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Simple Rotary Table
- Thread starter rdean
- Start date
I used an aluminum plate 3.5 X 0.250 X 12" long I had left over from another project. I was able to get all three out of this one piece.
The small holes were made with a center drill and then an end mill for the cutouts all done on my CNC mill. I would hate to think how I would have done it accurately on a manual mill.
Thanks
Ray
The small holes were made with a center drill and then an end mill for the cutouts all done on my CNC mill. I would hate to think how I would have done it accurately on a manual mill.
Thanks
Ray
Looks great Ray. Very cool project.
Is the threaded "worm" gear steel? Having made several equatorial telescope mounts and tracking drives for Dobson telescopes I have found that brass/steel, brass/aluminum. brass/brass, brass/HDPE and Steel HDPE work well for worm drives. Steel on aluminum needs good lubrication to keep from galling.
Is the threaded "worm" gear steel? Having made several equatorial telescope mounts and tracking drives for Dobson telescopes I have found that brass/steel, brass/aluminum. brass/brass, brass/HDPE and Steel HDPE work well for worm drives. Steel on aluminum needs good lubrication to keep from galling.
Aluminum has arrived!
I had ordered two plates 6 X 1 so if I messed up the first one I would have another chance to make it right but I didn't need it. The plate turned out right the first time and now I have a garbage bag full of aluminum chips.
The top section of the plate is 6" X 5/8" thick. I originally wanted it to be 3/4" thick but that didn't leave much room above the worm brackets but by making it thinner I was able to press the plate further on to the spindle. So all is well.
I changed the finger lock so it would hold position without tipping the outer finger. I found a brass nut for the fingers to replace the plastic one. I also shined up some of the pieces.
Here it is so far.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I had ordered two plates 6 X 1 so if I messed up the first one I would have another chance to make it right but I didn't need it. The plate turned out right the first time and now I have a garbage bag full of aluminum chips.
The top section of the plate is 6" X 5/8" thick. I originally wanted it to be 3/4" thick but that didn't leave much room above the worm brackets but by making it thinner I was able to press the plate further on to the spindle. So all is well.
I changed the finger lock so it would hold position without tipping the outer finger. I found a brass nut for the fingers to replace the plastic one. I also shined up some of the pieces.
Here it is so far.
Thanks for looking
Ray
No problem, been there done that.
Also in precision applications the where the worm gear is turning or supporting a load there is usually some type of thrust bearing(s) or AC bearings because the worm wheel is applying an axial force to the worm gear. If you are just indexing and locking the table then it is not as much of an issue.
The small parts take the most time and sometimes you need to even start over.
Here are the parts for the lock I made.
This shows them mounted. I do not like that black knob it has to go, later.
Here are the parts for the worm shaft brake and a pin to lock the table horizontal or vertical position.
I will just use a protractor to set the table at any other angle when needed.
Table lock pin for horizontal position. The hole for vertical is on the other side.
More tomorrow.
Thanks for looking
Ray
Here are the parts for the lock I made.
This shows them mounted. I do not like that black knob it has to go, later.
Here are the parts for the worm shaft brake and a pin to lock the table horizontal or vertical position.
I will just use a protractor to set the table at any other angle when needed.
Table lock pin for horizontal position. The hole for vertical is on the other side.
More tomorrow.
Thanks for looking
Ray
This picture shows how the table brake is assembled. It pushes against the table spindle land above the worm wheel.
This is how I cut the divisions using the bed of my lathe. I messed up on the first try so I cut them off and had another go.
360 marks of different lengths was quite a job but I only made a couple of minor oops.
After a little bit of sanding than a coat of paint. (wife's finger nail polish)
This is the result.
They are not all perfect but they turned out better than I had hoped.
I don't think I will try to number them now as that never turns out very well for me and I am not sure it is needed.
The long lines are 90 degrees apart and the next shorter ones are every 5 degrees. It should be easy enough to figure out.
Thanks for the likes everyone and thanks for looking.
Ray
This is how I cut the divisions using the bed of my lathe. I messed up on the first try so I cut them off and had another go.
360 marks of different lengths was quite a job but I only made a couple of minor oops.
After a little bit of sanding than a coat of paint. (wife's finger nail polish)
This is the result.
They are not all perfect but they turned out better than I had hoped.
I don't think I will try to number them now as that never turns out very well for me and I am not sure it is needed.
The long lines are 90 degrees apart and the next shorter ones are every 5 degrees. It should be easy enough to figure out.
Thanks for the likes everyone and thanks for looking.
Ray