Threading on a lathe when you cannot set up 29.5 degree compound

FWIW. I have a brand new one sitting on my bench. The furnished tee nut doesn't have holes for the pins. Apologies. Was looking at the wrong tee nut. The pins, when used, are to help prevent the post from rotating on the compound, but they are a slip fit into the tool post. Use them for everything but threading. Or not at all. I don't believe the equally rated Aloris has pins. Yesterday I followed Mr. Whoopee's and Winky's example and put dry wall sanding mesh under my Shars until I get the tee nut made. Seems to be working well. I will probably make the tee nut without the pins because I don't have the correct size ream.
 
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This thing about feeding in with the compound at 29 or 30 degrees is a bit overrated, unless your are cutting really large threads and/or have very little rigidity in your machine or set-up. Many folks (including me) do fine feeding in from the cross slide. If you are doing thread chasing or repair you generally need the compound at 90 degrees to synchronize on the thread.
 
woodchucker said:
Not at all. I use my compound at 29 and still am able to sync a repair thread. it's not necessary to have it at 90.
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I agree. Way easier to sync a metric thread with the compound, and cross slide, especially if you have to connect the leadscrew first.
 
I love this forum! Thank you all for the comments and advice.

Does the leadscrew pitch impact the ability to thread (half nuts engaged and kept engaged throughout), or is backlash more important? Asking because my LS is 4TPI which is quite coarse.

OTOH the ELS works quite well.

I have pulled the pins and will try higher speeds and using the 29.5 degree approach then try the square/ perpendicular approach, and show results. I am swamped with work today and
tomorrow so hope to get back to this by Friday.

Thank you again.


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I did not use the anti-rotation pins in my tool post. My compound doesn’t have a T-slot, just a single good sized stud/bolt. I made a new bolt (converting from a 4way turret) and found the post would creep a bit. I made a large washer, about 2” dia, with a depressed mid region - the clamping pressure is all near the OD. Very happy with the result, the tool post stays put. The washer rim is about 0.05” thick - sort of a fun challenge to make a washer that large yet quite thin and even, using just a lathe.

Soft jaws.
 
Chipper5783 said:
I did not use the anti-rotation pins in my tool post. My compound doesn’t have a T-slot, just a single good sized stud/bolt. I made a new bolt (converting from a 4way turret) and found the post would creep a bit. I made a large washer, about 2” dia, with a depressed mid region - the clamping pressure is all near the OD. Very happy with the result, the tool post stays put. The washer rim is about 0.05” thick - sort of a fun challenge to make a washer that large yet quite thin and even, using just a lathe.

Soft jaws.
Click to expand...

Reminds me of a Breville (sp?) spring.


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--duplicate @admin please remove
 
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--duplicate @admin please remove


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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