The Voron kit build thread

The Prusa is not enclosed, to get good quality ABS/ASA the recommendations are for 50C in the print volume. So it would have to be enclosed to get quality ABS prints (at least for parts of any size), so I've read and heard from many sources. The Prusa has many PETG parts which can barely handle 50C, but it is marginal and if it gets much higher the PETG will creep and fail, even at 50 I wonder if it will shorten it's life. So it's not the best printer to enclose. The Voron is made with ABS/ASA so it can easily handle 50-60C, and is designed and tested for that, and includes the enclosure and has options for filtering so it is a natural choice for ABS/ASA.

Styrene is pretty bad stuff, the wife doesn't want it in the house. If you can smell it it's probably not a good thing. So I've not tried it.

Some say the ABS odor varies a lot with the brand, and if the printer is closed up tight and not opened until it has cooled most of the volatile components have condensed on the printer surfaces. So there are a lot of variables including the size of the room and air motion in the environment. It also depends on printing temperatures.

Some people have major problems with PLA so it seems to vary a lot with the individual. I only notice the "french toast" smell of PLA within a foot or two of the printer, and I stay out of that region. A lot of the printing occurs when I'm not in the room at all. PETG seems even less odorous, though I haven't printed as much of it. In general I don't want to smell any of it more than very briefly just to be cautious. There's not much reason to and the health risk data is sketchy at this point.

My first spool of Carbon Fiber filament arrived today. CF-PETG. The Repbox people use it and are very fond of it. Their 3D printed parts were very thin yet strong so I figured it would be good to have some on hand. I don't have a project for it yet..
 
If you and/or @7milesup are interested in some more advanced options for the Stealthburner led's and case lighting, read through the last page or two of this thread.



www.teamfdm.com

Stealthburner beta(0) macros

www.teamfdm.com www.teamfdm.com

I had a bit of a fight getting the LED effects plugin working with Klipper, but it's all running now. Some pretty neat lighting status effects with the plugin. And I only have the Stealthburner lights installed. Still waiting on Amazon for the neopixels that are going in the case.

I'm gonna have this thing looking like that box Mr. Spock got irradiated in.
 
I found my missing steps issue!


My missing steps problem came back yesterday, so I turned the speeds down further.

Then halfway through an 4 hour print, the issue returned again. I decided to start taking it apart, as I had no intentions of reducing speeds any further.

While pulling belts to check the pulleys, I was moving the toolhead around by hand and noticed a crunchy sound. From the right side gantry Y linear rail.

After I got te rail off, sliding the shuttle felt like it was full of broken glass. So, i set it across a salad bowl and gently eased the shuttle off the end, and could immediately see two balls weren't in the shuttle. They were just resting in the dovetail, under the shuttle.

Now, I never took the shuttle off when I received the kit and built printer. When I got the rails out of the box i immediately taped the shuttle in place, and proceeded to grease and assemble. I even left the rubber screwhole plug/stoppers that prevent the shuttles from sliding off the ends, in place. I never had these things apart.

Lesson learned. Don't assume they're good-2-go without checking. So, check your linear bearings really good.

After 10 minutes of figuring out which side needed the balls the most, i got them back in-place, regreased and assembled the rail. It's smooth as butter now.

As soon as I get this thing reassembled, ill be cranking the speeds back up to full-blast!
 
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Great that you found that. Not too hard to fix, aside from quite a bit of disassembly.

I lubed the rails here with spray lithium grease from the back through a mounting hole into the carriage and moved them back and forth, then wiped off the excess. I left the rubber bumpers in until it was safe to remove them. They moved well so far.
 
AlanB said:
Great that you found that. Not too hard to fix, aside from quite a bit of disassembly.

I lubed the rails here with spray lithium grease from the back through a mounting hole into the carriage and moved them back and forth, then wiped off the excess. I left the rubber bumpers in until it was safe to remove them. They moved well so far.
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You know how to set up a webcam on Mainsail?

I got it plugged into the Orange Pi, but mainsail only shows a blank white screen.

