POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[woodchucker]

I made my original gasket out of cork, but it kept expanding and shrinking depending on use and would fall out.
I settled on some heavy fellpro gasket sheeting that I cut up. I cut it slightly oversize so that the rounded over edge would keep it in.
It has worked well. Of course you have a dedicated spout.. so you can cut to exact size if it suits you.

 

[rabler]

The first project with any new welder is to weld up it’s cart. This was a test fit before painting.


Need to cap the two rear upright posts where the gas cylinder will sit, then paint, but building the cart is basically done and I’m happy with how it worked out. Just enough clearance for the side door to open for putting in a new wire spool. Took a while to get this done. On top of keeping busy while the wife is out on the injured list, I ran out of .035 wire, and my initial replacement order never got delivered due to damage in shipping. Good new for this afternoon for the wife, she’s now allowed to walk around the house without her leg in a brace

This is 1.5“ x .120 sq tube. Overkill but I had extra on hand.

Pretty happy with the new welder, as an upgrade from an old Craftsman transformer based MIG welder. The finer control on voltage with an inverter unit definitely makes it easier to get a good bead. And while ramp up and down are familiar features for TIG welding, they are surprisingly (to me anyway) useful with MIG too.

 

[Gnpenning]

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[Just for fun]

I think a garden hose is also 7.

Garden hose is 11.5 tpi. I made this little thing to hook a garden hose up to a water meter connector.

 

[dkemppai]

Also, the thread form most likely wouldn’t work: threads on the can/cap are rolled with a round profile - could grind a tool to replicate the profile for single-pointing.

Thread milling in a CNC mill?

 

[wachuko]

Thread milling in a CNC mill?

Pretty cool stuff...

 

[dkemppai]

Pretty cool stuff...

I don't use it all that often, but when I need something odd it works well. One nice thing is if you use a collet block, you can pull the block out, check the thread on something and return it to the mill to mill again.

Needed an odd metric LH nut a while back for the surface grinder. Thread milling in a collet block allowed pulling the part to check it on the surface grinder, return the block to the mill, and and mill a few more thou. Repeat until it fit nice.

 

[Boswell]

Negative

oh well. Once I needed to make a 11.5 TPI thread but my lathe only had gears for 11 or 12 tpi. I made it 11 tpi and was able to use it. Good luck with your quest.

 

[woodchucker]

I don't use it all that often, but when I need something odd it works well. One nice thing is if you use a collet block, you can pull the block out, check the thread on something and return it to the mill to mill again.

Needed an odd metric LH nut a while back for the surface grinder. Thread milling in a collet block allowed pulling the part to check it on the surface grinder, return the block to the mill, and and mill a few more thou. Repeat until it fit nice.

exactly how does that work? Is the whole block held in something other than a vise, something to index the block and insure that it is perpendicular to the plate and in the same spot?

 

[dkemppai]

exactly how does that work? Is the whole block held in something other than a vise, something to index the block and insure that it is perpendicular to the plate and in the same spot?

In this case the part (a nut) was in a collet, in a square collet block. Used a stop on the vise jaw so that the collet block would repeat when the block was pulled and replaced. Sorry, this might be the only picture I have in the setup which doesn't show the vice or stop.
Just marked the corner of the collet block that went against the vise stop so I didn't accidentally rotate it 90 degrees!




With thread milling, if you change the diameter of the helix, you can leave the start point in basically the same place (well, except for the radius, which grows from the center of the helix). In these cases I always start just a bit undersize, then tweak the radius until the thread is to size.

It is really nice if you need to thread to the bottom of a blind hole. You can pretty much end up with full thread to about 1/2 of the pitch away from the bottom. (In the attached picture, I left a little unthreaded, as it wasn't needed.)