POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

made a rough and ready tailstock DRO for my SB. Not super necessary, but nice to have.

Jam plug to hold the readout bracket to the tailstock (goes in the oil dauber hole)
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12-32 set screw I had to single point after picking the wrong tap up (though I only had 12-24 in that drawer)
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Drill chuck ejects just before the quill bracket hits the tailstock and I lose perhaps 1/8" total travel. Fully extended pic is where the screw has just disengagedIMG20230202153943.jpgIMG20230202154017.jpgIMG20230202154054.jpg
 
I had a bunch of oddball pieces from an online auction. I cobbled together some what of a facing head for the G&L.
I should be able to face about 14”. I still need to grind a tool . The one that is in the holder is for a groove. If the cold weather breaks this weekend I will try it out
Martin
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Can't tell you how pumped I am to see those like that Erik. If only you'd seen how they looked when they came out of that bucket, they were NASTY!
 
Like many of us, I have a bunch of projects in various stages of completion (or waiting to start). I'm going to be "mill broaching" a keyway in a hand wheel for one of these projects which is currently in the gathering parts & pieces stage. I have all of the parts and am working out the details, but don't have all of the tooling yet. One of the pieces of tooling that I need (want?) is a round parallel to place under the hand wheel hub to support it while broaching the keyway with my mill. Yes, I could use a couple of regular parallels, but it struck me that a round parallel (with a hole in the middle) would give the best support.

Years ago (30?), I had the inner & outer races from a bearing that someone at work had either taken apart or had removed from service after it failed. I can't find that one (which I think may have been too small anyway), so I found a cheap surplus bearing on eBay to sacrifice. Using this "technique," I now have two round parallels, plus a handful of BB's:

25mm x 52mm Bearing.jpeg
The inner race is 25mm x 34mm x 15mm and the outer race is 44mm x 52mm x 15mm.

I used one of the 3 for $1 pin punches I got at Cabin Fever to start the process, but I wasn't brave (stupid?) enough to hold the bearing in my hand while prying at the cages with a HF screwdriver and tearing them apart with a large pair of HF needle nose pliers – I elected to hold the bearing in Aluminum soft jaws in my bench vise. For . The process was amazingly easy, so I may get a few more cheap bearings and make a set of round parallels with matching pairs of several diameters. Plus, I fully expect to find the other bearing's parts now that I got a replacement.
 
I used clamps to affix aluminum plates to the table for the milling machine. It probably goes without saying, but this is to prevent chips from going in the T-slots. Also, one can set down tools on the aluminum plates. I never set tools on the table.

We are starting several weeks of face milling plate, wherein the plate is held in the vise.

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I used clamps to affix aluminum plates to the table for the milling machine. It probably goes without saying, but this is to prevent chips from going in the T-slots. Also, one can set down tools on the aluminum plates. I never set tools on the table.

We are starting several weeks of face milling plate, wherein the plate is held in the vise.

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Maybe others with more knowledge can chime in here, but I think you will wind up with galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and cast iron table top.
 
Maybe others with more knowledge can chime in here, but I think you will wind up with galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and cast iron table top.
I think maybe with water-based coolant - Oil should be OK
With the water type, I know you can sometimes even get rust under the vise.
 
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