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From your description, it appears that you are using conventional cutting rather than climb cutting. Conventional cutting requires moire power and generates more heat than climb cutting.
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What causes slitting blade mistracking?
- Thread starter WobblyHand
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Yes , that WAS a joke . How were you cutting it though was a serious question . The material could have pinched the cutter and thus it broke .
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If I indicate on a screw turned into the arbor, basically bottomed in the thread, and measure the TIR I find the screw has 0.036" TIR. Which is consistent with the screw head hitting the arbor cap. If you recall, I had 0 gap on one side and roughly over 0.03" on the other side.
If I traverse the slide towards the chuck the needle doesn't change. Likewise if I rotate the chuck 90 degrees and traverse the slide towards the chuck. So the screw may be relatively straight, but offset from the arbor centerline. I will turn down the head of a screw. If that doesn't fix it, I am going to return this. This arbor isn't made correctly.
If I traverse the slide towards the chuck the needle doesn't change. Likewise if I rotate the chuck 90 degrees and traverse the slide towards the chuck. So the screw may be relatively straight, but offset from the arbor centerline. I will turn down the head of a screw. If that doesn't fix it, I am going to return this. This arbor isn't made correctly.
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I think later on I may have had a problem with pinching. This saw broke after only about 1" of cut. My conclusion is the arbor is machined wrong which can cause blade canting.
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That is what it looks like to me! Correction, the TIR is 0.036" for the thread of the arbor.
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Strange , hard to believe they could make it that far off .
You could open it up and go with a bigger thread , but I think I would just send it back and try again . .017 is a mile off true position , still can't imagine how they machined it so far off . I'm guessing here , but maybe it was turned soft , hardened and then ground with the grinding not worried about the thread TIR . 
Just a thought. You might want to quickly confirm that your spindle is square to your table. If that blade goes in at a cant, its going to keep trying to dive into the workpiece.
Of course, I work for the auxiliary back up office of redundancy, so by nature, I have to double check everything, twice.............
Your set up is probably just fine.
Of course, I work for the auxiliary back up office of redundancy, so by nature, I have to double check everything, twice.............
Your set up is probably just fine.
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I'm kind of astonished. For $56, or whatever I paid for this allegedly premium product, it doesn't seem so premium. I'd expect the hole to be on center, or at least close! I am going to return this arbor. It is clearly defectively made. And it cost me a saw blade.Strange , hard to believe they could make it that far off .
Wouldnt the blade wobble when being turned by the spindle if the arbor was not square on the bottom? If it was off center, the blade would tell you as it tried to cut as the load changed. That to me could be a screw off center problem. If the bottom of the arbor is not square, I would think the blade would wobble.
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem.
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem.
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