Pm 1228-vf-lb Lathe Preparations

barnbwt said:
Franko, how wide was your crate? I'm REALLY hoping I can fit the boxed item alongside the car for the duration of the storms, or that the stand/machine are easy to assemble quickly. If only one can fit, the lathe is gonna have to brave the elements, and that box looks a good bit wider :(

TCB
Click to expand...

TCB, the crate is 27.5" wide, 25.5" high and 61.25" long. The pallet is 40" wide.

I hate that I'm having to keep it boxed up. I want to look at it.

I can't do too much with it until the rain stops. I don't want to clean off the oil until I can put it in out of the weather.
I've considered renting a pallet jack so I can move it inside the shop. It wouldn't go through the door with the pallet attached when he delivered it. I can clean the accessories and the chuck and tailstock. I don't see why I couldn't plug it in and do the test runs, that's about it until the rain stops.
 
UPS has not updated my tracking status since Friday morning in Ohio, but if their estimate is accurate
I might be able to get the pan measured tomorrow afternoon...
 
Dan_Austin said:
UPS has not updated my tracking status since Friday morning in Ohio, but if their estimate is accurate
I might be able to get the pan measured tomorrow afternoon...
Click to expand...

That would be great, Dan. (Assuming they send a pan with your PM1228) They will if you ordered the stand.

Here's what I need to know. It doesn’t need to be exact. Accuracy to a 10th of an inch will suffice, so you can just estimate the center of the hole.
Don’t need a drawing unless you want to. Just label dimensions A, B to front, B to back, and C.

A. length and width of the chip pan.

B. to front. Distance from the center of the mounting holes to the front of the pan.
B. to back. Distance from the center of the mounting holes to the back of the pan.

C. distance from the center of the right (closest to the edge) tailstock mounting hole to the right edge of the chip pan.
The holes closest together are the tailstock end.
 
D1-4 (what I have) is 3 pin. D1-5 is 6 pin I believe.
 
Franko, I've got about 5' of 1/4"x4 CRS drop that I could cut what you need (if the 4" is wide enough). Actually, you're welcome to all of it if it works for you. Also have a 12" Starrett level you're welcome to borrow.


Stan,
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Franko
Your new lathe looks great. You will love the D14 spindle mount particularly if you buy a 4J or a collet chuck. You might even use the 4J if it is quick and easy to mount. The quick change GB is also great . No change gears! When you bought the 3MT to 2 MT adapter for your tailstock did to get one long enough that it will eject. I had to get a 4MT to 3MT for mine and it is too short and now stuck in the tail stock taper. When I get it out I am going to have to extend it somehow.
My Sieg also came with an old style 4 place rotating toolpost. It also had a mounting post with a larger flange at the bottom like yours. You are very lucky that yours screwed out. With mine I had to drill out a roll pin from the back side then press the post out backwards.
I had to completely remove the compound to do it. Do you know if the hole size in your compound is the right size for an AXA Toolpost? My BXA has a 16mm or 5/8"post but I don't know the size of the hole in a AXA. You might be lucky again!

When I was looking at the picture of your new lathe I was wondering what it would look like in a REAL SIEG RED. Just imagine you would not have had to repaint your nice new Red Tool Box:laughing:

Enjoy playing with your new toy
Ron
 
Thanks Ron. I'm anxious to get this thing spinning.
There are a few gears to change, even with a change box. I think I saw 3 or 4 gears in the greasy bag.

Yes, I kept the tool post from the AXA I sold, and it has the same threads. Matt said he had them made that way so they would take the QCTPs he sells.

I don't know about the length of the morse tapers for the tailstock. It it is too long, I'll cut it down. If it is too short I'll drill and tap a hole for a bolt so it will eject. I had to customize a couple tapers for my Grizzly tailstock.

My time to fiddle with it has been limited by the heavy rain we are suffering.

I had a lively discussion on a thread I started about machinist's levels. As a result, I decided to order a Starrett 98 series 8" level and some plastic shim stock from Little Machine Shop and some brass shim stock on eBay.
 
ronboult said:
I had to get a 4MT to 3MT for mine and it is too short and now stuck in the tail stock taper. When I get it out I am going to have to extend it somehow.
Ron
Click to expand...

I lucked out, Ron. Both the Morse tapers I got for the drill chuck and the adapter for the live center are too long by about 8 mm. Easy to fix.

I think one of my morse tapers is threaded on the small end. I can only assume that is so you can screw a bolt to tune it to right length. I don't know how hard MTs are. You might be able to drill and tap for a bolt, or maybe just drill and press in a dowel to the right length so it will eject.
 
I solved the mystery of the chuck. The manual says it is a D1-5. The estimate sheet said it was a D1-4.

How to tell the difference? Easy. Google D1 chuck specifications.

A D1-5 has six .75" diameter pins.
A D1-4 has three .625" diameter pins.

Mine is a D1-4 as advertised.

Here is a link and graphic if anyone is interested.
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html

D1 chuck specs.png
 
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