PM-1440GT Motor

I just learned something reset all breakers, the light on the panel is ON. When i press JOG button it made a noise, but circuit breaker doesn't bound but I have reset circuit break on the panel. There is something shorted somewhere.
 
Sounds like the motor is toast- is the lathe still in warranty?
 
Brand new lathe it ran after 1 month. I talked to PM Tech they said maybe capacitor failure (i hope), but I have to test it.
 
Motors run on smoke and bad smells, if you let that out they stop working.
PM will take care of it and i would hope for a replacement motor not just a cap.
take this opportunity to install a 3 ph motor and a VFD.
 
I tested Capacitor is reading 1.1ohm PM is sending a new capacitor. I hope this will fix it.
I like to convert it to 3ph/vfd but i have no clue where to start it.
 
May just be a bad cap, but if it happens again the internal centrifugal switch is not working correctly- that switch is supposed to
disconnect the start cap when the motor gets up to speed- if it doesn't, the capacitor can overheat and fail. Let us know.

You can (carefully) measure the AC voltage at the cap when the motor is at speed. It should be 0 if the switch is working
If the cap has no bleeder resistor the voltage may fall slowly to 0- several minutes in some cases
Use of clip leads is recommended for safety when doing this
 
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markba633csi said:
May just be a bad cap, but if it happens again the internal centrifugal switch is not working correctly- that switch is supposed to
disconnect the start cap when the motor gets up to speed- if it doesn't, the capacitor can overheat and fail. Let us know.

You can (carefully) measure the AC voltage at the cap when the motor is at speed. It should be 0 if the switch is working
If the cap has no bleeder resistor the voltage may fall slowly- several minutes in some cases
Use of clip leads is recommended for safety when doing this
Click to expand...
Thank you and will keep you all posted.
Here is my question: how hot when is running? I noticed the motor is running way too hot before cap failed.
 
Hard to tell if the motor heat was indicating a winding problem or if the internal switch is in fact bad
That's why measuring the cap voltage right after replacement would be a good idea
 
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I wasn't planning to take the motor off, but PM is sending Centrifugal Switch and Contact (CSC). I hope will get CAP / CSC tomorrow to get the lathe up and run again, I hope. The PM support is awesome and wants to do it right for the customer all I can tell you.

I was struggling almost an hour off the frame just one bolt to take the bottom left inside near the fan motor. Is there a better way to go back?
 
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