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Tool and cutter grinder build
- Thread starter Mark_f
- Start date
Sometimes it pays to sleep on it. I got my solution. I cut the piece from the round and scab a 1" piece on it. Once machined and bored, you won't se the seam and the bolts will be hidden after assembly. Lot more work, but it will work. I'll try to remember pictures :nuts:
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,120
Could you make a note on the base drawings of your comment about leaving them 2"? I'm liking this idea.
It is starting to sound like a person should stare at the drawings long enough to get an idea of what they want to do and then just go their way. Like you and Bill did.
It is starting to sound like a person should stare at the drawings long enough to get an idea of what they want to do and then just go their way. Like you and Bill did.
Could you make a note on the base drawings of your comment about leaving them 2"? I'm liking this idea.
It is starting to sound like a person should stare at the drawings long enough to get an idea of what they want to do and then just go their way. Like you and Bill did.
Yes, I will do that.
You are correct. If you have a set of drawings try to look at them, they will drive you nuts:nuts:. They were made in Britain ( they use a different perspective than us), converted from metric to inches in Australia, and a lot got lost in the transformation. they are riddled with errors and you have to stare at them for hours to figure out what is going on.
anic:You will be like this little yellow guy after a while. I have more hours trying to figure these prints out than I do in the actual build.I found no two builds alike , so yes, everyone does whatever they want ( probably couldn't figure out the prints)
I made a lot of changes and found out when you change one thing , it screws up everything else and you have to compensate for it.
I made my sliding base bigger and heavier, but this altered the dimensions for everything. I am glad I did it though.
I lengthened the bed from 12" to 19" and this is almost a necessity.
I changed to 5C collets for the work head and this required redesigning the whole work head.
I am making a set of edited prints to match what I am building and you will be welcome to a set of them , but I use a lot of scraps or what I can find and this meant things were changed to fit what I have. this is not always what is best. I make no guarantee of my prints, but they sure as heck are easier to follow.
I got a bright idea for the work head since it has to be totally redesigned for the 5C collets. I did not have a piece of material big enough but found this.
There is a work head hiding in there I hope. it will be tight , but I think it will work.
Two hours on the lathe and an hour and a half on the mill and this appeared. It is barely big enough but I gonna try it. The bore is finished a 1.500", the problem is it is only 2" front to back instead of 3". I think I can redesign the spindle to overcome it's shortness. We will see. That bump on the side is for the split cotter lock. this is roughed and must still be finished and polished into what I hope is the tool holder. If not, I only waste a couple days and have to find some more material.
Got to go make a drawing to match this and see what develops.
There is a work head hiding in there I hope. it will be tight , but I think it will work. Two hours on the lathe and an hour and a half on the mill and this appeared. It is barely big enough but I gonna try it. The bore is finished a 1.500", the problem is it is only 2" front to back instead of 3". I think I can redesign the spindle to overcome it's shortness. We will see. That bump on the side is for the split cotter lock. this is roughed and must still be finished and polished into what I hope is the tool holder. If not, I only waste a couple days and have to find some more material.Got to go make a drawing to match this and see what develops.
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2013
- Messages
- 4,120
I do, I did, and I am (nuts). :rofl:
I aced two years of mechanical drafting back in the days of T-squares and French curves. My second year we got to try out the drafting tables with the mechanical arms (oooh...). I am familiar with the Old School Isometric/3-D drawings, but this stuff just drives me nuts. And don't even get me started on today's CAD software...
So I would love to have a set of drawings when you are done. I'll even pay for them. Some build notes (what you wish you'd done differently, etc.) would be icing on the cake.
I have two 1.25"x20" lengths of stressproof TGP just waiting for this build, so you can see I'm already going to have to deviate from the original design, and I had already decided that I would like to use 5c collets if I can as they are readily available and like you said, you can get square ones.
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After 8 hours of milling and lathe work today, I finally have a tool holder and I think I may like it.
This piece of 3" round aluminum bar stock is what I started with. It was not quite as big as I needed but it is all I could scrounge up.
A whole day on the lathe and mill and it started to take shape but I wasn't liking it. It just wasn't quite big enough and I was going to make sacrifices using it ( besides it is kinda ugly). The bosses on front and back should be round , but mine were going to be flat on the sides because of the material size and that is bothering me.
after 8 hours of milling and lathe work today, This is what I ended up with. It looks a little rough yet, but some filing , grinding, sanding, and polishing and maybe it will work.
It certainly is looking better though. I did not show some of the unique and strange setups I had on the lathe and mill to make this because many were what even I consider a safety hazard and no one in their right mind should have been doing what I did. :nuts: I was fraustrated and desperate to figure this out so ......I did..:whistle: :nono:
Some black wrinkle finish and we may have a winner here. I am going to put a split cotter on the spindle but I think I will slit the bottom and use a pinch bolt. I made a couple miscalculations and I'm afraid there may not be room for the split cotter.
It is painted and baking in the oven now. I will post a photo of it later tonight.
This piece of 3" round aluminum bar stock is what I started with. It was not quite as big as I needed but it is all I could scrounge up. A whole day on the lathe and mill and it started to take shape but I wasn't liking it. It just wasn't quite big enough and I was going to make sacrifices using it ( besides it is kinda ugly). The bosses on front and back should be round , but mine were going to be flat on the sides because of the material size and that is bothering me. after 8 hours of milling and lathe work today, This is what I ended up with. It looks a little rough yet, but some filing , grinding, sanding, and polishing and maybe it will work. It certainly is looking better though. I did not show some of the unique and strange setups I had on the lathe and mill to make this because many were what even I consider a safety hazard and no one in their right mind should have been doing what I did. :nuts: I was fraustrated and desperate to figure this out so ......I did..:whistle: :nono: Some black wrinkle finish and we may have a winner here. I am going to put a split cotter on the spindle but I think I will slit the bottom and use a pinch bolt. I made a couple miscalculations and I'm afraid there may not be room for the split cotter.It is painted and baking in the oven now. I will post a photo of it later tonight.
Ok, here is the tool holder with the wrinkle finish baked on.
I painted and baked the part. It really looks good. The only thing I wish was different is the spindle boss was a little wider so I didn't have to have the flats on the sides.
I still have to hone and polish the bores, slit the bottom for the pinch bolt and drill for the split cotter at the top. That paint is great. it covers a multitude of sins :rofl: There are some nicks in the face from gripping the part so hard ( while doing some risky setups to machine), but they will be covered by the other parts. This thing would be gorgeous with a brass hand wheel, but I looked up the price on a piece of 3" diameter brass 1 1/2" long :yikes: . i think it gonna half to be steel or aluminum.
The spindle for the tool holder is next.
I painted and baked the part. It really looks good. The only thing I wish was different is the spindle boss was a little wider so I didn't have to have the flats on the sides. I still have to hone and polish the bores, slit the bottom for the pinch bolt and drill for the split cotter at the top. That paint is great. it covers a multitude of sins :rofl: There are some nicks in the face from gripping the part so hard ( while doing some risky setups to machine), but they will be covered by the other parts. This thing would be gorgeous with a brass hand wheel, but I looked up the price on a piece of 3" diameter brass 1 1/2" long :yikes: . i think it gonna half to be steel or aluminum.The spindle for the tool holder is next.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2014
- Messages
- 136
You could always use steel or aluminum and a piece of Brass tube pressed on around the circumference and a piece of thin plate inlaid on the face. Give it a 2 tone look.
Mark
I intend to have a little brass somewhere. I always try to add some brass accents to projects to give a little "bling" to them.
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