POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[mattthemuppet2]

My job today was picking up a non working generator from a friend, cleaning the carb and getting it running. Phones are charging, ice is making and freezers are cooling!

 

[RandallsRaceShop]

I was about to tap a couple of holes this evening & thought I would give my grandfathers’ old Rigid Supreme Push-Pull tapper a try (just because). Damn thing is pretty handy.
I didn’t have an R8 collet for it, so I just stuck it in the drill chuck & cranked the head up to the sky.

 

[extropic]

I was about to tap a couple of holes this evening & thought I would give my grandfathers’ old Rigid Supreme Push-Pull tapper a try (just because). Damn thing is pretty handy.
I didn’t have an R8 collet for it, so I just stuck it in the drill chuck & cranked the head up to the sky.

Yes, I like those also. But they are a young mans tool if you have to do 100 holes. It also makes short work of tapped holes in remote locations, driven by your hand held drill motor.

IIRC, quill down, grip the bottom housing to tap. Release the housing to stop tapping. Quill up, grip the upper housing to unscrew the tap (at higher than tapping RPM). Did I get that right?

I imagine it would drive left hand taps also, if you reverse the driving motor. McMaster used to sell them and replacement collets, certainly in the 90s. I don't see them at McMaster anymore. No left hand threads. The shank would unscrew.

PS: If you remove the three-flat-shank from the tool you will see a 3/8-24 tapped hole. Take a long, partially threaded socket head cap screw and install a nut jammed tight at the end of the thread. Shorten the protruding thread as required, cut the head off the screw and you have made yourself a 3/8" straight shank arbor of pretty good steel, easy and cheap. You do have a 3/8" collet, right?

 

[woodchucker]

I have one, but it was not that automatic, you had to pull the shaft out to reverse it. I modified it ... also mine did not have the ability to hold a tap.
But I made a holder.

Tapping Head

I saw a video , I think doubleboost, maybe someone else. They used a Speeder (English for reducer). The English ones are way nicer than the American units. But I'm too cheap to get one and ship it over. At the price I could buy a tapmatic. I bought this one on ebay for $6 a few months ago...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[RandallsRaceShop]

Yes, I like those also. But they are a young mans tool if you have to do 100 holes. It also makes short work of tapped holes in remote locations, driven by your hand held drill motor.

IIRC, quill down, grip the bottom housing to tap. Release the housing to stop tapping. Quill up, grip the upper housing to unscrew the tap (at higher than tapping RPM). Did I get that right?

I imagine it would drive left hand taps also, if you reverse the driving motor. McMaster used to sell them and replacement collets, certainly in the 90s. I don't see them at McMaster anymore.

Yep, you still got it down.
It’s actually in the original box, with a full set of collets and some loose taps in it.

You’re right about it being a young man’s tool. If you’ve got a lot of tapping to do, that is most definitely not the way to do it.
Your fingers & forearm would fall off!

Anyway, I do like it for sure. Little stuff I play around making, I’d like to use it some more. Just gave me an excuse to buy some more R8 collets.

 

[RandallsRaceShop]

Yes, I like those also. But they are a young mans tool if you have to do 100 holes. It also makes short work of tapped holes in remote locations, driven by your hand held drill motor.

IIRC, quill down, grip the bottom housing to tap. Release the housing to stop tapping. Quill up, grip the upper housing to unscrew the tap (at higher than tapping RPM). Did I get that right?

I imagine it would drive left hand taps also, if you reverse the driving motor. McMaster used to sell them and replacement collets, certainly in the 90s. I don't see them at McMaster anymore.

PS: If you remove the three-flat-shank from the tool you will see a 3/8-24 tapped hole. Take a long, partially threaded socket head cap screw and install a nut jammed tight at the end of the thread. Shorten the protruding thread as required, cut the head off the screw and you have made yourself a 3/8" straight shank arbor of pretty good steel, easy and cheap. You do have a 3/8" collet, right?

Ha! You’re right about that one for sure! I most definitely have a 3/8” R8 collet.
Thanks for the tip.

 

[extropic]

I have one, but it was not that automatic, you had to pull the shaft out to reverse it. I modified it ... also mine did not have the ability to hold a tap.
But I made a holder.

They also made a unit that, at a glance, looks the same, but it mounted "Yankee" type screwdriver bits (1/2 flatted diameter) and was a screwdriver.
Does that sound like what you have?
I can't imagine using it safely with slot type fasteners/driver. It's got to be a guaranteed way to damage the finish on the workpiece.
Phillips fasteners, probably OK. It would be easy to rig up 1/4" hex chuck for insert bits and drive any fastener style. Hmmmm?

 

[woodchucker]

They also made a unit that, at a glance, looks the same, but it mounted "Yankee" type screwdriver bits (1/2 flatted diameter) and was a screwdriver.
Does that sound like what you have?
I can't imagine using it safely with slot type fasteners/driver. It's got to be a guaranteed way to damage the finish on the workpiece.
Phillips fasteners, probably OK. It would be easy to rig up 1/4" hex chuck for insert bits and drive any fastener style. Hmmmm?

yep, got it off ebay, and turned it into a tapper. I didn't know they had a tapper. can someone post pics of how the shaft holds taps?
so I guess you didn't need to pull the shaft down to reverse?

 

[extropic]

yep, got it off ebay, and turned it into a tapper. I didn't know they had a tapper. can someone post pics of how the shaft holds taps?
so I guess you didn't need to pull the shaft down to reverse?

The tapper came with, IIRC, 6 different capacity collets to drive up to 5/16" taps. The 5/16" collet is very thin in important places and is commonly missing on the used market or broken. Again, IIRC, the tool has a pin across the bottom of the collet chuck and the collets have a slot in the bottom. The knurled nut has an internal taper to squeeze the collet and retain the tap. I'm sorry for continuing to use, IIRC, the chuck shaft on the screwdriver does pull out further than the tapper, but I'm really uncertain about that.

I've never used the screwdriver type tool, so I don't really know how it's supposed to operate. It doesn't make sense to me that the front shaft has to be pulled out to reverse rotation, because when driving a screw, you have to apply pressure whether driving it in or out.

Pulling out the shaft is what was meant when I wrote "quill up" regarding the tapper operation description in reply #7593.

I have more than one of each type tool but they are in WA, and I'm in CA right now, so no pictures from me today.

I think I bought the first screwdriver by mistake (thinking it was a tapper) and decided it would not be a great tapper for reasons that I can't precisely remember right now, except to say that there are more differences between the two tools than tap holder collet chuck vs screwdriver bit holder.

 

[finsruskw]

Turning 1-1/2" shaft for a grease relief that will ride inside a bushing.
Shaft gets drilled, tapped and threaded for a fitting in each end with a through hole where the relief groove is.

Question: How deep should I make this grove and what is the proper term for such a feature around a shaft??

And another, would I be better served replacing the "fingers" on the SR with ones equipped with rollers?
What would you guys do?