Small clamps?

I have four small aluminum C clamps that I use fairly often. They range from 5/8" throat, 7/8" opening to 1-1/4" throat, 1-3/8
opening and are made from 1/2" stock. I use them for holding small pieces together while I drill mating holes, for work stops on my vise when machining multiple pieces amongst other things. They are perhaps the most used clamps in my shop.
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I’ve got the same set, had for longer than I can guess. I do recall that they were sold by X-Acto as modeling C-Clamps, and I thought they claimed to be made out of Magnesium (they are really light).

While I don’t use often, they are very handy, and there are times I wish I had a second set since you usually need to use in matched pairs. I guess I should add to my list for Cabin Fever.
 
Now knowing what these are, I'll have to scour the internet because I can't see how these small clamps could used for part holding during machining.
See this post for some examples of how 4” parallel & even smaller Kant-Twist clamps can be used: Small Clamps in Use
 
I’ve got the same set, had for longer than I can guess. I do recall that they were sold by X-Acto as modeling C-Clamps, and I thought they claimed to be made out of Magnesium (they are really light).

While I don’t use often, they are very handy, and there are times I wish I had a second set since you usually need to use in matched pairs. I guess I should add to my list for Cabin Fever.
I believe you're correct. I bought a bunch of Exacto tools at the time. I bought mine in the art department at the University Book Store in Madison, WI some time before 1970. I believe you're correct about the magnesium as well. I measured the average density of the clamps at 2.47 g/cc. Considering the screws are steel and that aluminum has a density of 2.7 g/cc and magnesium is 1.74, the smoking gun points to magnesium.
 
I believe you're correct. I bought a bunch of Exacto tools at the time. I bought mine in the art department at the University Book Store in Madison, WI some time before 1970. I believe you're correct about the magnesium as well. I measured the average density of the clamps at 2.47 g/cc. Considering the screws are steel and that aluminum has a density of 2.7 g/cc and magnesium is 1.74, the smoking gun points to magnesium.
Timing sounds about right, I probably got mine in the early 80’s. Material also checks: steel screw, swivel looks to be Aluminum (no oxidation) and body has light oxidation, so a different material.

Couldn’t find on eBay, Etsy or any of the model making sites.
 
I kind of like Kant twist better, but both have their place. I use these 3/4" ones a lot
 

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I kind of like Kant twist better, but both have their place. I use these 3/4" ones a lot
The 1" are as small as I have, and I agree they are handy. The best feature the Kant-Twist clamps have is being able to locate them so that the handle doesn't get in the way.
 
Clamps for clamping work!
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A perfect example John. I have even used 2 pair to make a temporary vice on my table. I used one to clamp the other to the table and put the work on the one that was being held down. I agree they have awesome clamping power. I have some that got bent by heating and falling to the floor and I need to drill the bent screws out and make new ones. In my opinion you never have too many clamps or too many types. I have everything from Vice Grip style clamps to cheap H/F mini-CEE clamps and go up from there. I have one Bessy Brand that I paid over $50 for 20+ years ago.
 
I have four small aluminum C clamps that I use fairly often. They range from 5/8" throat, 7/8" opening to 1-1/4" throat, 1-3/8
opening and are made from 1/2" stock. I use them for holding small pieces together while I drill mating holes, for work stops on my vise when machining multiple pieces amongst other things. They are perhaps the most used clamps in my shop.
View attachment 432047
RJ I am curious as to how you staked or hold the screw to the aluminum foot. I am assuming you can crank the screw in or out and hold the foot in position.
 
The pad has a counterbore. After the screw was inserted, the end was swaged to expant the tip and hold the screw captive. The pattern indicated that the swage punch had a cross shaped tip, like a Phillips screwdriver with the very top flattened. I suspect that there was some kind of jig used to hold the swage and a press was used.
 
The pad has a counterbore. After the screw was inserted, the end was swaged to expant the tip and hold the screw captive. The pattern indicated that the swage punch had a cross shaped tip, like a Phillips screwdriver with the very top flattened. I suspect that there was some kind of jig used to hold the swage and a press was used.
The punch probably looked something like this:

Offset Inside Punch.png
 
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