Pm 1228-vf-lb Lathe Preparations

Ron, the powerfeed is the one Grizzly sells for that mill. The neutral position on the lever does not disconnect it completely. You can still feel the magnets in the motor as though there are .0005" detents.
 
D1-4 chucks are easier to come by, and you have three less cam-locks to operate every time you change chucks.

The only advantage of a D1-5 is you could have a larger bore... except if you look at a sampling of D1-5 vs D1-4, you don't see a lot of difference.

Sure, D1-5 might be more rigid, but I think on the typical 12-14" chinese lathe, the chuck mounting is not the limiting factor.
 
I dunno; I'm finding that D1-5 and D1-6 chucks are far more common at practically the same price, and that purpose-built D1-4 4-jaw chucks are actually fairly expensive, at ~200$ minimum, whereas your plain-back versions are over 50$ less. My plan is the plain-back route with an older, quality American chuck and mate it to a lowly Chinese D1-4 backplate (which are ~50$ for most examples). Part of me wonders if the spindle plate on the PM1228 can simply be changed to a D1-5 version.

TCB
 
TCB, how much damage was done to your lathe? I'm guessing the gear access door was bent some and maybe the back splash. Did the steady and follow rests stay inside?

I found a 4-jaw D1-4 at Grizzly for $163. There are others that are $600 and up. Way up.

D1-4 is probably plenty sufficient for a 12" lathe.

I've gotten to look the lathe over some this afternoon. The more I see, the more I like. I really like that the screws that loosen and tighten the compound rotation are on the top. They were under the ring on my Grizzly, and I had to grind down a 10mm wrench to even get to them.

Matt didn't send me dimensions from the chip pan. It is supposed to get here tomorrow. I guess I start the bench top then. I hope UPS doesn't have me last on their route.

The casting quality is miserable. The inside surfaces are gritty looking and the square holes on the bottom of the feet are very ragged. What's milled it terrific, but the rest is pretty rough.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info on the Griz Mill Franko. Does Grizzly ever have coupons or discounts on their mills?
I am planning on getting something next month for sure but hate paying that much for a small mill.
I've been looking around at different ones and got a line on a Bridgeport J Head but it might be more than I need or can fit in the shop.
 
My mill and lathe arrived today. The driver had no issues with the mill, but I thought
he was going to launch the lathe A over T. His lift gate was not large enough, and the
depot had loaded it tailstock first, so he had the heavy end dangling as it came down.

He did however know what he was doing and did get it on the ground safely. The
lathe did shift in the crate during transit, and the lower pallet did not support the
upper pallet very well. The driver noted both on the paperwork before I signed off.
The lathe it self appears undamaged, except the spindle pass through cover is MIA.
I am not sure if the carriage wheel is damaged (first lathe), but it has about half an
inch of play, sliding in allows it to engage and move carriage. When slide out it free wheels.

I did measure the chip pan. I did miss one measurement on the sketch, which is likely
more helpful than the distance from the TS side of the chip pan to the first hole on that
side. The missing measurement is the distance between the inner holes, 35.5"

IMAG0018.jpg
 
Thanks, Dan. I appreciate it. Now I can start working on the bench top tomorrow!

The feed wheel disengages when you pull it out. It is supposed to.

Tell me what you think about the manual. It seems skimpy on the controls, to me. On the break-in and test, it skips testing it in reverse. It says to run it forward twice.

It doesn't really make clear what the order of procedure to turn it on and off is.
 
Dan_Austin said:
I did measure the chip pan. I did miss one measurement on the sketch, which is likely
more helpful than the distance from the TS side of the chip pan to the first hole on that
side. The missing measurement is the distance between the inner holes, 35.5"
Click to expand...

The manual has the exact dimensions between all the holes, so I don't need them.
Are your measurements from the center of the holes to the outside edge of the pan or to the inner lip? I need it to the outside edge.
I also need the length and width of the pan.
 
Thanks for the info on the feed wheel.

I put the pan on the stand to make measuring easier and went from the back and side edges.
The outside dimensions are 59" X 22.125"

The manual does seem a tad light, but it is worlds better than what came with the PM-25.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top