That is a colossal waste of loctite. Anyway, the resident taper should be quite sufficient in holding the chuck. All the loctite does is increase runout.
success! thanks jwmelvin, the bolt and pipe method popped it right out. you can see I tried a home made wedge made from an old open end wrench last night and all I did was bung up the arbor, which is really soft steel. I went to ACE this am and none of their bolts fit the drawbar thread either. I believe it is a 9mm as 8 was too small and 10 too big. no one carries 9 around here. I drilled and tapped it for an SAE bolt and it worked great.
I believe the hole in the chuck is a #6 Jacobs Taper. I measured the length of the chuck end of the old arbor at .9780 in, the large end dia at .6763 in and the small end dia at .6260 in.
according to the charts online, J6 is 1.00 in length, .6760 dia large end and .6241 dia small end. now to find the right arbor. if R8 to J6 isn't available I guess MT2 to J6 will do. I have an R8 to MT2 adaptor if I have to use it.
thanks everyone, I'm grateful for all the responses and the great suggestions.
A quick google search finds many R8 to JT6 arbors. Prices range from $59 at McMaster down to $12.15 with free shipping on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/153572120528)
wow, quick delivery from out west. surprising these days from USPS and ebay. I cleaned the male and female tapers with denatured alcohol then put the arbor in the freezer for a couple of hours and left the chuck on my concrete stoop in the hot florida sun as I don't like to put things with bearings and grease in the oven. put them together and gave it a sharp rap with my lead mallet. fit was perfect.
If the Jacobs taper for the arbor was correct, just a sharp rap with your mallet should have been all that was necessary. It also prevents Florida humidity from creating condensation on you shiny new arbor. It will attract rust soon enough, no sense encouraging it!
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