POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Winegrower]

I just played with three little projects that had been bugging me for awhile.

1) I found a very solid stand that was for a drum set, I believe, but it was missing a knob on one of the leg adjustments. It was 20 tpi, but but a custom diameter for some reason, so I threaded and knurled a replacement. I have a cheap knurling tool, but I don’t care.
2) I saw a very simple drill sharpening fixture on this site and made one out of Delrin, with a step to fit my grinder tool rest. Now this really works, no need for a drill doctor, etc. It’s pretty simple to use, and does a nice job.
3) I needed a cable clamp, nothing on hand, lazy, made a die and pressed out a clamp. So now I have free 1/2” clamps for life. This equipment is paying for itself every day.

 

[woodchucker]

I just played with three little projects that had been bugging me for awhile.

1) I found a very solid stand that was for a drum set, I believe, but it was missing a knob on one of the leg adjustments. It was 20 tpi, but but a custom diameter for some reason, so I threaded and knurled a replacement. I have a cheap knurling tool, but I don’t care.
2) I saw a very simple drill sharpening fixture on this site and made one out of Delrin, with a step to fit my grinder tool rest. Now this really works, no need for a drill doctor, etc. It’s pretty simple to use, and does a nice job.
3) I needed a cable clamp, nothing on hand, lazy, made a die and pressed out a clamp. So now I have free 1/2” clamps for life. This equipment is paying for itself every day.

View attachment 405091View attachment 405092View attachment 405093

funny, my rikon 8" grinder came with a tool rest that had that 59 degree v, I didn't like it, I use jb weld and a piece of aluminum over that rest.
I just could not get a good grind w/out lifting the bit and putting the relief on the back. I'm curious if you will like it.

 

[Winegrower]

I just could not get a good grind w/out lifting the bit and putting the relief on the back. I'm curious if you will like it.

So far, so good. There was a video showing how without lifting, to rotate the drill CW, run it into the relief area then rotate CCW back to the cutting edge. That really works. I took a couple completely snapped off bits (not me, I made the classic mistake of loaning them) and in about 30 seconds had a good looking grind. Then, I punched a hole in mild steel, no fluid, no spotting, just like the guy did in the video.

 

[woodchucker]

So far, so good. There was a video showing how without lifting, to rotate the drill CW, run it into the relief area then rotate CCW back to the cutting edge. That really works. I took a couple completely snapped off bits (not me, I made the classic mistake of loaning them) and in about 30 seconds had a good looking grind. Then, I punched a hole in mild steel, no fluid, no spotting, just like the guy did in the video.

Link to the video.
I'm interested in seeing what he did. Not going to reverse what I did, but maybe do something like you did if I think it's better than what I do.

 

[Winegrower]

Link to the video

If anyone is considering drill sharpening fixture, I highly recommend watching the video first. If you don't use the jig, opting for something metal, it will still pay off just to see the finer points of what he is covering.


There are two parts, both should be watched. The first is sharpening the drill, the second is building the jig. I cannot give a suitable complement, I just think this guy really has his stuff together. Watch them... ...

Sorry, I am on an iPad, never have figured out how to copy links To threads or videos. It’s a Bill Hudson post that includes this video.
You’re much smarter than me, so you should be able to search for this. It was a week or so ago. Your thoughts would be interesting after you watch it.

 

[woodchucker]

Sorry, I am on an iPad, never have figured out how to copy links To threads or videos. It’s a Bill Hudson post that includes this video.
You’re much smarter than me, so you should be able to search for this. It was a week or so ago. Your thoughts would be interesting after you watch it.

Oh yea, I remember watching it. given who it is nah. I used to watch him. I'm not going to go into it. All I can say is he screwed over some friends. So I stopped watching him.

 

[Winegrower]

But for the record, this guys method allows drill grinding in a simple jig with no freehanding. The morality of it aside, it's a good method.

 

[BGHansen]

Quick POTD so I could get on with the winter/spring POTD. . . I cut around 8 full cords of firewood a year to supplement our propane and geothermal furnaces. Was cutting some deadfall and my Stihl Farm Boss saw froze up. The engine ran but the chain was frozen. Pulled the bar/chain and the drive sprocket wouldn’t turn.

Turned out the blade chain brake was stuck on. The saw has a band clamp/brake that runs around the drive sprocket cup. The safety handle up top flips a trigger (over-center linkage) when pulled back. Bump it forward and the brake band is pulled tightly around the sprocket cup stopping the chain.

Pulled the trigger tensioning spring and discovered the safety handle had worn significantly where it bears against the triggering link. It was worn enough that it couldn’t push the trigger back over-center and disengage the brake.


