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- Nov 18, 2014
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Not sure why the drawing did not get uploaded, I have not looked at this board in a while, so sorry for not getting the information out sooner. Here is the schmatic, hopefully it will be uploaded.
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[How do I?] Wiring Up A Treadmill Motor (i Know, I Know)
- Thread starter mattthemuppet2
- Start date
Not sure why the drawing did not get uploaded, I have not looked at this board in a while, so sorry for not getting the information out sooner. Here is the schmatic, hopefully it will be uploaded.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,395
that's super useful, thanks!
Thanks for posting the whole schematic with part IDs, waveforms and voltages. It must have taken you hours to do.
I know this is an old thread, so I hope it's ok to post here. I'm just getting started in DC powering my wood lathe with an MC-60 controller. I know very little about metal, but quite accomplished with wood. Again, I hope it's ok to post here. My electronic knowledge is basic. A few questions:
1. I'm just wondering if the reverse switch needs to be 15-20 Amp at 90VDC or not (depending on your motor size. My motor is 18A). And if so, where did you find one? A 90VDC switch with that amperage seems to be hard to find. That is leading me down the relay road, which I would like to avoid. I'm thinking that unless the motor gets stalled it's not likely to draw more than 1/2 it's rating and then only on startup.
2. I see a lot of people use a 10k linear POT, but it seems the MC-60 normally has a 5k linear POT. Is there a reason for using a 10k POT?
Thanks,
Quiller
1. I'm just wondering if the reverse switch needs to be 15-20 Amp at 90VDC or not (depending on your motor size. My motor is 18A). And if so, where did you find one? A 90VDC switch with that amperage seems to be hard to find. That is leading me down the relay road, which I would like to avoid. I'm thinking that unless the motor gets stalled it's not likely to draw more than 1/2 it's rating and then only on startup.
2. I see a lot of people use a 10k linear POT, but it seems the MC-60 normally has a 5k linear POT. Is there a reason for using a 10k POT?
Thanks,
Quiller
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,417
Quiller -
1. Most any switch rated at 20 (or better, 25) amps should work, especially if you don't switch it under load. Turn off the power, let the motor coast down, throw the switch, then turn power back on. CAUTION - Treadmill motors are optimized for rotation in one direction. The brushes are offset several degrees (I forget the typical amount) in one direction with respect to the field magnets. Yes, you can reverse one, but it will run slower in reverse.
2. The value of the pot is not critical. The controller puts 12 volts across the outer terminals, and the wiper simply picks off the voltage at the set point. Both 5K and 10K will work fine. 10k are often easier to find. I'd not recommend going below 5k, as this might send too much current across the pot and shorten its life. By the way ... if you put a switch between the pot wiper and the MC-60, you can return to your previously set speed on startup without having to turn the pot all the way down. Opening the switch drops the "W" voltage to zero and deactivates the safety circuit that prevents a treadmill from starting up at speed.
1. Most any switch rated at 20 (or better, 25) amps should work, especially if you don't switch it under load. Turn off the power, let the motor coast down, throw the switch, then turn power back on. CAUTION - Treadmill motors are optimized for rotation in one direction. The brushes are offset several degrees (I forget the typical amount) in one direction with respect to the field magnets. Yes, you can reverse one, but it will run slower in reverse.
2. The value of the pot is not critical. The controller puts 12 volts across the outer terminals, and the wiper simply picks off the voltage at the set point. Both 5K and 10K will work fine. 10k are often easier to find. I'd not recommend going below 5k, as this might send too much current across the pot and shorten its life. By the way ... if you put a switch between the pot wiper and the MC-60, you can return to your previously set speed on startup without having to turn the pot all the way down. Opening the switch drops the "W" voltage to zero and deactivates the safety circuit that prevents a treadmill from starting up at speed.
Thanks so much for the quick reply. 20 amp AC switches are plentiful, 20 amp DC switches, not so much. None the less, I think you are saying what was my gut feeling is, that the motor will really never be at the rated amps and as you say, the reverse switch would never be thrown with power going to the motor. The motor I have is actually Reversible, and on a wood lathe the only time you ever run the lathe in reverse is when sanding so not much power needed.
I knew about adding the switch to the POT, but wasn't sure exactly where it went. Thanks for that information. I was thinking a small normally closed momentary switch would fit that role. Just push it before startup. It won't carry any current, to speak of, will it?
Thanks again.
I knew about adding the switch to the POT, but wasn't sure exactly where it went. Thanks for that information. I was thinking a small normally closed momentary switch would fit that role. Just push it before startup. It won't carry any current, to speak of, will it?
Thanks again.
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2015
- Messages
- 278
I use a treadmill motor on a small Taig metal lathe. The 5k POT works fine on mine.
I would recommend that you include the choke coil on the DC circuit to smooth out the DC. It will run without out it but not as smooth.
f.y.i. I have attached a diagram that may be some help.
Other items I included on mine are a "jog" button and a "pause/run" switch as well as a reversing switch. The jog button can be used setting up. The pause/run switch allows the motor to be shut off then turned back on without moving the speed control knob.
I really really like using the treadmill motor. It is smooth and powerful and runs a wide range of speeds. The one I have is 2.65HP, which is way more than the fractional hp motors normally used on small lathes. Never a problem cutting metal or wood.
Good luck.
I would recommend that you include the choke coil on the DC circuit to smooth out the DC. It will run without out it but not as smooth.
f.y.i. I have attached a diagram that may be some help.
Other items I included on mine are a "jog" button and a "pause/run" switch as well as a reversing switch. The jog button can be used setting up. The pause/run switch allows the motor to be shut off then turned back on without moving the speed control knob.
I really really like using the treadmill motor. It is smooth and powerful and runs a wide range of speeds. The one I have is 2.65HP, which is way more than the fractional hp motors normally used on small lathes. Never a problem cutting metal or wood.
Good luck.
What exactly does the jog button do?
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 443
I'm getting ready to do my own conversion, with the motor and MC-2100 controller I pulled from a treadmill. I've seen it mentioned in several places about the motor brushes being angled and causing issues (either lower speed or premature wear) when the motor is run in reverse. How much of an issue is this? "Forward" in my mill is the opposite of the motor's normal rotation in the treadmill.
There are quite a few new treadmill motors on eBay that are reversable in varing sizes. Used too but harder to determine if rated reversable.
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