Pouring concrete near my machines

Thank you, I didn't think it would be a big issue, but then I ran across a comment where it mentioned poorly cured concrete could be the source of rust issues drawing moisture into the shop.
For long term issues it does help somewhat to put a moisture barrier under the slab. Concrete is porous enough that some water will seep through if the ground underneath is damp, you may not get obvious water spots but you can still get some source of additional humidity.
 
To lift the existing walk and have it drain, contact a concrete lifter or “mud jacker” they can do wonders with existing slabs etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As Rabler said above, put down plastic before you pour. I have seen water come to the top of a slab without plastic underneath it after a heavy rain.
 
My shop was humid for only a week after my pour. Sounds like your machines are well-prepped to survive with the lanolin mix you've been using.

Base solutions, whether portland cement or lye, do not fume. (Not completely true, strong lye solutions >15M can fume when heated and concentrated like heavy syrup, but that's no concern here). Just clean off any slurry splashes on your iron.
 
If in the basement, I would spend the extra money to have it pumped with a line pump. I would do all the prep work by putting down stegowrap, rebar/wire and the support chairs. Then have a pro actually pour and finish, especially if you want a smooth trowel finish.
 
To lift the existing walk and have it drain, contact a concrete lifter or “mud jacker” they can do wonders with existing slabs etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did not know this was a thing. I could actually use that on the front walkway as there is a significant shifting between two of the blocks / panels / squares? A 2-3 inch difference where one has tipped up and is a real tripping hazard. I assumed I was going to have to tear it all out and have it redone (way beyond a job I want to do myself). Unfortunately don't think that will be an option in the back of the house. It was either poorly done (quite probable based on the existing slab in the basement) or the house has sunk (also possible as it was built 110 years ago)

If in the basement, I would spend the extra money to have it pumped with a line pump. I would do all the prep work by putting down stegowrap, rebar/wire and the support chairs. Then have a pro actually pour and finish, especially if you want a smooth trowel finish.

I'm sure a pump truck could do it, but it is a very awkward location to get heavy equipment into. I'll probably rent a small mixer as I'm calculating about 3/4 yard of concrete which is a lot to mix by hand, but a very small amount to try and get delivered. Any small construction jobs are practically impossible to get done these days. Most of the local contractors have more work than they can handle between, new construction, rebuilding from fires and a shortage of warm bodies.

I'm glad I'm fairly handy with small construction jobs because it is beyond saving money at this point, often it is the only way to get it done. I had people walking by on the street trying to hire me when I was building my fence.
 
For long term issues it does help somewhat to put a moisture barrier under the slab. Concrete is porous enough that some water will seep through if the ground underneath is damp, you may not get obvious water spots but you can still get some source of additional humidity.
I can't stress this enough. I'm the 3rd owner of my house that we bought 24 years ago. They didn't put a moisture barrier in the garage, I assume. Despite living in a dry climate, when I anything on the floor, and lift it a day or so later, the concrete and items are wet. Early on, I had a plumber out to check for a leak but found none. I played with drainage and landscaping to reduce water around the garage to no avail. Very frustrating, but not enough to break it out and re-pour it.
 
I can't stress this enough. I'm the 3rd owner of my house that we bought 24 years ago. They didn't put a moisture barrier in the garage, I assume. Despite living in a dry climate, when I anything on the floor, and lift it a day or so later, the concrete and items are wet. Early on, I had a plumber out to check for a leak but found none. I played with drainage and landscaping to reduce water around the garage to no avail. Very frustrating, but not enough to break it out and re-pour it.

Easy enough for me to put down some plastic, but the shop is surrounded on 3 sides by dirt separated only by a layer of plywood or sheet rock so if ground moisture was an issue here I think I would already have problems. I have rocky soil, terrible for digging fence posts but seems to offer good drainage. I'm not looking forward to digging out part of the crawl space next to the shop to store the holiday decorations that got evicted when I set up a shop.

The prior owners used the house as an office and stored paper documents in cardboard boxes in the basement, so moisture apparently has never been much of an issue. Mainly I'm just trying to make sure I don't create one.
 
Did not know this was a thing. I could actually use that on the front walkway as there is a significant shifting between two of the blocks / panels / squares? A 2-3 inch difference where one has tipped up and is a real tripping hazard. I assumed I was going to have to tear it all out and have it redone (way beyond a job I want to do myself). Unfortunately don't think that will be an option in the back of the house. It was either poorly done (quite probable based on the existing slab in the basement) or the house has sunk (also possible as it was built 110 years ago)
The people in my neck of the woods that jack concrete are called "slab savers". They use somewhat specialized porta-power attachments combined with the hand-eye magic of an auto body professional to do what they do. I'm surprised the method wasn't thought up sooner.
 
from experience i think the only problem you may have is when the guy holding the concrete pump hose drops it while he scratches his ass as the hose whips around and covers your road bike with fresh concrete
 
Back
Top