Tool and cutter grinder build

[Mark_f]

It won't grind flutes? As in end mill flutes?

I guess I should also have pointed out that this tool holder is for grinding the ENDS of end mills and lathe tools and some other tools that you can figure out how to hold in it. an adapter to hold slitting saws and other milling cutters must be made to do the job. It may be a simple device to make the tool fit this tool holder or a completely separate attachment. but adapters Will be required.

 

[wrmiller]

I will give this some thought. I did make a cylinder and sleeve a long time ago that with a few drops of oil I could not separate and it spun quite freely and for a long time. But it was a monster to make and get the honing right. I know air bearing are expensive, but there has to be a middle ground here somewhere.

 

[Mark_f]

I will give this some thought. I did make a cylinder and sleeve a long time ago that with a few drops of oil I could not separate and it spun quite freely and for a long time. But it was a monster to make and get the honing right. I know air bearing are expensive, but there has to be a middle ground here somewhere.

let me know if you come up with any details . I know it can be done and you proved that by doing it , but it is also very difficult I believe.

 

[Mark_f]

Mark,

The following comments are for others that are considering making a tool grinder.
You have done an excelent job with the changes that I recognize.

Most of us will be starting this project with material from the scrap box to minimize purchacing.
You know, an Engineers work shop is as good as his scrap box.

When changing the design to accomodate other material sizes, unforseen consequences may arrise.
My suggestion is to make a full size sketch with pertinant dimensions recorded.
Its much easier erasing and changing than when its in steel.

Next, when making something with a sliding fit, use the principal of: L/D = 3 or more.
Another words the length of engagement is three times the diameter or width of the slide.
An example of a poor L/D is the lock on the storm door closer, it tilts, jams and is locked.
A good example is a arbor press with an L/W of 4 or so.
Just my 2 cents.

Mark, As far as the spindle is concerned you will not have an issue based upon the skill demonstrated thus far.
The most important point to keep in mind is to press only on the outside race when assembling into the housing.
Then press only on the insider race when assembling on the shaft. This procedure prevents Brenneling the balls in the bearing assembly.
Most spindle designs firmly clamp the bearing at the wheel end in position both sides of each race.
The belt end is allowed to float axialy in the housing to accomodate thermal expansion.

Exterior seals on the ball bearing are in order as well as running in a bath of light spindle oil.
When turned off the oil level should cover the ball at the lowest position.
Keep up the outstanding work!

Restorer

Your thoughts on the spindle are interesting. I planned using two angular contact bearings . they would go into the housing back towards back and the spindle would capture them and keep them in place plus providing the preload which the bearing guy says is built in. he says put them back to back and tighten the nut that holds the pulley on and it is done. this way I don't need to fuss making those screw on end caps and just use oil seals on each end to keep the oil in. This sounds simple enough. Some , I believe, think this will not work, but I don't see why not. Then , I ain't no spindle expert either.

 

[Bill Gruby]

What makes you think that you cannot grind flutes with your grinder the way it is. I am working up a holder now that will grind them from the side. Look in the Quorn book, there is one in there it's just not big enough to do my cutters.

 

[wrmiller]

let me know if you come up with any details . I know it can be done and you proved that by doing it , but it is also very difficult I believe.

My apologies, I got tied up in stuff at work (hate it when that happens...).

The solution Sir, is Moglice. I will use it for creating perfect bearing surfaces in the base pieces and the spindle. I've not personally used it but I did run across someone on the web building a Quorn or Bonnelle using it and had pics of his centering pieces for the bars and stuff. I will need to research detail stuff like ideal thicknesses of the material, setup, etc., but I'm fairly certain this will work. And it will be a whole lot easier than lapping and polishing with newspaper for weeks/months like the first time...

 

[Mark_f]

My apologies, I got tied up in stuff at work (hate it when that happens...).

The solution Sir, is Moglice. I will use it for creating perfect bearing surfaces in the base pieces and the spindle. I've not personally used it but I did run across someone on the web building a Quorn or Bonnelle using it and had pics of his centering pieces for the bars and stuff. I will need to research detail stuff like ideal thicknesses of the material, setup, etc., but I'm fairly certain this will work. And it will be a whole lot easier than lapping and polishing with newspaper for weeks/months like the first time...

I have read his site several times about moglice. ( I think he goes by "Mad Motter)"?. Anyway, it looked interesting and if I remember correctly, that stuff is kind of expensive also. I have no idea how well it would work for the tool holder, but from his photos,it looked like pretty good stuff.

 

[Mark_f]

What makes you think that you cannot grind flutes with your grinder the way it is. I am working up a holder now that will grind them from the side. Look in the Quorn book, there is one in there it's just not big enough to do my cutters.

I have no doubts it will grind flutes, but I don't think it will the way it is. I believe it will take a different tool holder.

I looked at the one in Quorn and it appears they just put a longer spindle in place of the short one in the same tool holder.

 

[John252058]

Just wondering if the ACME nut is an anti-backlash nut. Did you make the nut, purchase it and if so where?

 

[Mark_f]

Just wondering if the ACME nut is an anti-backlash nut. Did you make the nut, purchase it and if so where?

Yes, the bronze acme nut is anti back lash and adjustable. I got the nut from ebay for $17. I got the acme screw in a two foot length also on ebay for $8 plus shipping (another $7) all in all a good bargain.