To grease or not to grease the 3-jaw

dewbane

Michael McIntyre
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
232
The stock 3-jaw chuck on my Grizzly g0602 started to feel like maybe I had over-torqued something on a recent job. I didn't add any force multipliers to the supplied factory chuck key, but I was really cranking down on it. I decided to take the chuck off, take it apart, and have a look. Maybe I got some chips in there that were jamming things up. Maybe I had bent something. Maybe something had worn out.

I took the chuck apart, swished the parts in mineral spirits, and blew everything off. I didn't really find the telltale chip. I found a tiny burr on the scroll that was probably there from the factory, and I stoned it off with a 1000 grit stone. Really, what I did in the way of cleaning and deburring was trivial, and it seemed to be in fine shape. There was no smoking gun.

Upon reassembly, using a liberal amount of the Grizzly-recommended ISO 32 lubricant, I found that the mechanical action of the moving parts just felt really, really dry. After scratching my head a minute, I reflected on the fact that the bevel gear side of the mechanism didn't have any traces of contamination when I disassembled it, and it seemed to be reasonably well sealed against chip infiltration. With that being the case, why not use grease?

So use grease I did. I put a good dollop of synthetic NLGI #2 on all three bevel gears, and ran it around a few times before installing the cover. I reinstalled the jaws, put the chuck back on the lathe, and the action of the mechanism is buttery smooth and feels 100% better. Maybe even 100.0015% better.

Now I'm sitting here wondering how badly I screwed the pooch on this one. I messed up, didn't I? Grease will trap and hold gritty crapola that makes its way past what amounts to a dust cover. It's not really sealed at all. There are no O-rings or bearings. It's a snug-fitting dust cover, but it's just a dust cover. My chuck is slowly going to wear away to oblivion, because I broke a cardinal rule and used grease on a scroll chuck.

Or maybe not? Maybe it's no big deal? Maybe the grease will make the chuck wear out in 10 years instead of 20?

I decided to do a little digging, and I found such a mixed bag of inconsistent and conflicting information that I thought it might be worth opening a new discussion. Sure, it's been discussed before, but everything has been discussed before. We like to talk, right? I sure do. Just look at me ramble here. So let's yap a bit!

Tell me I'm an idiot. Tell me I have to sacrifice my first born child's toenail trimmings to the Machine Gods to serve my penance. Or tell me it will probably be fine. I really don't know. I'm a truck driver with a liberal arts degree who only ended up with a hobby machine shop through a random series of drunken credit card purchases.

PS - I think the real problem is questionable machining on the cheap Chinese chuck. I've been on a campaign lately of just enduring the pain to buy the real stuff, and I have an Alloris AXA tool post and a Kurt DX4 mill vise now. The tool post isn't really any better than the Chinese one, but the mechanism for holding it in place is a gargantuan improvement. The mill vise is 753 quadrillion times better, and if I wake up in my next life as a woman, I vow to have Kurt's baby. Maybe I should buy a real 3-jaw chuck? A Bison? What will that set me back? $210,000? Can I borrow $210,000 from you? I'll pay you back tomorrow, I promise!
 
You did fine. Most of us use grease behind the scroll and oil on the jaw guides. Chips rarely make it behind the scroll, although they can get between the scroll and the chuck body.

Enjoyed your post, by the way!
 
Chucks need to be maintained just like any other mechanism, which means periodic cleaning and lubrication.

When I bought my Logan, the three jaw that it came with was pretty rough, so I decided to take it apart. First thing I noticed was that the bolts holding it together were loose. When I got inside I found out why: The scroll was so badly damaged
from neglect that even after cleaning and lubing it, it was unusable. The bolts were loose to hide that fact.
What I found inside was a paste of ground chips and dirt that looked, and had acted, just like grinding compound.

I have a Bison 4-jaw, and Bison recommends grease for lubrication.
 
I tried oil in my 3-jaw and it felt terrible. A bit of grease made it smooth as silk.
You'll be fine. So will the chuck :cool:
 
I don't know about you guys, but reading gold nuggets like, "I'm a truck driver with a liberal arts degree who only ended up with a hobby machine shop through a random series of drunken credit card purchases," really puts a smile on my face. My life is pretty depressing, and I don't smile much. I think I should make a point to hang out here a lot more often.

