Picked up two lathes in central Florida.

[Doc Hoy]

Thanks for the fast wink back, Aaron. I will look for those gears. I found gear holders but not gears, but I did not really look hard yet. I should have the half nut today by 10:00 pm. I am picking up a motor this morning.

BTW, I hope you are not negatively impacted by Helene. We are in Naples and had wind and rain, no flooding at our house, but downtown had scattered surge damage. We lost a flower pot.

 

[Doc Hoy]

Question:

• Has anyone had any success straightening either the feed screw or the cross feed screw? Both of mine are slightly bent and I would like to avoid replacing them. I could just buy replacements but for two problems. a) I am not certain that something I would buy, sight unseen would be much better than the screws I already have. b) Webster's Dictionary has a photo of me in the listing for "tightwad".

 

[Doc Hoy]

Made progress with restoration. The apron has been reassembled with new half nut. Gibbs are great. Surfaces in good condition. Everything runs smoothly. Adjusts nice and tight. Only problem is the two feed screws mentioned above.

 

[Aaron_W]

Coincidently Mr Pete has started a series fixing up an Atlas 618 on his youtube channel.

Other than your lead screw issues it is cleaning up nicely.

Thanks for the fast wink back, Aaron. I will look for those gears. I found gear holders but not gears, but I did not really look hard yet. I should have the half nut today by 10:00 pm. I am picking up a motor this morning.

BTW, I hope you are not negatively impacted by Helene. We are in Naples and had wind and rain, no flooding at our house, but downtown had scattered surge damage. We lost a flower pot.

Considering that I'm on the West Coast I'm more concerned with fires than hurricanes.

Question:

• Has anyone had any success straightening either the feed screw or the cross feed screw? Both of mine are slightly bent and I would like to avoid replacing them. I could just buy replacements but for two problems. a) I am not certain that something I would buy, sight unseen would be much better than the screws I already have. b) Webster's Dictionary has a photo of me in the listing for "tightwad".

I've seen people talk about it, but not aware of any success. The lead screws on these lathes are pretty basic though, so if it can be done they are probably a good candidate to try. I think new lead screws are available from Clausing, but no idea on the cost.

 

[Weldingrod1]

I'd go for straightening. Measure it. And figure out a way to bend it under control, with an aluminum or plastic pad on the center to spread the load.

Maybe have a dial indicator for how far you move it, so you can tell how much permanent change you get (when you work up to that much bend!)

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

 

[Doc Hoy]

I'd go for straightening. Measure it. And figure out a way to bend it under control, with an aluminum or plastic pad on the center to spread the load.

Maybe have a dial indicator for how far you move it, so you can tell how much permanent change you get (when you work up to that much bend!)

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

I agree with the technique. A couple things in my mind.
1. I can see the bend in the feed screw by turning the screw and watching the deflection (location and amount). Dial indicator is a goof idea.
2. Would try to bend it back to true with wood blocks and clamps (or a clamp) while the screw is still in the machine.
3.Bend in the cross feed screw is more difficult to see but might be easier to straighten. I am thinking to take it apart again and chuck it in a lathe and watch the bend while it is in the lathe.

 

[Weldingrod1]

I'd take it out to straighten!

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[Doc Hoy]

Breaking the fittings was a concern but when I tested the feed screw for the force required to get it to deflect, it appeared the I would bot be in danger of snapping the fittings. I used the setup in the photo. Original error was about .180 between 0 degrees and 180 degrees of rotation of the screw. I deflected the screw in the opposite direction of the error by about 5/8 inch with the clamp. I clamped it about five times and the last time I let it sit for about ten minutes. Total error from 0 degrees to 180 degrees in now about .065. The half nut no longer hangs up on the feed screw with the half nut disengaged. Feed screw works smoothly if a little tight with the half nut engaged.

 

[Weldingrod1]

Nice strategy there,with padding and deflection control!

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[Doc Hoy]

Weldingrod,

It is far from perfect. (Question at the end of this post for you or others). But if I go after it again, I will take the screw out of the machine. I am just not comfortable with putting enough force on the screw when the only support is two white metal bushings.

Here is the question: In a perfect Atlas 618 world ( which may be far from perfect), should the disengaged half nut remain completely out of contact with the feed screw for the entire length of travel of the apron? When I move the apron, I can hear the half nut clicking on the lead screw for about the last 33% or travel (extreme right). Not bad but I can hear it.