Pm 1228-vf-lb Lathe Preparations

I've used etching primer on aluminum, Brav. I never thought of using it on a painted surface. I'll have to read the label.
I don't mind spraying a primer if I thought it would improve the adhesion of the new paint.
 
After some pondering, I decided to remove the drawer guides and paint everything. I decided it would be no more effort to drill out the pop rivets than it would to tape around the guides. They are all just secured with one rivet each. The guides in the base are pop riveted, but the drawer guides have hollow rivets. They lock in with tabs and would probably work without rivets, but I think that pop rivets won't stick out enough in the drawers to make any problems.

I'm considering painting the insides of the drawers with truck bed spray paint. It is tough as nails, won't scratch or chip and will provide a non-slip surface inside the drawers. Plus, it cures very hard and fast. Paint can take months.
 
After some pondering, I decided to remove the drawer guides and paint everything. I decided it would be no more effort to drill out the pop rivets than it would to tape around the guides. They are all just secured with one rivet each. The guides in the base are pop riveted, but the drawer guides have hollow rivets. They lock in with tabs and would probably work without rivets, but I think that pop rivets won't stick out enough in the drawers to make any problems.

I'm considering painting the insides of the drawers with truck bed spray paint. It is tough as nails, won't scratch or chip and will provide a non-slip surface inside the drawers. Plus, it cures very hard and fast. Paint can take months.
If it is the pop rivet head that might give problems, use countersunk head pop's. If the tail, use the shortest rivet that will hold, set rivet with gun but do not snap mandrel off. Open riveter handles and slip off the mandrel then tap mandrel through rivet. Peen as necessary. P.S. I like the idea of the truck bed spray.
John.
 
The case guides are standard pop rivets like you see everywhere. Guides on the drawers are attached with tabs and one dome head hollow rivet that is curled on the opposite side. The only rivet curling tools I have are totally manual and would take three hands to set them, or fairly expensive hollow rivet setter. I don't think 5/32 x /1/8 rivets will cause any obstruction in the drawers.

I power wire brushed the stationary wheels trolly and all the big welded framework. I wiped everything down with low odor paint thinner, primed them and painted them this afternoon.

I pulled all the drawer glides out of the box and washed it inside and out with soapy water. A sheet of 220 grit sandpaper is quartered and one is mounted in PC palm sander. Sanding begins tomorrow afternoon, after my golf tournament.

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Looking good Franko, I always feel better when I do it the "right way". If I don't then every time I look at the job I think to myself, I wish I had... This puppy is going to be a beautiful home for your new lathe!
 
Thanks, Brave. After all the work I put in on the wheels, half-assing the box paint started getting to me.

I stopped by the supplier after my golf tournament this morning and picked up a box of 100 - 5/23 x 1/8 rivets to reattach the drawer slides. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to summon the gumption to sand and paint this afternoon.
 
The box and my nose hairs are gray now.

There was a little more breeze than I expected, so I had to make a breeze screen by bungieing a plastic tarp to my little gantry crane.

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I opted not to spray the back of inside the box so as not to gum up the drawer locking mechanism. The sides where the ball-bearing drawer runners go and the inside bottom have a single light coat, doubled up about 6-inches in from the front.

I cut some pieces of cardboard to protect the wheels from over-spray. The box has 2 coats of paint and I think that's probably enough. It took 2 1/2 cans. It is supposed to keep getting warmer and be sunny the rest of the week, so I'll let the sun bake and cure the paint for as long as I can.

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