elbows. Best of all, each application is accomplished so fast that there’s little time to slip or ruin a project.
Click to expand...

I have never seen pneumatic woodworking tools such as saws, drills, and sanders actually being used in any of the school and home shops I've ever been in/worked in. Nail guns, yes - but that is on a whole other level (smaller level) than the air consumption of a saw or drill. That said, I do have a pneumatic key chuck 3/8 drill (reversible) - because it came with the lot I bought. I wouldn't have bought it just to add one to the collection otherwise. Maybe in industry that already has a manufacturing area equipped to run air power it might be more common to see those types of tools, but everything I've ever seen, mainstream woodworking-wise, has always been electric - and beyond hand tools they are 240v, if not 3-phase.
 
I am also looking to purchase a 60-80 gallon vertical compressor. I am looking at the Kobalt that is offered at Lowes. But without having used one, I could not make any recommendation on a specific brand.

Sadly you cannot go by name these days. Most, if not all the compressor manufactures have several levels of compressors. The lower priced ones are most assuredly going to have the compressor made overseas, most likely China as well as the motors and switches. The only thing these have in common with their big brothers is the name.

What I will do is make this recommendation and it all depends on what you want to spend:
1) Get a Two Stage Compressor, In general, two-stage air compressors are more efficient, run cooler and deliver more CFM than their single-stage counterparts.
2) Motor Speed, this is where you can spend a lot more money, compressors motors that run slower 1740RPM vs 3450RPM. The slower motor will generally have longer bearing life and will run quieter than the faster motor. Although it seems you will pay for this benefit at least from my research.
3) Vertical Tank, the vertical tank will take up less real estate and will concentrate the moisture at the bottom and farthest point away from the outlet. This make draining the tank much easier and more complete compared to the horizontal. The bad part is that you will most surely need to anchor the vertical compressor to ensure it remains upright.
4) Air Dryer, this depends on what you will use it for. A simple inline air dryer with a drain will do for most air tool operations. If you are going to paint, then additional drying will be required but only for the application. No need to dry all the air to that point. The best way to control moisture in the air is to use the Zig Zag method when installing your piping. Run the pipe up the wall then drop it for your outlet, be sure to extend the pipe at least 2-3 feet below the hose quick connect and put a ball valve to remove any moisture that collects. Repeat this as you go down the line. Be sure to install a drain valve at any low points where what can collect.
 
FlyFishn said:
If I could measure the wall thickness of my tank non-destructively, and economically, I would. But since I can't I say its safest to do away with it ASAP. Not sure what to do in the mean time if I have to work on something - I really don't want to pressurize it but I don't have any other way to run air tools until its replaced.
Click to expand...
1. A borescope is of limited ability to provide meaningful evaluation of the tank condition. Most tanks will have surface rust inside, but is it actually compromising the tank bottom?
2. A simple, inexpensive sonic test is non-destructive. That's what the city inspector uses and charges businesses $100 per tank. Ask around. Most engine, welding and metal shops have hand-held sonic testers.

jack vines
 
FlyFishn said:
I got a good laugh at this. Snipit from their section on Woodworking:


I have never seen pneumatic woodworking tools such as saws, drills, and sanders actually being used in any of the school and home shops I've ever been in/worked in. Nail guns, yes - but that is on a whole other level (smaller level) than the air consumption of a saw or drill. That said, I do have a pneumatic key chuck 3/8 drill (reversible) - because it came with the lot I bought. I wouldn't have bought it just to add one to the collection otherwise. Maybe in industry that already has a manufacturing area equipped to run air power it might be more common to see those types of tools, but everything I've ever seen, mainstream woodworking-wise, has always been electric - and beyond hand tools they are 240v, if not 3-phase.
Click to expand...

I think the era of pneumatic saws, drills, and such has come and gone. As a kid I worked in a GM truck plant. Almost all the tools were pneumatic. The plant had a huge compressor building with multiple compressors. They even had several that ran with vegetable oil as a lubricant rather than petroleum oil. In those days piston compressors were the standard and there was always some blow by at the piston rings. The compressors using veggie oil were dedicated to breathing apparatus.. The paint lines and grinding stations all required employees to wear hoods with piped in air for breathing.

Even in later years pneumatic saws were common in meat packing plants. The electric saws hadn't yet advanced to the point they could be safely used in a wet production atmosphere. The downside of air tools was they were big, bulky, and heavy. I think they have been by in large replaced by electrics in production situations, and battery powered electrics at the shop level.
 
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