Tool and cutter grinder build

[Mark_f]

Can you press a steel sleeve into the tool holder body? Just a suggestion.

That is a possibility.....may consider that.......also looking at another design.......oh my ,.... the choices. That is a good idea tough. thank you....I hadn't thought of that.




I solved the problem for now. I think it was just dumbness on my part. I cleaned both pieces with WD-40 and wiped them dry . The problem was a tiny bit of grit left from honing. Everything works good now. I just wonder about grit from grinding being a problem.

 

[Restorer]

Mark,

No. 3 of 3. About two years ago I purchased a saw sharpener from "Harbor Freight", (See photo). Overall it’s nothing great, and a little clumsy to use. However it comes with an interesting motor, a wheel guard and a diamond wheel for about $80. When they refreshed the floor model display I bought a partial unit for $20 and have a spare motor. I am going to use the spare when I build a Bonelle.

However problems arise with Chinese motors. With these I will dissemble and replace the ball bearings with U.S. made parts if possible. If it’s a proprietarily bearing, I will flush out all grease get them as clean as possible and repack with new clean grease.
Also the Chinese fail to lacquer the windings to save $0.50. This causes premature motor failure, as the copper wire work hardens from flexing due to centrifugal forces. Because I don’t have the proper lacquer for motor windings, I have used oil based Polyurethane wood finish with success. I apply a liberal amount of Poly over the copper wire (both rotor and stator) and let it soak in. I apply a coat from one end, and an hour later a second from the other. Then let dry overnight. I repeat this for 3 days to get an adequate bond.

Then I address the wire in the area connecting to the commutator. Two materials are needed here, cotton string and epoxy. I put the rotor shaft in my lathe, mix some epoxy and apply working it down into the wires until the space is filled. Then starting at the commutator side, I wind the string edge to edge as far as possible toward the rotor coils, turning the lathe spindle by hand. Coat the string with epoxy and back wind to the commutator. Tie the ends together and cutoff close to the knot. Apply epoxy over the outside of the string. When the epoxy has cured the motor can be reassembled. A photo of a commercially processed rotor is included for reference.

When my “Drill Doctor” failed, I found the broken wire and soldered in a patch. I then processed the wiring as above. It continues to run, five years now. It was one year 6 months old when failure occurred. The product was out of warrantee and Drill Doctor would not sell a replacement motor.

Perhaps this was informative.

I will now quietly watch as your Bonelle comes together.

Regards,

Restorer

 

[Mark_f]

Mark,

No. 3 of 3. About two years ago I purchased a saw sharpener from "Harbor Freight", (See photo). Overall it’s nothing great, and a little clumsy to use. However it comes with an interesting motor, a wheel guard and a diamond wheel for about $80. When they refreshed the floor model display I bought a partial unit for $20 and have a spare motor. I am going to use the spare when I build a Bonelle.

However problems arise with Chinese motors. With these I will dissemble and replace the ball bearings with U.S. made parts if possible. If it’s a proprietarily bearing, I will flush out all grease get them as clean as possible and repack with new clean grease.
Also the Chinese fail to lacquer the windings to save $0.50. This causes premature motor failure, as the copper wire work hardens from flexing due to centrifugal forces. Because I don’t have the proper lacquer for motor windings, I have used oil based Polyurethane wood finish with success. I apply a liberal amount of Poly over the copper wire (both rotor and stator) and let it soak in. I apply a coat from one end, and an hour later a second from the other. Then let dry overnight. I repeat this for 3 days to get an adequate bond.

Then I address the wire in the area connecting to the commutator. Two materials are needed here, cotton string and epoxy. I put the rotor shaft in my lathe, mix some epoxy and apply working it down into the wires until the space is filled. Then starting at the commutator side, I wind the string edge to edge as far as possible toward the rotor coils, turning the lathe spindle by hand. Coat the string with epoxy and back wind to the commutator. Tie the ends together and cutoff close to the knot. Apply epoxy over the outside of the string. When the epoxy has cured the motor can be reassembled. A photo of a commercially processed rotor is included for reference.

When my “Drill Doctor” failed, I found the broken wire and soldered in a patch. I then processed the wiring as above. It continues to run, five years now. It was one year 6 months old when failure occurred. The product was out of warrantee and Drill Doctor would not sell a replacement motor.

Perhaps this was informative.

I will now quietly watch as your Bonelle comes together.

Regards,

Restorer

Thank you for the information. I am watching for a suitable motor. Till then there is plenty to keep me busy

 

[Dan_S]

for sleaving you might want to consider one of these, as they are nice and cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Bunting-Beari...3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1423167410&sr=1-13

 

[wrmiller]

for sleaving you might want to consider one of these, as they are nice and cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Bunting-Beari...3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1423167410&sr=1-13

Oooh...very nice.

 

[Luminast]

Mark, thanks very much for all of the work you have done to document this project. I've learned a lot from reading through it. Your work is inspiring.

 

[rwm]

Regarding grit and binding of the tool holder. I don't know much about this issue. Will steel on steel be better? What about a smaller surface area? You could machine the middle of the bore to a larger ID and just have two shorter bearing surfaces at each end.
R

 

[f350ca]

Been an interesting build Mark.
You might want to look at a tread mill motor, some are smaller than others. I powered a tool grinder I built a while back with one. Used a variable transformer for the power supply, it lets me dial the speed from 3600 rpm for regular wheels to 5000 rpm for diamond faced ones.
Keep up the posts.
Greg

 

[Mark_f]

Been an interesting build Mark.
You might want to look at a tread mill motor, some are smaller than others. I powered a tool grinder I built a while back with one. Used a variable transformer for the power supply, it lets me dial the speed from 3600 rpm for regular wheels to 5000 rpm for diamond faced ones.
Keep up the posts.
Greg

Yea, I been watching for a tread mill motor and controller. I believe everyone including and especially the "pickers" on eBay have figured out what we are doing with treadmill motors and now the price is going sky high. A year ago you couldn't give one away and now they are fetching ridiculous prices on C. L. and eBay. This society runs on greed. I keep watching though

 

[Mark_f]

for sleaving you might want to consider one of these, as they are nice and cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Bunting-Beari...3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1423167410&sr=1-13

oooo, that is a good price. if I have to sleeve it this is what I will use.