Tablesaw talk

[dbq49]

The Craftsman table saw I got for graduation from college is still in the basement. Started a remodeling business and got a Delta contractors saw. Nice cast iron top for stability and put wheel barrow wheels on it to make it portable out of the pickup back. Still needed a ramp to get it out of the truck and then it had to sit out side because of not being able to take it up stairs and such. Finally settled on a Makita 8" portable saw and had to make an add on table top to get the table top to 24" wide to rip sheet goods. I can carry it anywhere. I build a panel saw like above and it sat around for years. I agree with sliding tables and outfeed tables to make life safe. Free hand cuts are not YOUR friend.

 

[MikeInOr]

For cutting down full sheets you might want to consider a track saw. A track saw is much easier for cutting down large sheets and makes very acurate and clean cuts... better than I can do pushing a full sheet through my cabinet saw by myself without someone to help.

Festool is kind of the original track saw and one of the most popular. I like the Makita track saw... which can run on a Festool track.

A track saw can't cut dados, rabbits or tennons like a table saw can so it is kind of nice to have both. I prefer the left hand blade tilt of my Powermatic cabinet saws over Delta's right hand blade tilt... but this is just personal preference and has a lot to do with what you are used to. A good fence almost makes more of a difference than a good saw. The beseymer T square style fences are great for setting really accurate cuts really quick. On occasion it is nice to have a fence that locks on the rear as well as the front... but the T square type would probably be my first choice.

Since you already have a usable table saw you might consider purchasing a track saw before investing in a cabinet saw.

 

[jwmay]

Thanks everyone! I appreciate all the thoughts and ideas.

 

[Eddyde]

I was in the custom cabinet/millwork and general construction/carpentry business for over 30 years. I agree with all those above recommending a proper cabinet saw with T square (Bessmeyer) style fence. Nothing beats cast-iron for sucking up saw blade and motor vibrations. Try to get at least a true 2 hp motor, Yes this will mean 220v but it's worth it.
No blade does it all, get at least, a ripping blade for ripping solid hardwood and a good veneer plywood blade, if you plan on cutting a lot of particle board/melamine get a separate blade for that as it will murder your plywood blade. Keep em sharp, it's a good idea to get a pair of your most used blades so one can be sent out for sharpening with out shutting you down. You don't need to spring $200 apiece for industrial blades but stay away from the big box store, "blister pack" blade specials.
Above all, work safe.

 

[Winegrower]

A couple years ago, after a few decades of working with a small portable table saw, I bought a Powermatic PM2000 with the big table extension and a built in router lift. Wow, this is a huge step up for both saw and router work. I am really pleased with the Freud glue-line rip blade, their “dial-a-width” dado set, and how easy it is to use the router lift...literally work in a few thousandths or less. The dado adjusts in .004” per click. And I added a Wixey digital readout to the saw fence, as I’ve done to the planer too. And a crosscut sled is far more precise than my miter saw.

This moves woodworking closer to metal working. I suppose that is either appealing or not, depending on your interests.

Now I can make cuts that are precisely one inch too short.

 

[JohnG]

I've had a Beach table saw since about 1982. This is a factory saw, built like a machine tool. I still enjoy working with a small cabinet saw which several writers have recommended. They compare favorably to a larger industrial saw so long as you aren't ripping a lot of 8/4 hardwood. I find a jobsite saw unnerving for any job due to the vibration. Weight and stability are all important in a saw both for accuracy and safety in my opinion.

 

[Choiliefan]

I have 3-phase Delta Unisaw and 16" RAS under tarps outside because there's no room for them in the shop.
Inside there's an older Ryobi BT3100 which has a sliding table for cross-cutting and an exceptionally well-designed fence. Its accurate for the small things I make but a wobble-type dado blade shakes the heck out of it.
If you can't afford or have the space for an Oliver or Tannewitz, get a Unisaw and live happily ever after.

 

[ErichKeane]

The Powermatic 66 is IMO the best tablesaw ever made. I've heard that the PM2000 is a good successor to it. I had a 3 HP (3 phase) that could take on anything I threw at it. I had a Biesmeyer style fence (which is an absolute necessity!). The Unisaw is also quite nice, but I am not a big fan of the Unifence that these come with.

I ended up selling my PM66 for a song/dance and "upgraded" to a 5hp Sawstop ICS for the safety feature (having a new baby + an accident changed what I value). The 3 HP PM66 is better in every way than the 5 HP Sawstop other than the safety mechanism.

 

[woodtickgreg]

I'm just a hobbiest wood worker as much as I am a hobbiest metal worker. I still have the very first craftsman table saw that I purchased when I was fresh out of high school. It has served me well, I have rebuilt it once, reground the cast iron top, and upgraded the fence to a T square style. I added an out feed table and side extension and I can cross cut and RIP sheet goods by myself accurately and safely. I intend to mount 3 routers in the tables. If I was to purchase another saw I would look at a used delta or powermatic. Grizzly saws offer a lot of bang for the buck too. My dream saw would be a saw stop but 3k is a bit out of my budget.

 

[Winegrower]

I am thinking a cheaper saw with a huge table beats a more expensive saw with a dinky table.
But the router lift is life changing.