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I haven't gotten that far. I would do some yewtoob searches, especially on Nero 3D and Steve Builds channels.
 
This video has some info on printing ABS and VOC exposures. Part of a Nero 3D series on printing ABS.

 
My package of four RH meters came. I put one into the Repbox and it now reads 10%, same as the mounted one, so they seem to stop at that value but do seem to be able to read down there. Put another one into my filament storage box which has 8 rolls of filament and two Eva Dry 333's, and it reads about 25% They all read about 33-35% out of the box so nothing wildly different to start with.
 
AlanB said:
My package of four RH meters came. I put one into the Repbox and it now reads 10%, same as the mounted one, so they seem to stop at that value but do seem to be able to read down there. Put another one into my filament storage box which has 8 rolls of filament and two Eva Dry 333's, and it reads about 25% They all read about 33-35% out of the box so nothing wildly different to start with.
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All the RH meters at the low end, seem to bottom out at around 10% if you are lucky. The best thing is to put in enough desiccant. Not 1 puny gram, but more like 100 gm minimum.

Your in spool canisters seem like a great idea. Beats me how to print that material though. For now, I am using cachet muslin cloth bags. The kinds of bags that women like to add stinky perfumed stuff to! I fill the bags until it just fits in the middle of the spool and tie it up. The bags are pretty cheap, bought 100 of them for about $10 or so. Think that is cheaper than printing them, although no where nice as the ones you showed. The muslin breathes well and contains the silica gel.
 
WobblyHand said:
All the RH meters at the low end, seem to bottom out at around 10% if you are lucky. The best thing is to put in enough desiccant. Not 1 puny gram, but more like 100 gm minimum.

Your in spool canisters seem like a great idea. Beats me how to print that material though. For now, I am using cachet muslin cloth bags. The kinds of bags that women like to add stinky perfumed stuff to! I fill the bags until it just fits in the middle of the spool and tie it up. The bags are pretty cheap, bought 100 of them for about $10 or so. Think that is cheaper than printing them, although no where nice as the ones you showed. The muslin breathes well and contains the silica gel.
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I have some organza bags, used for similar purposes and also inexpensive. Great for dessicant.

Clear PETG is not difficult to print. The biggest problem I've had with PETG is over-adhesion to smooth PEI. It ruined one of my PEI on glass surfaces. Now I always use some Aquanet on the PEI before printing PETG or TPU as they have a tendency to glue permanently to the PEI on random occasions.

These little RH gauges are very handy even if not accurate, they indicate when the desiccant is insufficient or exhausted. When they start drifting up toward the RH of the room you know it is time to refresh. I'll probably put some of these into the 5 gallon bucket gamma seal lids so I can tell when to refresh those.

I was working on the printbed installation and wiring and I noticed the cable chain was too short. LDO included a few extra links but nowhere is there a mention of which chain(s) they are for or to install them. I ended up adding one link to the bed chain, plus earlier I had to turn over one end which was also not instructed. Dancing between Voron instructions, BOM, Sourcing Guide, CAD Model, LDO addendum, wiring guide, printed parts list, and other information is a bit of a mess. I've made it worse by doing a few things in slightly different order, and by not having the right printed parts for the LDO kit. The LDO instructions were first developed for the 2.4 and the Trident is apparently an edit of that, and there are some things that weren't fixed or are missing. The LDO parts are excellent, the instructions are not easy.

One thing I want to do that neither instructions are set up for is to bring things up in stages. Start with AC wiring, bring up the 24V supply with no load, then bring up the Octopus and Pi but with no heaters hooked up. Verify things in stages. I'm still thinking about whether I want to try and print Stealthburner parts on the Prusa or finish this Afterburner which doesn't quite fit the LDO toolhead PCB.

The LDO kit includes some European DIN rail power wiring terminations. They are quite nice. They do use the WAGO connectors under the printbed and those are good also. Some of the wires are too long, some are almost too short. I wonder if they use the same wire lengths for the 2.4.
 
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