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Press Feeder
- Thread starter JimDawson
- Start date
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- Sep 28, 2013
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Unless I find something really pressing that needs to be done, I may just take the week off.
that's a pun I'd be proud of Jim
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- Feb 8, 2014
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OK, moving right along.......
This is where I left it on Mar 23, then it turned winter again.
Today was the first nice day we've had in two weeks. Been practicing my social distancing by just staying home. So do the finish sanding/grinding and wipe down for paint.
Forklifts make a great adjustable height paint rack
And done
Got a couple of parts installed, those pieces fit as planned, I hope the rest fit. I sent all of the aluminum pieces out for anodize along with a batch of about 800 of our aluminum camper parts, so the cost was only about a buck each for my parts.
Here is me doing my best impression of a horizontal drill press. I love my Milwaukee Fuel drills, that 4.5 inch Milwaukee Fuel grinder works well also, pretty happy with it. Had to drill 1 1/4'' deep in steel, and tap 1/2-13 for the 3 attaching bolts. Actually went pretty quick, used one of my HF cobalt bits.
I had to shim the top of the plate because I cut the plate a little short and didn't catch it when I set it up for the milling work. So about 0.045 of sheet metal fixed it right up. Just zipped it off with a cutoff wheel on the grinder. As they say, ''File to Fit, Paint to Match''
Done
And Done
So tomorrow I'll finish painting the back side and get this assembly put together. Have a little machining to do on a couple of other parts, then wire it up, build the guards.....And ready to ship. Should be all done by the end of the week.
This is where I left it on Mar 23, then it turned winter again.
Today was the first nice day we've had in two weeks. Been practicing my social distancing by just staying home. So do the finish sanding/grinding and wipe down for paint.
Forklifts make a great adjustable height paint rack
And done
Got a couple of parts installed, those pieces fit as planned, I hope the rest fit. I sent all of the aluminum pieces out for anodize along with a batch of about 800 of our aluminum camper parts, so the cost was only about a buck each for my parts.
Here is me doing my best impression of a horizontal drill press. I love my Milwaukee Fuel drills, that 4.5 inch Milwaukee Fuel grinder works well also, pretty happy with it. Had to drill 1 1/4'' deep in steel, and tap 1/2-13 for the 3 attaching bolts. Actually went pretty quick, used one of my HF cobalt bits.
I had to shim the top of the plate because I cut the plate a little short and didn't catch it when I set it up for the milling work. So about 0.045 of sheet metal fixed it right up. Just zipped it off with a cutoff wheel on the grinder. As they say, ''File to Fit, Paint to Match''
Done
And Done
So tomorrow I'll finish painting the back side and get this assembly put together. Have a little machining to do on a couple of other parts, then wire it up, build the guards.....And ready to ship. Should be all done by the end of the week.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,176
First order of business today was to modify the pot to control the system speed. This is a standard VFD speed pot form Automation Direct. But it won't quite work for this application. But for this we have machine tools.
So make a new adapter shaft to fit the bearing block I made a few weeks ago. Had a piece of 1/2'' 303 stainless on the shelf, perfect for this application.
And assembled
And the brains of the system. Anodizing sure makes the parts look nice, a lot more professional and finished
And in place on the machine. Looks like I need to shorten the switch brackets a bit.
The motor mount adapter plate and bearing housing. The bearing sits 1/8'' proud to align the adapter to the center line, the hole in the main plate is a tight slip fit on the bearing.
And in place.
And the front side. The shaft is supported in two bearings, one on either side.
I need to machine a couple of spacers to set the proper spacing on the drive roller then install the motor. I normally leave things like spacers and shims for last to be fabbed during assembly as needed. That insures that everything fits properly on final assembly.
So tomorrow I should have all of the mechanical done, and if I have enough energy I may get the wiring done also. I'm old and slow, so things take a bit longer. I only work about 6 hrs/day these days.
So make a new adapter shaft to fit the bearing block I made a few weeks ago. Had a piece of 1/2'' 303 stainless on the shelf, perfect for this application.
And assembled
And the brains of the system. Anodizing sure makes the parts look nice, a lot more professional and finished
And in place on the machine. Looks like I need to shorten the switch brackets a bit.
The motor mount adapter plate and bearing housing. The bearing sits 1/8'' proud to align the adapter to the center line, the hole in the main plate is a tight slip fit on the bearing.
And in place.
And the front side. The shaft is supported in two bearings, one on either side.
I need to machine a couple of spacers to set the proper spacing on the drive roller then install the motor. I normally leave things like spacers and shims for last to be fabbed during assembly as needed. That insures that everything fits properly on final assembly.
So tomorrow I should have all of the mechanical done, and if I have enough energy I may get the wiring done also. I'm old and slow, so things take a bit longer. I only work about 6 hrs/day these days.
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,176
So I started to install the motor but one coupling half that I got from McMaster was a 14mm rather than the 5/8 I ordered. Somebody stocked the bin incorrectly and the parts puller didn't catch it. Oh well, I have a lathe and can fix that.
I couldn't ream it because I don't have a spiral flute 5/8 reamer and you can't ream a bore with a keyway with a straight flute reamer. The part that I ordered was not supposed to have a keyway either.
So need to bore it. But with the split, it needs to be shimmed so it doesn't collapse in the chuck. So a couple feeler gauge leaves is the perfect solution.
So got it pretty much assembled
And another view
And a closeup of the works. Top center rear screw is the spring tension adjuster. Top center front screw is the lifting screw to open for loading, uses a cam lever to lift.
I'll get the guard built tomorrow, and maybe get it wired.
Stay tuned..........
Oh well, I have a lathe and can fix that.I couldn't ream it because I don't have a spiral flute 5/8 reamer and you can't ream a bore with a keyway with a straight flute reamer. The part that I ordered was not supposed to have a keyway either.
So need to bore it. But with the split, it needs to be shimmed so it doesn't collapse in the chuck. So a couple feeler gauge leaves is the perfect solution.So got it pretty much assembled
And another view
And a closeup of the works. Top center rear screw is the spring tension adjuster. Top center front screw is the lifting screw to open for loading, uses a cam lever to lift.
I'll get the guard built tomorrow, and maybe get it wired.
Stay tuned..........
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,395
you're looking younger Jim
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,395
well, that's never going to be a problem for me with my 2 girls
looks like you have an even more awesome fab shop there than when I saw it back in '15 or so!
looks like you have an even more awesome fab shop there than when I saw it back in '15 or so!
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 11,176
well, that's never going to be a problem for me with my 2 girls
looks like you have an even more awesome fab shop there than when I saw it back in '15 or so!
We have added some equipment.
