The Voron kit build thread

AlanB said:
The accelerometers (for input shaping) are inexpensive. The process collects some impressive data.

Also Nero recommends don't use stealth-chop mode, it is more prone to step loss. Use spread-cycle instead. Mentioning just in case.
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Ok, that's good info to know.

Klippers setup info says:

"It is recommended to always use "spreadCycle" mode (by not specifying stealthchop_threshold) or to always use "stealthChop" mode (by setting stealthchop_threshold to 999999)."

I looked at my config file, (obtained from the Voron resources page), and currently my steppers are set "stealthchop_threshold=0"



I'm not sure what "stealthchop_threshold=0" means, since the Klipper documentation doesn't indicate that as one of the options. Or, perhaps they consider stealthchop_threshold=0 to be "not specifying a stealthchop threshold". That seems inconsistent though, since z steppper 0 certainly counts as a stepper motor, I have a fan plugged into fan header zero, a heater plugged into heater header zero, etc.

When I get home from work this evening, I'll change that value by deleting the "stealthchop_threshold=0" line, and see what happens.
 
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From discussions on the V0.1 github it looks like setting it to zero does turn it off. Some people do use stealthchop but the consensus seems to be that it is more likely to lose steps.
 
AlanB said:
From discussions on the V0.1 github it looks like setting it to zero does turn it off. Some people do use stealthchop but the consensus seems to be that it is more likely to lose steps.
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Ok. I'll leave it be then.


I finished printing a set of 6 ws2812b neopixel strip holders. The code was generated with PrusaSlicer, ran overnight on the Voron (a 9 hour print).

It ran flawlessly.

Too bad I decided they don't quite look right in red. I gonna toss em and reprint in black.

Each needs two m3x8 socket head cap screws and two m3 t slot nuts.

My model, uploaded to Printables:






They are 6-3/8" long, so two will fit on each side of the 300mm Voron.

Printables

www.printables.com www.printables.com
 
I don't want to divert from this thread, as I am finding these builds fascinating. How did you learn about this stuff? How did you get the background to be able to do this? I find the info on accelerometers and resonant frequency pretty cool. But I don't know "authoritative sources" where to start to learn about this. Where's the mother lode?
 
I haven't dug into the papers on "input shaping" myself, though we did the same thing in advanced control systems long ago (basically tailor motions to avoid energizing system resonances), it's from engineering and math control theory. The Klipper software documentation would be one place to look, they probably have references to the papers. One doesn't need a deep background to build and use 3D printers, though optimizing designs for 3D printing has it's own bag of tricks. For me the journey started with wanting to make a particular part that was well suited to 3D printing, getting a printer and following a number of utube channels on the subject. At this point I find the 3D printer to be the best tool I ever bought (though I enjoy the lathe and mill too), it makes many useful items, tools and organizational aids. The 3D printer is much more automated than a CNC router or mill due to having it's own built-in material feed system. My own background is in electronics and software engineering, control systems, computers and networking, so the mechanical design part is new for me. Always fun to learn new stuff.
 
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I printed some perforated desiccant containers designed to fit in spool centers. I chose the shorter bottle and the perforated lid (not the lid with an RH meter). I measured 50g of indicator silica gel capacity in these. I printed them from clear PETG. Adding these to the cores of the spools in the Repbox brought the relative humidity down a bit lower than before, indicating 20%, but the main reason I did this was to increase desiccant capacity in the box. Now we have four 40g tins plus six 50g core bottles with desiccant in the Repbox. As I type this the RH went from about 24 after I opened the box and put the core bottles in, now dropping to 15% which is lower than I've seen it before. We've tripled the desiccant with this addition, and these are not in the way. The flat desiccant tins are harder to position, a full spool doesn't have room under it for a tin, so they are placed under less full spools. Eventually I may use the tins elsewhere and just use the in-core bottles in the Repbox. The tins also have much smaller airflow conductance than these 3d printed bottles. The bottles use an interesting weave design to make openings without stopping and starting the filament flow, so they print much faster than other designs.

1670797518593.png


Download files here: https://www.printables.com/model/67857-fast-print-in-spool-desiccant-silica-gel-container

One problem I had was this Polymaker filament comes on cardboard spools, and there was too much friction to feed it from the Repbox. So I'll have to make a better setup with bearings for feeding filament from the box. I'm working on a design for that.

On the Voron front, I've made a little progress with wiring and wire management. Have not spent much time on it lately.
 
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AlanB said:
I printed some perforated desiccant containers designed to fit in spool centers. I chose the shorter bottle and the perforated lid (not the lid with an RH meter). I measured 50g of indicator silica gel capacity in these. I printed them from clear PETG. Adding these to the cores of the spools in the Repbox brought the relative humidity down a bit lower than before, indicating 20%, but the main reason I did this was to increase desiccant capacity in the box. Now we have four 40g tins plus six 50g core bottles with desiccant in the Repbox. As I type this the RH went from about 24 after I opened the box and put the core bottles in, now dropping to 15% which is lower than I've seen it before. We've tripled the desiccant with this addition, and these are not in the way. The flat desiccant tins are harder to position, a full spool doesn't have room under it for a tin, so they are placed under less full spools. Eventually I may use the tins elsewhere and just use the in-core bottles in the Repbox. The tins also have much smaller airflow conductance than these 3d printed bottles. The bottles use an interesting weave design to make openings without stopping and starting the filament flow, so they print much faster than other designs.

View attachment 429603

Download files here: https://www.printables.com/model/67857-fast-print-in-spool-desiccant-silica-gel-container

One problem I had was this Polymaker filament comes on cardboard spools, and there was too much friction to feed it from the Repbox. So I'll have to make a better setup with bearings for feeding filament from the box. I'm working on a design for that.

On the Voron front, I've made a little progress with wiring and wire management. Have not spent much time on it lately.
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Good looking bottles. I just ordered a roll of clear ABS so I can print some diffusers for my light mounts.

I haven't used PETG much. I need to try some.

I've always had such good results with ABS that I've been too lazy to stray off the beaten path. I think I've used maybe, 2 rolls of PETG in the las 5 years.
 
I haven't tried ABS yet. My printer is in my spare bedroom office, so I only print PLA, TPU and PETG there. I'll probably set up a Voron in the garage for ABS/ASA where the fumes won't be in the house.

Wow, this RH has really dropped now to 10%. Just shows how poor those tin containers are at diffusion. I don't assume the meter is accurate, but I didn't know it would even read that low before this.
 
Perhaps the Nevermore active carbon filter will solve the fume issues, I will have to try that as well.
 
AlanB said:
Perhaps the Nevermore active carbon filter will solve the fume issues, I will have to try that as well.
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I've ever noticed any fumes.

There's just enough of a smell that I can tell something is printing, but only barely more noticeable than PLA.
 
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