Volvo Amazon 1965 (Volvo 13134)

holy cow, what a project! Thanks for posting all the pictures! I'm really impressed, especially with the work you did on the rear wheel arches to accomodate the wider track. Really cool work.

It's always a good idea with a project of this size to have multiple sub-projects on the boil. Then when you get pee'ed off with one of them, you can do something different and still make some progress, instead of getting burnt out and dispirited.
 
MrCrankyface said:
mattthemuppet2: Thanks! I couldn't agree more about the restomod part.
I have during this my machines in all possible ways :)
Mill is CNC converted, bought 2 more lathes(one benchtop asian lathe and one huge one that's a bit of a project to get running)


It was at this point my new engine(B230FK) arrived from a just recently scrapped Volvo 940.
2.3 liter turbo I4, in stock configuration it has almost 2.5 times the power compared to previous motor.
Click to expand...
I see you have the lathe thing covered :)

Just did a bit of reading on the B230FK, looks like it's an easy mod to get the power up, just by swapping some bits with the higher power version of the same engine (different wastegate, ECU). I think you mentioned plans to go further than that - what does that entail? Can you get hotter cams or bigger turbos for that engine?
 
Wow, I sure missed some letters in that sentence. :grin:
I believe what I meant to write was "I have during this time upgraded my machines in all possible ways"

It's a pretty durable engine that likes being turboed(same block exists without turbo as well).
I'm most likely going with a custom injection system, haven't decided which yet, leaning towards MaxxECU as it's popular in scandinavia.
The FK models are, as far as I know, a "low pressure turbo" so it's only set at 0.4 bar or similar so there's quite some room there as well.
The FT models are the full pressure variants of the FK, different chips, wastegates and cams.
I pretty much have to make a custom exhaust header due to space requirements and to move the turbo to a better position so that gives some space for optimization.
I've gotten the feeling that the cams for these engines are also quite easy to get a hold of.
It feels like it's ages until I'm at the stage where I can even think of having a running engine so I haven't quite done my research on this! :)
 
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There's been these two rust spots under where the backseat used to be, right above the old mount for the suspension arms..
Started cleaning the area and cutting the rust away, apparently the frame had taken a bit more damage than I first thought.
I've also fully welded the new frame pieces and started on the front mount of the lower links.
Need to cut some more out probably to make sure the link can move up as the suspension travels.
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Judging by the looks of things, someone has tried to repair the rust around here, the result is as previously mentioned that the frame rotted from the inside instead. :grin:
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Took me several hours but managed to get clean metal around all areas that will be welded, cut the bad part of the frame out and bent up a new piece from 2mm / 0.08" sheet.
Pretty rough to work with but got there in the end.
If I have energy left tomorrow I should be able do final fitting and weld it in place so I can start restoring the floor.
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Didn't get the frame piece perfect but it'll do.
Put a small internal brace to keep it together and will probably reinforce it on the outside as well later on.
I'm guessing the old axle mount bracket added at least some structural rigidity so might as well reinforce some more.
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So after quite some confusion about how to tackle this, I figured this might be an approach.
Still a lot of work to do on this piece before I can tack it in but I think it might just work.
I'm really tempted to press some shapes into the top of it but not sure if it's worth the risk of drastic deformation. :grin:
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Ridicilous amount of work on this piece by now.
Extended it in several places by welding in more sheet and then sanding down all the edges.
Ended up securing it with a few screws between fit-tests to ensure it was in the exact same spot each time.
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Finally welded it all in place, think I managed to get awaywithout any warping.
The reflection in the paint makes it look crooked but it's straight as far as my measuring can tell.
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And on to give the other side the same treatment.
I've brushed on a generous amount of rust converter right after this photo was taken and will get started on making a new frame piece and then replicating the floorpiece.
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And this is where I have to remind myself that I'm just an amateur and that I need to chill with my demands of perfection on my first try. :rolleyes:

Stitched in a new frame piece which went alright, on the left it's not supposed to have a tab for spotwelds but the right should have, which I failed a bit.
It's not critical though since it will be hidden under the floor and MIG welded anyway, no need for sptowelding.
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This is what really annoyed me though.
I thought I had measured carefully and bent correctly so I didn't bother checking the height at the front of the new 'axle link tunnel'.
I didn't notice that it sits much higher at the front until after I had finish welded it...
It sits correctly at the rear so I hope I can cut along the sides and bend it down a bit.
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Thank you!

I managed to force myself out to the car to fix my mistake.
Cut the entire top off and started grinding and re-fitting everything.
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Definitely got it close enough for my taste according to the laser!
Finally done with this rust-repair and rebuild and I can move back to making the lower link mounts which will be a lot more fun!
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