Tablesaw talk

[ErichKeane]

I dislike the thin kerf blades when you have enough power to run full kerf. Thin kerf blades tend to wonder a bit and give you a less flat surface when cutting at depth.

 

[jocat54]

I use both thin and full kerf (flat top) blades depending on what I am cutting at the time. Kind of a pain to change blades in the middle of project sometimes Found the best prices on Amazon.

 

[Winegrower]

The thin kerf rip blades I have used all can give a very slight vibration that lasts for a few inches of travel. Normally I think you would not notice a few thousandths of variation in the cut width, but the quality of the glue line blades are so heightened that this is noticeable and I think objectionable. The full kerf blades don’t do this.

 

[whitmore]

I have an older Dewalt jobsite tablesaw,...
My purpose for a tablesaw has been primarily to rip sheet goods.

For cutting sheets, a track saw (put the sheet on sawhorses, clamp the track onto it) or a panel saw
(slanted-near-vertical frame, saw moves on vertical/horizontal rails) are easier than a table saw.
Mainly, the better table saws will sag the floor and occupy the best part of it, while you
strain to push a 4'x8' sheet through it.

It doesn't seem like you need an upgrade (unless
there's a production bottleneck involved).

p.s. it's fairly easy to make a straight rail of plywood with a table saw and rip fence, and screw a rib onto one edge,
then make a sled for a skilsaw that engages that rib. The big problem, is ensuring the skilsaw is set to an
accurate right angle.

 

[jwmay]

t doesn't seem like you need an upgrade

I’m leaning this way as well. One issue I had with the saw was a belief that I couldn’t run a dado blade. After reading the manual, I’ve discovered that limitation doesn’t exist. I’ve orde

 

[jwmay]

Ordered a new blade. Not sure what I did to break this into two posts.
Anyways, I am keeping an eye out for a really good deal on a hybrid saw with cast iron top. I’m the meantime, the internet is offering several mods that will make this saw more useful.

 

[chips&more]

I have done my fair share of cabinet work. I can’t understand all the love that goes around for the Unifence and the like. I’m talking about the rip fence that only clamps on the operator side of the saw. Ie: if you are trying to cut an awkward piece of sheet goods. You will more than likely push on the outer end of the rip fence AND IT WILL FLEX because it is not clamped down. It will flex with any pushing…enough said. I personally will only use the older style Delta rip fence that clamps at both ends. When clamped down it’s rock solid…my 3 cents.

 

[WCraig]

I have done my fair share of cabinet work. I can’t understand all the love that goes around for the Unifence and the like. I’m talking about the rip fence that only clamps on the operator side of the saw. Ie: if you are trying to cut an awkward piece of sheet goods. You will more than likely push on the outer end of the rip fence AND IT WILL FLEX because it is not clamped down. It will flex with any pushing…enough said. I personally will only use the older style Delta rip fence that clamps at both ends. When clamped down it’s rock solid…my 3 cents.

You're saying you prefer the Jet-Lock style of fence with the round tubes? Like this:
Fence_01 by Craig T, on Flickr

Pretty much any fence can be made to work. With the Jet-Lock, they do secure at both ends...but it is easy to lock the fence out of parallel with the blade.

With the Unifence (or really, any fence), you should not need to apply a lot of sideways pressure to the work as it going through the cut. Just enough to keep it up against the fence. What sideways pressure is applied should be just before the leading edge of the blade (like with a feather board)--never further back since this can push the offcut side into the blade with dangerous results!

Craig
PS I sold my Jet-Lock fence several years ago.

 

[chips&more]

You're saying you prefer the Jet-Lock style of fence with the round tubes? Like this:
Fence_01 by Craig T, on Flickr

Pretty much any fence can be made to work. With the Jet-Lock, they do secure at both ends...but it is easy to lock the fence out of parallel with the blade.

With the Unifence (or really, any fence), you should not need to apply a lot of sideways pressure to the work as it going through the cut. Just enough to keep it up against the fence. What sideways pressure is applied should be just before the leading edge of the blade (like with a feather board)--never further back since this can push the offcut side into the blade with dangerous results!

Craig
PS I sold my Jet-Lock fence several years ago.

 

[chips&more]

You're saying you prefer the Jet-Lock style of fence with the round tubes? Like this:
Fence_01 by Craig T, on Flickr

Pretty much any fence can be made to work. With the Jet-Lock, they do secure at both ends...but it is easy to lock the fence out of parallel with the blade.

With the Unifence (or really, any fence), you should not need to apply a lot of sideways pressure to the work as it going through the cut. Just enough to keep it up against the fence. What sideways pressure is applied should be just before the leading edge of the blade (like with a feather board)--never further back since this can push the offcut side into the blade with dangerous results!

Craig
PS I sold my Jet-Lock fence several years ago.

If the fence is properly tuned up. You will have the front clamp first and that will also square the fence. Then, as you clamp more down, the rear clamp will tighten. I have no problem will parallel…never. I push the offcut (as you call it) all the time against the fence. It’s not dangerous, if you know what you are doing. I don’t like kerf gouging and burning. Good Luck…Dave