Precision Matthews PM-833TV vs ????

[verbotenwhisky]

It has landed

View attachment 506854

Sweet, That is awesome. Did you just get a base package?

 

[jlficken]

Sweet, That is awesome. Did you just get a base package?

Thanks!

Yeah I cheaped out for now as my original budget for the machine itself was $3K shipped and this far exceed that.

I’ll add an X axis power feed, quill DRO, and 3-axis DRO in that order as funds allow.

It was also less scary putting the strap on the head to lift it without all of the DRO stuff on there.

Cranking the Z axis up and down didn’t seem to be a big deal so I’ll forego that most likely and spend that money on a better vise since I don’t have high hopes for the Vevor that’s on there. The jaws are at least straight on it but the rest is rather meh.

 

[coolidge]

It has landed!!

I’m wondering if the oiler may have a leak, however, everything else seems awesome.

X has .002” of backlash, Y has .006” of backlash, and X has .003” of backlash.

It was caked in that greasy stuff so I cleaned everything I could find and oiled all of the axis screws.

View attachment 506854

Congrats on your new mill day! About the perfect size for your workbench. Did you coat the bottom of your vise? Galvanic corrosion under the vise is not uncommon. Teflon based grease to inhibit this. Nothing more deflating than to remove your vice and see a patch of corrosion under it.

The galvanic corrosion was nearly instantaneous between my shiny new mill and new Kurt vise earlier this year. Now I remove the vise after each use.

 

[jlficken]

Congrats on your new mill day! About the perfect size for your workbench. Did you coat the bottom of your vise? Galvanic corrosion under the vise is not uncommon. Teflon based grease to inhibit this. Nothing more deflating than to remove your vice and see a patch of corrosion under it.

The galvanic corrosion was nearly instantaneous between my shiny new mill and new Kurt vise earlier this year. Now I remove the vise after each use.

Thanks!!

I just trammed it which was rather annoying. It took me 6 or 7 times loosening, tapping on the head, and then tightening the head again to get it within .0015” measuring about 16” apart with 1 point in the front of the table and the other on the back of the table using Blondihacks method. The one but being up in the hole on the bottom is a pain too.

Hopefully that’s close enough and I’m not missing a simpler method?

I did coat the bottom of the vise in way oil but I have many different kinds of grease I could use as well. It has to come off again once I get the correct bolts for the table so I’ll see what I have around. Thanks for the tip!

 

[coolidge]

Thanks!!

I just trammed it which was rather annoying. It took me 6 or 7 times loosening, tapping on the head, and then tightening the head again to get it within .0015” measuring about 16” apart with 1 point in the front of the table and the other on the back of the table using Blondihacks method. The one but being up in the hole on the bottom is a pain too.

Hopefully that’s close enough and I’m not missing a simpler method?

I did coat the bottom of the vise in way oil but I have many different kinds of grease I could use as well. It has to come off again once I get the correct bolts for the table so I’ll see what I have around. Thanks for the tip!

Way oil won't stop the galvanic corrosion even if you drown it in oil. I had drown mine in Vactra #2 way oil to no avail. It's anode/cathode electrical corrosion hence the Teflon to inhibit the transfer of electrons between the two metals. Teflon is an amazing electrical insulator. I had some trying to get going between an aluminum DRO scale and the back of the mill table. I found it when I removed the scale recently to transfer it to the front.

I use a Starrett spindle square for tramming, it's so much easier. There are cheaper China knock offs of the Starrett spindle square, I think Edge makes one.

 

[jlficken]

Way oil won't stop the galvanic corrosion even if you drown it in oil. I had drown mine in Vactra #2 way oil to no avail. It's anode/cathode electrical corrosion hence the Teflon to inhibit the transfer of electrons between the two metals. Teflon is an amazing electrical insulator. I had some trying to get going between an aluminum DRO scale and the back of the mill table. I found it when I removed the scale recently to transfer it to the front.

I use a Starrett spindle square for tramming, it's so much easier. There are cheaper China knock offs of the Starrett spindle square, I think Edge makes one.

I’ll add some grease to avoid that then as I definitely don’t want my shiny new mill to rust.

Am I thinking that with that device you set each indicator to 0 on the same spot on the bed and then adjust from there? I’ll Google it as I wonder if a printed one would work in that case.

 

[coolidge]

I’ll add some grease to avoid that then as I definitely don’t want my shiny new mill to rust.

Am I thinking that with that device you set each indicator to 0 on the same spot on the bed and then adjust from there? I’ll Google it as I wonder if a printed one would work in that case.

Yes you zero on a known flat surface, the mill table will likely suffice until you try tramming to within 10ths of a thousandth. Then chuck the spindle square into the mill spindle. Then you can easily check how far out you are left/right and front/back, and more importantly use the indicators as you adjust/tighten. With a single indicator ugh that's annoyingly slow. Perfectly trammed both indicators would read the same.

You can also check different areas of the table, left/right/center along X and Y so you know aprox how flat your table is across it's surface. Monitor the head nod forward/back and table left/right front/back as you tighten gib locks. Knowing how your machine changes when you snug up the gib locks at aprox what snug pressure is helpful.

For example when you snug up the Z column gib locks it's likely going to pull the head up/back towards the column a bit. Loose the head on my mill nods forward a bit, I use the gib locks to pull it back to .000 front to back.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I’ll add some grease to avoid that then as I definitely don’t want my shiny new mill to rust.

Am I thinking that with that device you set each indicator to 0 on the same spot on the bed and then adjust from there? I’ll Google it as I wonder if a printed one would work in that case.

Davidpbest (member here) has a really good video explaining how to tram a square column mill and he has some literature which is worth investing in full of useful information. To really get accuracy out of it you need to first check the column, then the head nod, then the head rotation. Like my 940, if your column and/or head nod aren't true you'll need shims while the rotation is adjustable. You will also find this to be very useful.

 

[jlficken]

Would anyone be interested in STL's for table covers for the PM-833T/V when I get them done?

They're not going to be fancy but I'm hoping they'll at least work.

I'm printing this one right now to test fit it.

 

[jlficken]

It's nothing fancy but this design seems to work.

It's 2 parts and they go out to the very edge of the coolant areas on the ends of the beds and are 10.75" long when placed together.

I'm not sure if I want them to hook together like the PM-728VT design I found so I didn't do that.

Fusion was being a huge pain while trying to do this for some reason.