POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[woodchucker]

Had to make a wasp and critter protection for my new HVAC concentrator. Went from oil (chimney) to pvc in wall.
They offer no way to keep the yellow jackets and wasps out, or other critters.
The screen will come off in November, the white pvc will remain all the time. I don't think it will cause too much back pressure.
If it does, I'll make a new one with wider slots.

 

[Weldingrod1]

Test fit for my FIRST Robotics pit frame; this is intended to hold up banners and led lights over the pit area. There's 5' vertical extensions that aren't on there yet.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

 

[IHinIN]

Made a new set of 4140 PH jaws for the Kurt vise I bought Friday. Going to grind them tomorrow at work. One of the jaws was wider and shorter height than the other and it had been milled into. It also had been ground down on the thickness and the screw heads stick up above the counterbores.





Turned down the M2 taper arbor on my No3 Jacobs chuck to 9/16” to use it on my mill. The arbor had a twisted tang so it was scrap anyway.

 

[ChazzC]

Made a new set of 4140 PH jaws for the Kurt vise I bought Friday. Going to grind them tomorrow at work. One of the jaws was wider and shorter height than the other and it had been milled into. It also had been ground down on the thickness and the screw heads stick up above the counterbores.

View attachment 500996

But you no longer have the customized jaw plate!

View attachment 500995

Turned down the M2 taper arbor on my No3 Jacobs chuck to 9/16” to use it on my mill. The arbor had a twisted tang so it was scrap anyway.

View attachment 500997

Better than what I was going to suggest: cut off the buggered end and either use it in a tail stock or drill & tap for a drawbar.

 

[WobblyHand]

Finished up a sensitive drill set up for my lathe. It actually took two days, but, hey, I'm slow. Bought an Albrecht 0-3mm key less chuck and a Jacobs JT0 to 1/2" arbor. Then made a sleeve out of 7/8" 1144 that the arbor sits in. The arbor mics at 0.4995", the hole in the sleeve was reamed to 0.5000". Nice slip fit. Added a weep hole to let out the trapped air. The sleeve has a tail on it which can be grabbed in my tail stock chuck. Added a knurled ring to the sleeve which ended up being a press fit to it. A drop of light machine oil was added to lube the arbor in the sleeve. Came out better than I had hoped. Better yet, it even works, despite looking like a Rube Goldberg invention!

Originally I designed with with a Morse Taper, but I took it out of my design, as I haven't done a taper before. Took the safer route this time. Besides, the MT3 taper would have required a thicker piece of stock, which I didn't have. Maybe I will make a version II, but this one works well enough for my needs. I drilled a 1.5mm diameter 12mm deep hole with it today.

 

[GrifterGuru]

Made a start on a full set of these, of which I made an initial pair with a 5.5mm bore (see post #7,103) back on 5th August, now I am going through and making the full set with bores in 0.5mm steps. Full set is fourteen pairs and I have six pairs done as of this morning.

Then there are the other two sets... One set with a full conical taper bore, one set with a half conical taper bore... Should be fun!

Will get the rest done as time permits. There is no hurry for these and I am enjoying the challenge of the accuracy requirements.

Diameter and bores are done for the pairs in the photo, just need to skim the cut-off faces to bring them to final width. Going to get the whole set done before I face to width as it is easier to do the diameter and the bore in the first operation, then the width as a second operation. One bore size becomes the lead for the next bore size, so that simplifies things a little as regards centering each bore.

I am thinking of sourcing an MT3 ER32 collet holder. Should make it simple enough to machine a bar to the face of the collet, then remove a specific amount for constant seating depth of the parts.

These are sat in my "Insert Tooling / Carbide Inserts" drawer for now.

These are the smaller diameter bore pairs, starting at 3mm and going to 5.5mm bore. Going to start on the 6mm to 9mm bore pairs later, possibly adding 2mm and 2.5mm bore pairs to the list, if I can "face" the thought of making them.

 

[ChazzC]

Not overly worried about turning so much off, not like I was using the off-cut for much else. Just the mess that bugs me. The pleasant black-cherry fragrance is just a pleasant after aroma.

Would have made them from stainless, but "aluminium" was requested, so that is what my friend got. Needed the parts for something to do with a particular job where he currently works. Interesting work too, not that I can discuss unfortunately.

Could have done with a reamer too, but they are still "on the shopping list"..... Gues I better get some bought as I have an idea I may be making more of these parts in the future to a slightly different design..

Now, where did I put that 4mm boring bar?

Further to this, see post 7,346 (<<< LINK) where I have made a start on a full set).

Since you're making for your friend, why not have him source 3/4" / 20mm stock and a set of reamers to "pay" for your time?

 

[GrifterGuru]

Since you're making for your friend, why not have him source 3/4" / 20mm stock and a set of reamers to "pay" for your time?

Already have the 20mm stock and reamers

 

[WobblyHand]

To get rid of those "parting collars" grind the parting tool to have a tiny bias towards the tail stock. Instead of grinding square, tilt the tool a tiny amount so the tip is a minuscule bit longer on the tail stock side. It doesn't take much. Then when you part, the parted piece will break off with no collar. At least that works for me. I just learned this recently, picked it up from a Joe Pie video on making washers. Also indicating your parting blade to be perpendicular to the spindle (under 0.001" for full cutting travel) will generate much smoother and beautiful cuts. No defects on the parted cut.

 

[GrifterGuru]

To get rid of those "parting collars" grind the parting tool to have a tiny bias towards the tail stock. Instead of grinding square, tilt the tool a tiny amount so the tip is a minuscule bit longer on the tail stock side. It doesn't take much. Then when you part, the parted piece will break off with no collar. At least that works for me. I just learned this recently, picked it up from a Joe Pie video on making washers. Also indicating your parting blade to be perpendicular to the spindle (under 0.001" for full cutting travel) will generate much smoother and beautiful cuts. No defects on the parted cut.

Not worried about the finish on the parted side as that is going to be turned down. as for the stand off area, that is due to getting to near bore size, then breaking them away.

Aware of the grind angle on a parting tool, but the part-off tool I am using is an insert type with a "straight" face edge.