Taps & Dies- what do you prefer?

[sasquatch]

Very good presentation on tap and die info. Thanks to all who participated!!!

 

[CharlieW]

Like others have said. I use spiral point taps and don't care much what brand. I only use other taps if that is all I have in a particular size.

Charlie W.

 

[Nelson]

Not to switch gears, but what do you guys think of those chinese Tapping machines, the ones with the handle on top that you turn, the counterweight, and the various attachments that hold the taps- they cost about $80?

I bought one of them, but haven't used it yet.

Are they any good, or should I toss it?

Thanks,


Nelson

 

[b.lindsey]

I use a little tapping fixture I made for anything from size 5-40 or smaller. Mainly it helps to keep the tap straight. The spindle is 3/8" drill rod with an adapter for a Starret #93A tap handle and rides in a 3/8" drill bushing for a guaranteed perfect fit. The only thing I (still) need to change is to make the brass finger wheel knurled instead of scalloped as it get a little hard on the fingers if tapping repeatedly. The rest is just made from a piece of steel for the base, a 1: dia piece of steel rod for the column, and a piece of aluminum for the adjustable arm. I purshaced the thumb screws but they could just as easily be made.

 

[Conrad Hoffman]

Starrett makes a high quality pin vise that I use for #4 and smaller. Just more comfortable than a T-handle and less apt to snap a tap. I've also got a cute thing by OK Tool with a center spot on one side. You insert the tap opposite the center spot and it slides to line up with the tail of the tap. The handle gets screwed in to clamp it. The whole thing is then used on the lathe, with the tailstock center to keep it lined up. Or so I believe. My guess is it's pretty old.

 

[Tony Wells]

You guys should try one of these sometime:

 

[Tony Wells]

Yeah, it's a SpeedyCut tapping machine. Geared lead and all. Very slick for production tapping. Done thousands upon thousands of 2-56 and 4-40 holes with one just like that one. It is good for up to 5/16" taps. That's a bench model, but they come in several sizes and styles, horizontal, etc. Not cheap, but can make a tons of money of you have lots of small holes in parts you can handle. I just oiled the table and floated the parts, or a vise holding the parts. There is a foot pedal that actuates it one cycle at a time, or you can have it repeat until you stop it. In that mode, holding the foot pedal down stops the spindle, which freewheels at the top of the stroke. Stroke is adjustable. Takes a bit of nerve at first, but it really great once you get used to it.

Their site:

http://www.speedycut.com/

 

[Tony Wells]

Oh, definitely more outlay, not practical at all for a hobbyist. That model is about $4k.

 

[Nelson]

This is the inexpensive tapping machine I got except I got mine from Harbor Freight- same machine as Grizzly's:

 

[Frank Ford]

I got the same one some years ago. As I began to realize how useful it is, I made extra tap holders and a pair of racks to hold them on the back of the arm, so I have #8 - 1/2" spiral point "gun" taps in both NC and NF, loaded and ready to go:



If you look at the crank, you'll see I added a third handle - it makes it really fast to spin the tap back up out of the hole. The tapper is bolted to the bench, and I drilled a hole under the hole in the machine so chips fall through, out of the way.