Pm1340gt Lathe Basic Vfd Control Conversion Using The Stock Control Board And Switches

[mksj]

Minimum recommended standard enclosure dimensions are 12" wide, 14" tall and 8" deep. Having a clear front window is optional, but also additional cost and not needed. You normally do not need to view the VFD, but I recommend a hinged latched cover that is easily accessible. You need to order a metal back panel to mount the VFD and components. You also need a DIN rail to mount components that might require this mounting system. General recommendations, you may find something cheaper on eBay. A steel cabinet may not need any venting, preferably 12-14" wide, 16" tall and 8" deep should have enough volume. If active venting a fiber box is easier to cut holes in, either a hole saw or jig saw. Back plate material preference is galvanized steel > bare aluminum > painted steel/aluminum.

I have updated some of my recommendations for a 2-3 Hp VFD and have attached them. enclosures run anywhere from $75-150, the lower price range are for ones that come up on eBay, otherwise Automation Direct. If you do not want to use venting you should be fine with a 12 or 14x16x8 metal enclosure. At idle the VFD dissipates around 20W and under full load around 100W, so cooling should not be an issue. The VFD has its own internal fan which will move air through the box. The most important factor is that the VFD should have 3-4" of space above and below the VFD for air movement.

I have outlined the following two options as far as VFD's the first would be the WJ200-015SF in a separate VFD electrical enclosure. An external braking resistor (68 Ohm 500W) is required. I would have a power disconnect switch at the enclosure, and fusing is optional (but recommended in particular if the VFD is not on a dedicated circuit breaker). You need a minimum of a 20A 230VAC service, but 30A is what is recommended. Price wise you are looking at $300 for the WJ200 VFD and probably $300 for the enclosure/components. I would use the metal 16x12x8 or 16x14x8 enclosure with no venting/auxiliary fan. Wiring it up and programming the VFD is not that difficult with the documents posted (or provided by QMT), but these are recommendations and you need to be comfortable with wiring and compliance with all electrical codes. I usually recommend purchasing the WJ200 from QMT so if you have any service issues they can assist you. I have yet to see a WJ200 fail in the past 10 years and with 100's of units, but there is a vary small chance with any electrical device of an early component failure.

If you do not want a separate VFD enclosure, you can purchase a NEMA 4/12 (totally enclosed) VFD and mount it to the outer side of the headstock cabinet along with a braking resistor. The Teco Teco E510-202-H1FN4S-U is a totally sealed VFD with a power disconnect. It would need to be on a dedicated circuit as there is no provision for fusing. It would need an external braking resistor which would be mounted next to it. The VFD runs around $467 and the braking resistor (68 Ohm 500W) is around $60, so a bit easier and simpler than a full enclosure. I have not done an installation with this specific VFD model which is a new series, but I could provide them with the suggested wiring connections and programming parameters, which are different then the WJ200. A full enclosure is a better option if you need DC power supplies, additional breakers, etc.
https://www.wolfautomation.com/ac-drive-indoor-medium-duty-230v-2-hp/

 

[litewings]

I have the WJ200-015SF sitting on my desk as I type this, as well as the jog joystick and e-stop, necessary contacts and breaking resistor (50ohm, 500w). Used the attachment on this thread that had some of the part numbers. Need to get the 5k pot yet and some shielded cable. Machine will be on its own circuit and it is 20A at this time.

 

[Jason812]

I have a 1340GT on order and gathering parts for the VFD upgrade. Have most of the parts as listed in this thread and mksj's instructions. Still have to get an enclosure. The length of the VFD is making it a large box and not real cost friendly either. What has everyone been using?

I used a 14x12x8 enclosure, WJ200-015SF, and because I have a tendency to over kill everything, I used line reactors, which take up a lot of space. There was enough room to mount everything but it took some planning and a larger box would have made life a little easier. The box is mounted on the left side of the spindle cabinet 6 inches below the bottom of the drip pan and flush to the back. This should leave enough room to mount the pump oiler above the box when I get around to getting one.

 

[litewings]

I think I have everything I need now for the VFD install. Found a used enclosure with back plate, DIN rails, and switch for a good price. Lathe shipped today so hopefully I'll see it by the end of this week. I do have one question at the moment though. I'm looking at page 9 of the Basic VFD install attachment that show the wiring and switches for the jog joystick and estop switches. I see a two stage braking switch between input 5 and the second estop. Is this on the machine somewhere or do I need to get another switch?

 

[mksj]

Neither of those are on the machine. You will need to replace the current E-Stop with a lighted E-Stop (with 24V lamp as a power indicator if using a joystick jog) with two NC switch blocks, you need a 2 way jog joystick if you want the ability to jog in either direction. The braking rate can be either stage 1 which is typically set to ~1 second ( the VFD most have an external braking resistor) and stage 2 which I usually set to 3 seconds. You would use 1 stage for threading or turning to a shoulder, you must not spin the chuck at high speeds with 1 second braking (it will most likely result in an over-voltage buss error). I use a small toggle micro switch to set the braking rate.
Example of E-Stop, 24V lighted, requires an additional switch block. In my builds I use the IDEC AVLW series which are a bit nicer, and cost a bit more.

22mm Pushbutton: twist-to-release, red (PN# AR22V0L-01E3R) | AutomationDirect

AR22V0L-01E3R - Fuji Electric pushbutton, 22mm, twist-to-release, emergency stop, LED illuminated, (1) N.C. contact(s), plastic base, plastic bezel,...

www.automationdirect.com

Contact Block: replacement, (1) N.C. contact(s), for multiple AR series pushbuttons and switches (PN# AR9B291) | AutomationDirect

AR9B291 - Fuji Electric contact block, replacement, (1) N.C. contact(s). For use with multiple AR series pushbuttons and switches.

www.automationdirect.com

There are several different ways to wire a joystick jog, I have attached some different variations. The Joystick jog only comes with 2 NO switch blocks, the first two schematics require you buy 2 additional NC switch blocks. The third schematic uses logic diodes, these are typically 1A 400V like a 1N4004. Be mindful not to mix the machine 24VAC controls with the VFD 24VDC low level input controls.

 

[litewings]

Thanks for the info. I have the ECX-3510 and ECX-1040-2. My E-stop is the GCX-1226-24L with an additional ECX-1030. Also have the braking resistor. I have several toggle switches on hand so should be good on parts and materials.

 

[Old Mud]

Thanks guys, I may take you up on the offer one of these days. I gave up eating beef about 45 years ago but I am game for anything else. I hope to be updating this post and adding some more details along with using an alternate Nema 4/12 VFD design that would not need an enclosure. The VFDs do add a lot of flexibility to the machines and 3 phase motors are a lot less problematic then single phase.
Mark

Well Mark i don't even have a vfd but after reading this whole thread (That i don't understand) If you ever visit Maine I will buy you a Lobster dinner !!
It's a pleasure to see someone giving so freely of their expertise.

 

[daveog]

I'm curious if anyone has done the basic setup using the Teco E510-202-H1FN4S-U yet?

 

[mksj]

Not that I am aware of, but I can give you some help if you are interested. The major difference beyond the programming parameters is that there is a separate inputs for the Forward JOG and Reverse JOG. This actually makes it easier to wire up than the WJ200 which requires a JOG input to be activated (sets the speed) and also the forward or reverse input.

 

[daveog]

I may go that route. I’ve always done VFDs in enclosures and I like the idea of the stand-alone concept. The only downside I can think of is having to have the resistor separate and exposed.