POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[tominboise]

interesting, for the lathe or mill? How do you prevent the collar and tool from pushing back, since it goes deeper and does not self lock? Or does the tool go to the back of the slot?

The tool bottoms on the slot.

 

[tominboise]

It's cheaper than buying and arbor press and Dumont broach set? I think that's the only reason. Well, that was my reason.

Yup. I have a press and I could buy a broach and bushing for $50. But what fun would that be. I could have just bought the pulley in the first place.

 

[rwm]

Do not use the tailstock. It will be way too many passes. Mount the tool in the tool holder and use the carriage. Increment the cross slide to advance the cutter into the work. Think .005-.010 passes

 

[Firstram]

Is this is where we remind everyone of the biggest idiot on the internet who broke the crap out of his mill doing an idiot thing because he was an idiot? Not exactly broaching, but the shoe fits:

That knucklehead did that for the views!

 

[tominboise]

Do not use the tailstock. It will be way too many passes. Mount the tool in the tool holder and use the carriage. Increment the cross slide to advance the cutter into the work. Think .005-.010 passes

Makes sense and I will do it this way.

 

[ivel03]

Do not use the tailstock. It will be way too many passes. Mount the tool in the tool holder and use the carriage. Increment the cross slide to advance the cutter into the work. Think .005-.010 passes

That's what i did to broach a key slot in an aluminum pulley. I ground up a piece of HSS and mounted in an AXA tool holder at a slight angle to allow for clearance.

 

[tominboise]

Do not use the tailstock. It will be way too many passes. Mount the tool in the tool holder and use the carriage. Increment the cross slide to advance the cutter into the work. Think .005-.010 passes

It's very slow and I have a lot of tool deflection. I am going to sharpen the bit and perhaps shorten it a bit so there is less stick out. I may also try roughing out the slot with an end mill first to clean out most of the material first.

 

[rwm]

You should not have to rough out the slot. Shorten it as you describe. I would check your rake angle. I would suggest trying to get about 5 deg of rake on the end. If you left a 90 deg corner there then you actually have a negative rake angle and will get deflection. What angle do you have?

Edit: I just checked my tool. I have about 5 deg or relief and a minimal positive rake angle, maybe 2 deg. Keep in mind that rake angle is with respect to the direction of motion, not the axis of the cutter which in your case is angled.

 

[Jussi H.]

First of all, thanks for the tips @GrifterGuru

For the chrome, dump it in a bath/vat/barrel of Citric acid. Once it has been 24 - 48 hours remove, clean off, then polish up using PEEK polish. Peek is ultra fine so it does not mark the chrome, unlike Solvol Autosol.

Re the paint.. A clean rag soaked with liquid silvo silver polish and spend time just polishing the muck out of the paint. you will be surprised at the results and just how much dirt there is in seemingly "clean" paint. It will also add a deep lustre to the finish.

I have a lot of experience servicing bicycles, but polishing old stuff at this scale will be a first for me. I will have to check if PEEK and Silvo are available here and if they are, I will get those per your recommendation.

For wheel bearings, use a high mbility grease such as Sturmey Archer HMA106. it is great for wheel bearings because it does not "impede" movement due to the lower viscosity in comparison to other, thicker, greases.

Headstock bearings will need standard brown lithium.

What I won’t be getting though is another grease, as I have a really nice selection of too many greases (Blue Lug, Lucas, Phil Wood, Velox etc.) on hand

For tyres, specifically all black tyres, give them a good coating of black boot/shoe polish (Kiwi/cherry blossom) sidewalls, tread, the lot. If you have trouble with the tyre slipping the rim (popping out of the bead), apply some PVA by brush and inflate to around 20 PSI. Leave overnight before inflating to full pressure (usually 35-40PSI, dependant on tyre/s).

The tires need to be replaced, the ones that came with the bike are no longer structurally intact. One thing I’ve learned during this project is that there is a very limited selection of 12” tires available. Vee Tire Co. has the Speedster, which is also available in 26”. This is nice, because it would allow me to have similar pattern on both of the tires!

Re wheels. Spokes can be cleaned with wire wool. They are, nominally, easy to to too. If you remove each one, one at a time, you can pop them in the chuck of a cordless drill to help speed iup the polishing process. For the nipples, find an old spoke and cut about three inches off the end that has the thread on it. Pop this in the drill chuck, spin the nipple on and polish away.

The wheels are far from true, so I will probably rebuild the entire wheelset. I will polish the bits according to your instructions while they are apart.

Re the hubs... Paraffin/kerosene is good for cleaning out old grease and oils from the hub, bearings and axles.

I've been considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner for this purpose Maybe this project is finally a good enough reason to get one.

 

[tominboise]

You should not have to rough out the slot. Shorten it as you describe. I would check your rake angle. I would suggest trying to get about 5 deg of rake on the end. If you left a 90 deg corner there then you actually have a negative rake angle and will get deflection. What angle do you have?

It has a 15 degree rake ground on the bit. I need to check what it actually is when mounted in the holder I made.