POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[mattthemuppet2]

Helped my eldest daughter make a double barrel composter. She did pretty much all of it other than some help with drilling holes. I also welded up the supports from some scrap

 

[GrifterGuru]

First of all, thanks for the tips @GrifterGuru


I have a lot of experience servicing bicycles, but polishing old stuff at this scale will be a first for me. I will have to check if PEEK and Silvo are available here and if they are, I will get those per your recommendation.


What I won’t be getting though is another grease, as I have a really nice selection of too many greases (Blue Lug, Lucas, Phil Wood, Velox etc.) on hand


The tires need to be replaced, the ones that came with the bike are no longer structurally intact. One thing I’ve learned during this project is that there is a very limited selection of 12” tires available. Vee Tire Co. has the Speedster, which is also available in 26”. This is nice, because it would allow me to have similar pattern on both of the tires!


The wheels are far from true, so I will probably rebuild the entire wheelset. I will polish the bits according to your instructions while they are apart.


I've been considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner for this purpose Maybe this project is finally a good enough reason to get one.

@Jussi H.

Even if the tyres are new, apply the boot/shoe polish. It not only makes them look smart, it keeps them supple as well as easier to clean and stops any dry rot by protecting the rubber from the environment enough to lengthen tyre life.

Re the grease for wheel bearings... Trust me, high mobility grease is the key. Normal weight grease is too "Sticky" and makes riding harder than it needs to be due to the inherent retardation it causes. High mobility lessens that so much that it makes riding so much easier it seems unbelievable. It is the difference between coasting 5 yards with normal grease and 25 yards with high-mobility grease.

I take you will be using the "put the wheel in the frame" method of truing them, or do you have a wheel building/truing stand?

Re the wheels, just remember, the smaller the wheel, the harder they are to re-lace! If the tyre is a 12"x2", then the rim is likely going to be 8" diameter. Tyres are sized for overall diameter and the height of the tyre wall. Most tyres for bicycles are sized only by diameter and tyre wall, though if you are "worth your salt" you can work out, if one is available to suit, what moped tyre could be fitted.

 

[ChazzC]

Thanks! Thinking about, this is a Winky-ish approach.

First of all, thanks for the tips @GrifterGuru


I have a lot of experience servicing bicycles, but polishing old stuff at this scale will be a first for me. I will have to check if PEEK and Silvo are available here and if they are, I will get those per your recommendation.

I can’t remember the name of the series from the UK (a couple of older gents buying almost junk and fixing it up in The Shed), but in one episode they used Aluminium foil and maybe some liquid to rub out a rusty/pock-marked chrome headlight from a motorcycle with incredible results,

 

[GrifterGuru]

Thanks! Thinking about, this is a Winky-ish approach.


I can’t remember the name of the series from the UK (a couple of older gents buying almost junk and fixing it up in The Shed), but in one episode they used Aluminium foil and maybe some liquid to rub out a rusty/pock-marked chrome headlight from a motorcycle with incredible results,

That is one way, but it actually does damage the chrome, even though it does "remove rust".

The trick you refer to is "coke and foil" as-in, coca-cola and aluminium foil. Citric acid is less harmful, less damaging and does not scratch the chrome you are trying to clean.

Also, I think the TV prog you are referring to may have been "Shed and buried".. Not certain though.

 

[Jussi H.]

Re the grease for wheel bearings... Trust me, high mobility grease is the key. Normal weight grease is too "Sticky" and makes riding harder than it needs to be due to the inherent retardation it causes. High mobility lessens that so much that it makes riding so much easier it seems unbelievable. It is the difference between coasting 5 yards with normal grease and 25 yards with high-mobility grease.

My biggest concern with loose ball bearings has been the grease spraying off. I tend to ride my bikes in the elements and that's why I prefer well adhering greases such as the Velox Graisse Rose (aka Spécial Roulements). Lucas Red "N" Tacky is even more resistant, but I use it really sparingly due to its limited availability here in Finland.

I take you will be using the "put the wheel in the frame" method of truing them, or do you have a wheel building/truing stand?

I will be doing the truing in a stand Truing the 12" wheel will be slow, because I will have to use a double ended spoke wrench.

 

[extropic]

I can’t remember the name of the series from the UK (a couple of older gents buying almost junk and fixing it up in The Shed), but in one episode they used Aluminium foil and maybe some liquid to rub out a rusty/pock-marked chrome headlight from a motorcycle with incredible results,

Yes, I don't know why it works, but I have used the technique and was well pleased with the improvement in the appearance of a chromed part.
IIRC, I did it under running water, to wash away any debris.

 

[GrifterGuru]

My biggest concern with loose ball bearings has been the grease spraying off. I tend to ride my bikes in the elements and that's why I prefer well adhering greases such as the Velox Graisse Rose (aka Spécial Roulements). Lucas Red "N" Tacky is even more resistant, but I use it really sparingly due to its limited availability here in Finland.


I will be doing the truing in a stand Truing the 12" wheel will be slow, because I will have to use a double ended spoke wrench.

Sounds like you need the "modified screwdriver" to help with running the nipples onto the spokes and getting base torque on them..

Simply take a suitable Standard (flat) screwdriver and either file a slot up the middle of the blade with a swiss needle file, making sure it is wide enough and to clear the top of a spoke.

Even better, do the same to a driver bit that you can use in a cordless drill. it makes wheel building/dismantling faster and saves your hands/wrists.


Re grease flinging... with the correct bearing covers in place as they come from the factory on the hub, the grease will stay where it is put. The act of the bearings rolling it around the race cup in the wheel hub ensures it stays in place. It only ever "slumps" after long periods of zero use. The clearence between cone and bearing cover is enough to keep everything where it should be, but if you wanted to, you could fit a rubber "boot" to be 100% sure. That should also stop ingres of debris/moisture.

 

[ChazzC]

That is one way, but it actually does damage the chrome, even though it does "remove rust".

The trick you refer to is "coke and foil" as-in, coca-cola and aluminium foil. Citric acid is less harmful, less damaging and does not scratch the chrome you are trying to clean.

Yes, I don't know why it works, but I have used the technique and was well pleased with the improvement in the appearance of a chromed part.
IIRC, I did it under running water, to wash away any debris.

It may have been dry, more buffing than rubbing; and there wasn't a lot of rust/pitting to start with, just looked narly