POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Just for fun]

It'll work for holding letters, but that's a special exception to the secret rules of welding, which says you can't make nuthin' stick by welding it to a heat resistant chunk of cast iron. But tack welds will hold for a while... probably.

Maybe some sort of epoxy world be better.

-Edit- I replied before I read the post about you using JB-Weld. That seems like that will work great!

Cool, addition by the way!

 

[AGCB97]

Preheat in the oven, and silver solder maybe, or epoxy might be worth a shot. Looks great, gotta love the road runner. Mike

I'd use ShoeGoo
Aaron

 

[tq60]

Touch it with a sanding disk to get something for the epoxy to hold, lay it o its side and epoxy will be great.

Use enough to get some bleed out that you can use to fill the mating area so it will appear as cast in letters.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[GoceKU]

Today i managed to find some time so i can work on the wheel spacers for my latest project car. In short i bought OEM wheels for a newer model but they are different offset. To get the perfect fit i need two different sizes, in the rear it needs 25mm but i have 23mm old non hub centric spacers that i decade to modify, for the front i need 18 mm for which i found a solid piece that i'll machine later but now i want to fix the one for the rear, i found a steel piece that will work, but i had to face it on the out side and open the hole in the space, then i press it in on my press i had about 0,35 interference fit which is a lot so i heat up the aluminium spacer and frized the steel with a co2 bottle and use loctite. Then i used an angle grinder to cut the excess steel. Chuck them one by one in my lathe finish the front to size, finish the back to size and got them ready to be used one again, i'm debating should i reuse the home made bolts or make new, unfortunately peugeot uses 28mm shoulder bolts instead of taperbolts like everyone else but i also found a good size tape in the wheel, someone before me has used taper bolts or have had tapers machined.

 

[dkemppai]

Edit: Hmm, that’s assuming it would drill nicely which I don’t know for sure…

Not sure if this is fully cast steel, or cast iron with a steel face. If iron it'll drill like butter. If steel it probably isn't super hard, it is meant for pounding on so glass hard would be bad.

Good quality fresh drill bits, it'll probably drill just fine. Maybe cobalt bits.

Drill and screw AND jb weld would probably do the trick. JB is pretty tough, until it gets super hot, which is not likely on the anvil down there!

 

[Eyerelief]

Spent yesterday fussing around with the grinder trying to hunt down the .0006 error. The additional plate that the previous owner put between the chuck and table was accurate so it wasn’t the problem.
I was able to shim under the rear of the chuck which brought me down to .0003. Thinking that was a band aid approach I finally broke down and ground the bottom of the chuck. I really didn’t want to do it fearing that it wouldn’t be the problem and that I was going to create the biggest leaky bag of flaming excrement I could imagine.
But what the heck, if you can’t start grinding on a hi dollar chuck, you might as well stay on the porch.
After removing a couple tenths, the wheel was cutting edge to edge. Reinstalled, I was surprised to see that I was still out .0003 front to back but now the high spot was reversed and there was no shim. I knew better than trying to grind the top because 1) who am I to think I can pull that off and 2) even if I was all that and a bag of chips, how do you grind brass?
Shop dog made an emergency egress with his ball when I asked him to hold my beer I want to try sumpthin. He wasn’t feeling it.

The chuck ground just fine in the center where the magnets are. But the solid brass perimeter was about a tenth proud. Previous owner had put a few significant scratches in the brass so I used those as “gauges” while rubbing some 1k grit diamond compound into the brass with medium steel wool. Worked like a champ, quickly peeling down the brass.

When I was done I ground my test piece again. Using a digital mitutoyo mic, I can’t discern any height difference’s at the corners and the finish seems to be OK.

 

[wachuko]

Not sure if this is fully cast steel, or cast iron with a steel face. If iron it'll drill like butter. If steel it probably isn't super hard, it is meant for pounding on so glass hard would be bad.

Good quality fresh drill bits, it'll probably drill just fine. Maybe cobalt bits.

Drill and screw AND jb weld would probably do the trick. JB is pretty tough, until it gets super hot, which is not likely on the anvil down there!

Supposed to be full cast steel... and I saw a guy on youtube welding over the pritchel hole to raise it to the level of the rest of the top... that is why I thought I could weld the letters on the side...

Found the video again... Here you go...

 

[Firstram]

What a hack welder, I love the glowing red ground @ 0:36.

 

[pontiac428]

Supposed to be full cast steel... and I saw a guy on youtube welding over the pritchel hole to raise it to the level of the rest of the top... that is why I thought I could weld the letters on the side...

Found the video again... Here you go...

Is the anvil steel on top, or is it semi-steel, or just iron? That all makes a difference. Also the fact your project is decorative and not structural makes a tiny difference, too.

Truthfully, anything can be welded given the right process. The best way to weld cast iron is with nickel, it mixes beyond the weld into the base by cladding and diffusion making a weld that isn't brittle. It's also possible to flame weld it with cast iron rod, it's artisanal and it works, I have some of that material stashed to pull a hat trick for an antique repair. Or you can just MIG it, the weld will flow just fine, it just won't be strong in cast iron. All of these options involve heating the base metal in a preheat oven slowly, then cooling slowly, over 24 hours if possible. That's if it were a break, crack, or repair.

You really aren't going to hurt anything by zapping a few tacks on there. If it doesn't work, they'll probably just plunk off with a hammer and you can try JB glue instead. Or Permatex Emblem Adhesive, that stuff's sick. Shoe Goo had many successful dives to the Titanic, so that should be good too.

 

[wachuko]

Is the anvil steel on top, or is it semi-steel, or just iron? That all makes a difference. Also the fact your project is decorative and not structural makes a tiny difference, too.

Truthfully, anything can be welded given the right process. The best way to weld cast iron is with nickel, it mixes beyond the weld into the base by cladding and diffusion making a weld that isn't brittle. It's also possible to flame weld it with cast iron rod, it's artisanal and it works, I have some of that material stashed to pull a hat trick for an antique repair. Or you can just MIG it, the weld will flow just fine, it just won't be strong in cast iron. All of these options involve heating the base metal in a preheat oven slowly, then cooling slowly, over 24 hours if possible. That's if it were a break, crack, or repair.

You really aren't going to hurt anything by zapping a few tacks on there. If it doesn't work, they'll probably just plunk off with a hammer and you can try JB glue instead. Or Permatex Emblem Adhesive, that stuff's sick. Shoe Goo had many successful dives to the Titanic, so that should be good too.

Sorry, I was not clear… I am just going to use JB-Weld… I just wanted to share why I thought I could just tack weld them in place…

It is all cast steel, with the top of the anvil heat treated… only the flat top area is heat treated, not the horn.