Also, thanks for the reassurance that my chuck will be fine. The grease sure works dramatically better than pallet jack oil for making everything run.
 
I would suggest experimenting a little further until the chuck actually ends up unusable. That way your hand is forced, you have no choice, you will have to buy a new 3 jaw chuck. Then you will be really impressed. A nice 3 jaw isn't as hard on the wallet as a six jaw so really getting a new 3 jaw is a very economical decision. That's how I tend to justify things I may not actually need.
 
It's something that should probably have some occasional maintenance anyway, so if next time you take it apart the insides have turned to shreds and the lathe runs away, you'll know. I doubt it'll be an issue though. I personally use grease because last time I tried oil, I had to let the lathe run for a while with some paper towels taped around the chuck to prevent the oil slinging. Not that I've run it for that many hours with grease, just light hobby use.

It might be more of an issue if you use a tool post grinder a lot, because it's not as easy as laying a towel over the ways. At that point though, occasional maintenance becomes regular maintenance IMO.
 
The stock 3-jaw chuck on my Grizzly g0602 started to feel like maybe I had over-torqued something on a recent job. I didn't add any force multipliers to the supplied factory chuck key, but I was really cranking down on it. I decided to take the chuck off, take it apart, and have a look. Maybe I got some chips in there that were jamming things up. Maybe I had bent something. Maybe something had worn out.

I took the chuck apart, swished the parts in mineral spirits, and blew everything off. I didn't really find the telltale chip. I found a tiny burr on the scroll that was probably there from the factory, and I stoned it off with a 1000 grit stone. Really, what I did in the way of cleaning and deburring was trivial, and it seemed to be in fine shape. There was no smoking gun.

Upon reassembly, using a liberal amount of the Grizzly-recommended ISO 32 lubricant, I found that the mechanical action of the moving parts just felt really, really dry. After scratching my head a minute, I reflected on the fact that the bevel gear side of the mechanism didn't have any traces of contamination when I disassembled it, and it seemed to be reasonably well sealed against chip infiltration. With that being the case, why not use grease?

So use grease I did. I put a good dollop of synthetic NLGI #2 on all three bevel gears, and ran it around a few times before installing the cover. I reinstalled the jaws, put the chuck back on the lathe, and the action of the mechanism is buttery smooth and feels 100% better. Maybe even 100.0015% better.

Now I'm sitting here wondering how badly I screwed the pooch on this one. I messed up, didn't I? Grease will trap and hold gritty crapola that makes its way past what amounts to a dust cover. It's not really sealed at all. There are no O-rings or bearings. It's a snug-fitting dust cover, but it's just a dust cover. My chuck is slowly going to wear away to oblivion, because I broke a cardinal rule and used grease on a scroll chuck.

Or maybe not? Maybe it's no big deal? Maybe the grease will make the chuck wear out in 10 years instead of 20?

I decided to do a little digging, and I found such a mixed bag of inconsistent and conflicting information that I thought it might be worth opening a new discussion. Sure, it's been discussed before, but everything has been discussed before. We like to talk, right? I sure do. Just look at me ramble here. So let's yap a bit!

Tell me I'm an idiot. Tell me I have to sacrifice my first born child's toenail trimmings to the Machine Gods to serve my penance. Or tell me it will probably be fine. I really don't know. I'm a truck driver with a liberal arts degree who only ended up with a hobby machine shop through a random series of drunken credit card purchases.

PS - I think the real problem is questionable machining on the cheap Chinese chuck. I've been on a campaign lately of just enduring the pain to buy the real stuff, and I have an Alloris AXA tool post and a Kurt DX4 mill vise now. The tool post isn't really any better than the Chinese one, but the mechanism for holding it in place is a gargantuan improvement. The mill vise is 753 quadrillion times better, and if I wake up in my next life as a woman, I vow to have Kurt's baby. Maybe I should buy a real 3-jaw chuck? A Bison? What will that set me back? $210,000? Can I borrow $210,000 from you? I'll pay you back tomorrow, I promise!
I just want to say this....... you are a funny guy.
:laughing:
 
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