Split phase 110v motor

cross thread

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Both split phase motors and capacitor start motors have an extra start winding. Once up to speed, both motors will disconnect the start winding. The difference is that the split phase will use a resistance in its winding whereas the capacitor start uses the capacitor. Split phase motors are used in fans and dryers. The problem with split phase is that they have a low starting torque whereas capacitor start motors have a much higher starting torque. That the reason that many lathes, milling machines and especially air compressors use capacitor start motors.
 
Dayton motors can be difficult to wire for reversing, as I mentioned earlier. A split phase motor might struggle starting with the machine belt set for the highest spindle speed, especially on 120 volt power, so it's best to stick with a capacitor start motor
 
From what I think , a good replacement motor for my Benchmaster bench mill would be a 1/2 hp w/capacitor , 1725 rpm and it has to be a 1/2 shaft and a 56 frame . Because there is no load when starting would a non capacitor motor work ?
Also here is the big thing for me seems my options are few , I'm searching with google . Anyone know a good source ?
Thanks , Mark .
 
You're really going to want a cap start, Mark. It's the only practical way for 110v machine tools.

I have used Surplus Center for these types of things for many years, even pre-internet.

 
The motor shown in post #1 looks to be a sort of hybrid- the capacitor isn't for starting but probably helps efficiency. Might be worth a try, but make sure you can return it if it isn't suitable
 
IMHO That motor isn't really suitable for a machine tool, its meant for fan or blower duty. As others said, a capacitor start is the best way to go. I also prefer enclosed motors around machines producing metal chips. However, If you are only using it lightly and can keep it clean you probably get away way with it.
Here is another good site for motors.
 
After reading Markba's answer, decided to take another look at post #1. Yes, this motor does have a capacitor in it, however the specs say this motor is used mainly for air conditioning. It most likely does not have a centrifugal switch in it. Since the motor has to run a compressor, the capacitor is just big enough to give it the starting torque that it needs. The capacitor has to be small enough, so it won't burn up because there is no switch so it acts sort like a running cap. The problem with these motors is that they about 65% efficient. Whereas a capacitor start motor can be at least 70% to over 90% efficient. What happens to that 35%, it becomes heat. The air conditioner manufacturers can get away with this because they put on a big honker fan. That fan pushes the heat away from the coils for the AC to work and also keeps the motor cool.
Some of you are going to ask why some motors have two capacitors and the one is on the run winding. Let's talk about the run winding. To get power out of electricity, you need to have both current and voltage. To get maximum power on AC, the current and voltage need to be in phase or in sync. On a resistor load such as a heater, no problem. A motor is an inductor. It delays the current in respect to the voltage. They are out of phase so less power. A capacitor delays the voltage. By matching up the proper size capacitor with motor, they are in phase. The motor then runs more efficiently.
Now back to you cross thread, this is why I highly recommend a capacitor start motor.
 
While the motor specs do say HVAC, I believe it is meant for fan or blower duty, not for a compressor.
 
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