Chain brake in the engaged position. Cryptic description, but the steel link coming out of the black handle swings down when engaged which allows the pivoting linkage (one with the "C" at the top - extension spring removed for ease of cycling the mechanism). The spring pulling to the left at the top pivots the bottom end to the right which pulls the brake band tight around the sprocket cup


Brake in the non-engaged position. Pulling the safety handle back pushes up on the link taking it over-center from a pivot locking it in place.


Brake in the non-engaged position. The bottom of the slot in the black safety handle (green arrow) should push the linkage up (2nd green arrow) to set the brake trigger. Problem was the handle had worn over the last 30 years so it would no longer push the link to the non-engaged position.



Fix was to drill an 1/8” hole and stick a dowel pin in the handle. Back to cutting wood. . . And "yes", I have thought about the reverse failure mode. What happens if the top side of the slot in the safety handle wears to the point it doesn't engage the brake? That might be a place for a 2nd dowel pin, but for now I ALWAYS verify the chain brake works after starting the saw.


Painted the handle with yellow paint and marked the position of the trigger in the engaged and non-engaged positions


Drilled an 1/8" hole through the handle and pressed in a dowel pin.


The dowel pin ate up the gap/wear in the handle. Now the trigger is steel on steel; should work forever as the plastic on steel (Stihl ?!?) worked fine for 30 years.



As an aside, there are mixed feeling about Amazon but I’m a fan. Went on line Saturday and ordered a new safety handle (off-brand) at about 5:00 PM for a whopping $12 (Stihl NOS is $50). It was delivered Sunday before 6:00 PM. I’m leaving my fixed safety handle in place, now I have a spare. And “yes”, the slot in the new part is significantly smaller than my worn one. I’ve had the saw for around 30 years, my pin fix will likely outlive me.


Worn safety handle opening was roughly 0.55", new part is 0.46"



Thanks for looking,

Bruce

 

[Larry42]

handle had worn over the last 30 years

Some things just don't last these days. When I was heating on wood, a long time ago, I had a Stihl 045. Great saw but the locked door on my garage was crowbarred open and it disappeared.

 

[woodchucker]

Quick POTD so I could get on with the winter/spring POTD. . . I cut around 8 full cords of firewood a year to supplement our propane and geothermal furnaces. Was cutting some deadfall and my Stihl Farm Boss saw froze up. The engine ran but the chain was frozen. Pulled the bar/chain and the drive sprocket wouldn’t turn.

Turned out the blade chain brake was stuck on. The saw has a band clamp/brake that runs around the drive sprocket cup. The safety handle up top flips a trigger (over-center linkage) when pulled back. Bump it forward and the brake band is pulled tightly around the sprocket cup stopping the chain.

Pulled the trigger tensioning spring and discovered the safety handle had worn significantly where it bears against the triggering link. It was worn enough that it couldn’t push the trigger back over-center and disengage the brake.


Chain brake in the engaged position. Cryptic description, but the steel link coming out of the black handle swings down when engaged which allows the pivoting linkage (one with the "C" at the top - extension spring removed for ease of cycling the mechanism). The spring pulling to the left at the top pivots the bottom end to the right which pulls the brake band tight around the sprocket cup
View attachment 405226

Brake in the non-engaged position. Pulling the safety handle back pushes up on the link taking it over-center from a pivot locking it in place.
View attachment 405228

Brake in the non-engaged position. The bottom of the slot in the black safety handle (green arrow) should push the linkage up (2nd green arrow) to set the brake trigger. Problem was the handle had worn over the last 30 years so it would no longer push the link to the non-engaged position.
View attachment 405231


Fix was to drill an 1/8” hole and stick a dowel pin in the handle. Back to cutting wood. . . And "yes", I have thought about the reverse failure mode. What happens if the top side of the slot in the safety handle wears to the point it doesn't engage the brake? That might be a place for a 2nd dowel pin, but for now I ALWAYS verify the chain brake works after starting the saw.


Painted the handle with yellow paint and marked the position of the trigger in the engaged and non-engaged positions
View attachment 405232

Drilled an 1/8" hole through the handle and pressed in a dowel pin.
View attachment 405233

The dowel pin ate up the gap/wear in the handle. Now the trigger is steel on steel; should work forever as the plastic on steel (Stihl ?!?) worked fine for 30 years.
View attachment 405234


As an aside, there are mixed feeling about Amazon but I’m a fan. Went on line Saturday and ordered a new safety handle (off-brand) at about 5:00 PM for a whopping $12 (Stihl NOS is $50). It was delivered Sunday before 6:00 PM. I’m leaving my fixed safety handle in place, now I have a spare. And “yes”, the slot in the new part is significantly smaller than my worn one. I’ve had the saw for around 30 years, my pin fix will likely outlive me.


Worn safety handle opening was roughly 0.55", new part is 0.46"
View attachment 405235View attachment 405236


Thanks for looking,

Bruce

nice fix Bruce... the geothermal furnace, is that your own design?
Does it work well?