POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Larry$ said:
I put 2 coats of a tan tint epoxy on a shop floor 30+ years ago. It held up really well. The secret is in the surface prep. Follow the mfg. directions. In addition to scrubbing with trisodium phosphate I did an acid etch. Then rinse twice and vacuum dry. The result of using a light color is better lighting (reflects & scatters light) Makes a smoother easier to clean surface & stops most stains. Its not cheap! Disadvantage is it is still concrete and a blob of molten metal falling on it will, likely, cause a blowout of the surface.
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That is my concern with epoxy… I know that I will mess it up with any welding… That and the cost. Pretty sure I will end up with the tiles.

Last night I installed a row of three 8’ long LED lights. Used an extension cord to the house to test. This is just one row. I will be installing two more rows today, when the rest of the lights arrive. Easy to remove when I am ready to install ceiling panels and they are bright! I did the same in the garage a few months back.

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Larry$ said:
Don't know if applies in the sunny south BUT here (Nebraska) you always need to use a vapor barrier between the inside finish and the insulation.
Loose fill insulations tend to settle with time so you will end up with an uninsulated space at the top of each cavity. Fill any gaps between door & window frames.
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This cellulose is sprayed wet, with an adhesive. Similar process to the spray foam, but no expansion. The installers scrape the excess off, flat to the studs. It's 100% fill when done.

After installation, You leave the drywall off for a little while to allow it to dry. This stuff will NOT settle over time. It's surprisingly Ridgid. In a few days it's quite dry.

I believe the specs are R3.9 per inch.

We're northern climate too, so vapor barrier inside is needed. With house wrap that breathes walls allow moisture to exit the walls outside.

Fl is probably the opposite. More moisture outside than in with AC. Not sure if a vapor barrier is needed at all, or what the standard is.
 
rabler said:
with equipment it is suddenly barely adequate lighting.
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The important thing is to prevent shadows. His strip system is pretty good for that. Consideration should be given the effect of light absorption/reflection from the walls. Last row should be fairly close to walls to prevent shadows over likely benches & tools there. The end wall also needs a crosswise light for the same reason. White color will reflect the most light & glossy surfaces the best texture for lighting. Floors contribute to evening out lighting also. I experimented with color temperature of the lighting in my production shop. Ended up using 6000 Kelvin. In the 16,000 sq ft. of work area, there were 640, 4' lamps, with open reflectors @ 16' above the floor. 25 sq. ft./ lamp. White walls. Good lighting.
 
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