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Restoring Jet 1024PY
- Thread starter wframe13
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2017
- Messages
- 47
Thanks! This gave me an idea. I made an oil separator for the end of my vacuum hose: using a plastic peanut butter jar, drilled 2 holes in top, small clear plastic hose from vacuum into top of a jar, another piece of hose through the top that reaches to the bottom of jar, use the piece that goes to the bottom as the pick-up hose. Oil collects in the bottom of the jar and doesn't get to the vacuum. Works like a sawdust separator for wood shop. Worked like a charm.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2017
- Messages
- 47
Things are moving along. Broken quick change cover and selector are with my cousin, a professional welder. Both of the chucks have been thoughly cleaned, lubed and reassembled. The carriage has been completely disassembled and cleaned including removing and disassembling the bent crossfeed screw. Meeting with a machinist to discuss how to fabricate a new bracket for holding the bearings and the crossfeed screw and what to do to replace the bent crossfeed screw. This is going to be a slow process, but it is definitely interesting and educational!
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
You may not need this, but some pictures for future reference by others.
A spare sight glass looking down, outer face at the top. A small collar at the top. Held in place by the O ring.
The sight glass next to the spindle in my G9249 lathe. A sharp edge behind the sight glass such as a pocket knife should pry this out.
This sight glass is slowly leaking oil out the front. Slow enough to not show in the picture, but if I wipe my finger underneath I can see a film of oil. I will eventually replace this. Not enough of a leak to replace at present.
A spare sight glass looking down, outer face at the top. A small collar at the top. Held in place by the O ring.
The sight glass next to the spindle in my G9249 lathe. A sharp edge behind the sight glass such as a pocket knife should pry this out.
This sight glass is slowly leaking oil out the front. Slow enough to not show in the picture, but if I wipe my finger underneath I can see a film of oil. I will eventually replace this. Not enough of a leak to replace at present.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 2,163
Dave if the sight glass is still in good shape, remove, Clean out and then put a thin coat of clear silicon on the back side of the edge, Then reinstall. It should seal up the slow leak. They do not look the same as the ones in mine. But they may be the same size hole. I have a couple of small pieces of plastic broken off the edge of one.
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
I may try that. The sight glass is clear so in good shape other than the slight leak.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2017
- Messages
- 47
Dave, any chance you could measure the crossfeed screw on your Grizzly? Trying to determine if it would fit my Jet. I need overall length, length of threaded portion, and lengths of the various sections that are not threaded. If it is too much trouble don't bother. Thanks.
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
I will take a look to see if I can remove the lead screw without having to remove the saddle. Not clear from the parts diagram how the lead screw is removed or what needs to be taken off to get it out. I will let you know later.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2017
- Messages
- 47
Again, only if it is not too much work! And certainly do not take the time to disassemble the seat and bearing assembly (# 414, 415, 416, & 418).
If it is anything like mine, the screw assembly should come out the front. I think you will have to remove the hand crank (#423) to get to the mounting screws (#417). Then you should be able to unthread it from the nut (#437) and take it out.
If you do get the screw out, the critical measurement (I think) are:
A : Overall length
B : Length of threaded portion of shaft
C : Threads to shoulder for bearing (or from end to bearing shoulder
D : Shoulder to hand crank end of shaft
E : Diameter of bearing shaft
F : Outer Diameter of threads
And, again, please do not go to very much effort to get these dimensions!!
- Joined
- May 10, 2014
- Messages
- 819
It was easy to remove the entire assembly. Set screw to remove the hand crank, then two cap screws and then just turn the lead screw all the way out.
I do not have a spanner or "C" wrench (or whatever the name of this wench) for the locknuts so did not remove. I did not want to take a screwdriver to these.
FYI, removing the lead screw made me aware of a lubrication point for the power feed / thread feed selector. It is not totally obscured when the lead screw is in place, but sufficient I did not notice this before.
Dimensions per your markup of the parts image
A. Overall length approx 15.5in
B. Main threaded section approx 8.375in. Diameter is 14mm.
C. Shoulder to threads on main section 2.236in
D. Front of screw to shoulder after gear 4.79in
E. Diameter of smaller threaded section not accessible, but the threads are 12mm, so I expect unthreaded diameter is the same.
I hope this helps.
I do not have a spanner or "C" wrench (or whatever the name of this wench) for the locknuts so did not remove. I did not want to take a screwdriver to these.
FYI, removing the lead screw made me aware of a lubrication point for the power feed / thread feed selector. It is not totally obscured when the lead screw is in place, but sufficient I did not notice this before.
Dimensions per your markup of the parts image
A. Overall length approx 15.5in
B. Main threaded section approx 8.375in. Diameter is 14mm.
C. Shoulder to threads on main section 2.236in
D. Front of screw to shoulder after gear 4.79in
E. Diameter of smaller threaded section not accessible, but the threads are 12mm, so I expect unthreaded diameter is the same.
I hope this helps.