POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[rabler]

I needed a 3" round chunk of rubber stall mat to give a flange coupling just a bit of flex for the crane driveshaft. Like most projects, I first needed to turn the little aluminum puck to replace the missing piece in the bandsaw. The factory original plastic one, and the spare that came with the saw, have both long since disintegrated.

The rubber cut much easier than I expected, I was worried about it grabbing but no problem at metal cutting blade speeds.
Next I need to poke 3 bolt holes through this.

 

[rabler]

For insulation I was going to get a quote on spray foam insulation... thinking that once the electrical is done and I close the rest of the wall, they can pour the foam from the top. But I have not call them to check pricing... I need to call to see what is more cost effective... spray foam or regular insulation rolls (batt).

I rented a blower from the box store and used blown fiberglass, DIY, with my wife feeding the blower while I dealt with the hose end. Definitely a 2 person project. Walls and ceiling. Same equipment and similar cost to do blown in cellulose. Blower was heavy, (150 lbs?), so we just left it in the back of the pickup and parked it in the shop. A lot less work than stapling in batts. One rental, about 5-6 hours, to do the ceiling (2200 sq ft), and another about the same amount of time to do the walls (about the same sq ft) after pre-drilling 3" holes in the drywall, and patching those the next day.

 

[woodchucker]

I rented a blower from the box store and used blown fiberglass, DIY, with my wife feeding the blower while I dealt with the hose end. Definitely a 2 person project. Walls and ceiling. Same equipment and similar cost to do blown in cellulose. Blower was heavy, (150 lbs?), so we just left it in the back of the pickup and parked it in the shop. A lot less work than stapling in batts. One rental, about 5-6 hours, to do the ceiling (2200 sq ft), and another about the same amount of time to do the walls (about the same sq ft) after pre-drilling 3" holes in the drywall, and patching those the next day.

my son is thinking of doing that, he told me if he buys the material from HD , they rent the machine for free.

 

[woodchucker]

I drilled 3 sets of dowel centers. I had to make a split collar for each size. The 1/2" was already drilled by the manufacturer.
These are old sets and only 1 of my sets had the back drilled. I recently gave a set to my son and he asked why they weren't drilled after telling him that I had drilled centers. He had ordered crap from Amazon or Taylor tools, and they were crap. So I told him I would give him a better set.
So now I'll switch out the set I gave him, and give him one of these cards.

I recently started using dowels again, and he has just discovered the advantage as well. Having the hole in the back expands it's capabilities, just like a transfer punch, or heimann transfer screws

 

[Larry$]

We did spray in cellulose.

Don't know if applies in the sunny south BUT here (Nebraska) you always need to use a vapor barrier between the inside finish and the insulation.
Loose fill insulations tend to settle with time so you will end up with an uninsulated space at the top of each cavity. Fill any gaps between door & window frames.

 

[matthewsx]

I want to run the electrical inside the shop... I just need the electrician to bring 200 amp to the building and end on a breaker panel. From there I can take over...

For insulation I was going to get a quote on spray foam insulation... thinking that once the electrical is done and I close the rest of the wall, they can pour the foam from the top. But I have not call them to check pricing... I need to call to see what is more cost effective... spray foam or regular insulation rolls (batt).

Good point on the grinding and welding areas... I was planning on using some diamond-pattern aluminum sheets... but not sure yet.

Floor, it was around 4,500 for epoxy... I don't think so. For 2,000, the floor will be tiled (doing the work myself) with these:

View attachment 479844

Or I could just leave it as is and only seal it... save the 2,000.00 in tiles and my labor. I only got two boxes so far that I was planning on installing in a corner to run some tests on them...

Just put some sealer on the concrete, it's a shop floor after all. It goes on easy and can be renewed quickly.

John

 

[woodchucker]

For insulation I was going to get a quote on spray foam insulation... thinking that once the electrical is done and I close the rest of the wall, they can pour the foam from the top. But I have not call them to check pricing... I need to call to see what is more cost effective... spray foam or regular insulation rolls (batt).

I have never heard of spray foam that can be poured from the top.
Spray foam is sprayed from a gun on open walls, or on top of ceilings.
Spray foam can be great, but it can also be a disaster if done wrong.

I'm a rockwool fanatic.

 

[Alcap]

I only have a 4way tool post on my Clausing 5914 , I have a nice assortment of shims but still time consuming. I thought if I could make a set of taper wedges/ shims it might be easier . Used some 1/8” x2” flat stock . Clamped the ends down to an adjustable angle plate set to cut .100 across the width and the other end just cleaned up the it tapered to approximately.025 . I had to clamped at the thin end down once I got it close to finish size . Cut into strips , matched the milled faces then machined them to give handles to make adjustments easier . It gives about .040 of adjustments so most of the time it will still need a flat shim to get it close

 

[ltlvt]

I like this idea. I'm always looking for good creative ideas. I have the Bostar Wedge type QCTP, and I consider it marginal as far as being Rigid. As with anything there is always tradeoffs. Thanks for posting this.

 

[Larry$]

Or I could just leave it as is and only seal it...

I put 2 coats of a tan tint epoxy on a shop floor 30+ years ago. It held up really well. The secret is in the surface prep. Follow the mfg. directions. In addition to scrubbing with trisodium phosphate I did an acid etch. Then rinse twice and vacuum dry. The result of using a light color is better lighting (reflects & scatters light) Makes a smoother easier to clean surface & stops most stains. Its not cheap! Disadvantage is it is still concrete and a blob of molten metal falling on it will, likely, cause a blowout of the surface.