POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

What model C4? And where is it leaking from?

I have a '64 Fairlane with the 'green dot' C4 that is a leaker... I know where it is leaking from, just don't know how to fix it...

-Bear
well here's a big fat DOH! Turns out the leak was coming from a perished o-ring between the transmission housing and the dipstick tube. My friend replaced that and the leak has gone. He's also now an expert at all the different ways of sealing a transmission pan :)
 
well here's a big fat DOH! Turns out the leak was coming from a perished o-ring between the transmission housing and the dipstick tube. My friend replaced that and the leak has gone. He's also now an expert at all the different ways of sealing a transmission pan :)
That's what is called an educational experience. :)
 
Yup, always check the easy stuff first, and remember the effects of gravity. Many a supposed rear main leak turn out to be a valve cover, or valley cover/intake leak. Mike

well here's a big fat DOH! Turns out the leak was coming from a perished o-ring between the transmission housing and the dipstick tube.
 
Connected the electronics up to the motor and encoder shown in post 7402 for first machine integration! First test - does the RPM match the machine's? Answer: yep, pretty dang close! Is the sense of rotation correct, yep. Does the stepper motor turn the correct way - no! Easy fix, didn't account for the flipping of the motor and timing pulleys. Does it cut threads? Yes. Are they the right pitch? Nope. Seem to be off by a factor of about 2.4. A 10 TPI thread seems to cut as 24 TPI. Pretty pleased nonetheless. Homebrew ELS system, wrote my own software from scratch, made my own interface boards. It may take a while to sort out the bugs, but it's a very good day today. Time on project so far: 4 months.

Edit: Wrong gear box setting. Set to position 1A = 1:1 and upped the stepper motor current to 5A. Now cutting 10 TPI threads on a 10 TPI setting. Woohoo!
 
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. Many a supposed rear main leak turn out to be a valve cover, or valley cover/intake leak. Mike
Yep. Chevy was nice enough to put their distributor in the back of the engine so when the when the O ring degrades and oil runs down the back of the engine it is always assumed it is the rear main.
 
Yep. Chevy was nice enough to put their distributor in the back of the engine so when the when the O ring degrades and oil runs down the back of the engine it is always assumed it is the rear main.
Don't be so hard on chevy, their engines are solid design. French and germans do a lot worse, espacily with the plastic pipes for cooling in the middle of engines.
 
Yep. Chevy was nice enough to put their distributor in the back of the engine so when the when the O ring degrades and oil runs down the back of the engine it is always assumed it is the rear main.
Very true, but back in the day that most of those leaks occurred GM was using a two piece corded rear main seal. Those rear main seals did their share of leaking without any help from anywhere else.
I’m still a fan, GM all my life, current ride is a GMC with an 8.1 liter and 400k on original engine and Allison.
 
Decided to throw up a ceiling before I positioned my mill. Added more sheetrock and started a drop ceiling. Just me, myself and I and with good football coming on at noon I didn't get much done.



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I'm still giggling with this new ELS I made and used for the first time today on my G0752Z! Cut a 1/4"-40 TPI and a 3/4"-16 TPI thread by just touching a touchscreen display. Dead on for pitch. No messing with greasy gears. No levers to move, just a few (soft) button presses. Currently have 25 imperial and 21 metric threads along with 9 or so feed rates. Now I can do left hand threads - no idler mod needed. Cats pajamas, indeed!
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